canyonwalker: Sullivan, a male golden eagle at UC Davis Raptor Center (Golden Eagle)
canyonwalker ([personal profile] canyonwalker) wrote2021-08-05 07:32 am

Chief Joseph Days. Bro Country Music.

Northwest Return Travelog #12
Joseph, OR - Sat, 31 Jul 2021. 3:30pm.

On our way back to our hotel in Clarkston we stopped in Joseph, Oregon to see Chief Joseph Days... or at least what's left of it. "Chief Joseph Days" is a week long western fair "Always the last week of July" as signs in Joseph proclaim. Well, today's the last day of July, so yeah... we're seeing the tail end of it.

There was more going on this morning when we passed through town on our way to the Wallowa Lake Tram. Streets were blocked off, and people were assembling for a show. There had been a big parade earlier in the day or earlier in the week. That we could tell because... well, literally because of the sheer amount of horse shit on the main road. By this afternoon at least that mess had been cleaned up.

We chose not to stop for the fair this morning as we wanted to make sure we'd have enough time for our hike. We didn't want to be on the mountain past 2pm as the weather forecast warned of afternoon thunderstorms. Already thunderstorms are looking likely, so that was a good call. Though at 2:30 when we got back to town the show was already winding down. It looks like there had been a big street fair with lots of vendors. Now only a dozen or 15 are still here, and the proprietors look wrecked. We parked to tour what's left of the show for a while.

Chief Joseph

Statue of Nez Perce Chief Joseph in Joseph, OR (Jul 2021)Chief Joseph was a leader of the Nez Perce people who once made this area, around Wallowa Lake, their home. He was the tribe's chief when it came into conflict with white settlers in the 1870s. Joseph negotiated a treaty with the US government for his people to remain on their land, but in 1877 the US reneged. The military came to escort them off, and war was declared.

The Nez Perce fought a war that became one for military history books. Though the band numbered fewer than 800 they waged a fighting retreat of over 1,000 miles as they sought refuge first in Montana and then in Canada. The US Army stopped them short of Canada. Joseph surrendered, negotiating terms for his people to move to a reservation in Idaho. The US government promptly reneged on that, too, and sent them to a military prison in Oklahoma where most died from disease.

Joseph survived and became a statesman, advocating for native peoples to Congress in Washington, DC. Military leaders respected him for his military prowess. Civilian leaders respected him for his intelligent philosophy. But they all continued making promises and then breaking them. Not the most shining chapter in US history.

Here in the town named for Chief Joseph there's not a heck of a lot about him. The statue in the picture has a few quotes from him on plaques at its base. Most of what I've written here is my distant knowledge from US history classes years ago bolstered by a quick visit to Wikipedia. The week long fair bears his name but aside from that seems to be an ordinary county fair, western US style. Little we saw at the fair was related to the Nez Perce or Chief Joseph except in name.

"Bro Country" Music

As for the street fair.... I think I was most impressed by the country-western singer working hard all afternoon in a long-sleeve shirt and denim jeans. It was hot! And at least while we were there he had pretty much zero audience. I didn't particularly like his songs— they were "bro country", like a song about all the ways a dog is better than a woman— though I admire his vocal talent. And his hard work in the summer heat.

I walked up to thank the musician as he and his crew were shutting down for the day. I know entertainers live for the audience; that's why I wanted to show my appreciation. He was grateful. He shook my hand enthusiastically as his manager came over and insisted I take a card.

I carefully didn't say that I liked his songs. I complimented him on his voice, his playing, and him busting his butt in the heat. He was playing for 2 or 3 semi-interested people at a time. I've seen less talented musicians perform for crowds of 22,000. But I'm not going to buy an album of songs about how a dog is better than a woman because it doesn't fuss if you put your boots on the table.


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