Dec. 25th, 2021

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Oahu travelog #9
Waikiki, HI - Fri, 24 Dec 2021, 6:30pm

We got off to a later start this morning than I'd hoped for (dang jet lag) but we made a pretty full day of it. We hiked two waterfall trails and drove a loop around the windward (east) side of Oahu, doing a bit of sightseeing along the way.

First up was visiting Manoa Falls on the outskirts of Honolulu past the university district. A steep and often rocky trail ascends 800 feet to a viewing area at the bottom of the approximately 200' tall falls. It rained (lightly) off and on while we were on the trip, but we didn't care much. We were properly dressed with sturdy boots, rain jackets (though I never actually donned mine) and hats.

I'm not posting pics from the falls in this blog because I want to get this blog posted. The main reason I generally fall behind several days blogging about trips is the time to takes to touch up pictures for sharing. I'll come back around with pics in a separate blog in a few (hopefully!) days. Edit: blogs posted & reordered chronologically (mostly).

After the hike we were hungry for lunch. We found a well-reviewed bakery cafe called Waioli back nearer to the university. Hawk got mochi waffles, one of their specialties, while I got a cheeseburger— also a special, though apparently less special. Hawk also bought a muffin/scone and we shared a loaf of challah that was another "holiday" special. I quote holiday because it's done in a Jewish holiday style, but this is not a Jewish holiday. It's a Christian holiday (Christmas Eve). I should probably also quote style because the flavor wasn't really even challah. It was... challah-ish?

After lunch we drove up over the mountains, stopping briefly at the Pali Scenic Overlook. It's an interesting view from here, looking out at mountains that are almost sheer vertical, with sides undulating like drapes.

Next up was a hike at Likeke Falls. This trail wasn't as steep as the Manoa Falls trail but it was extremely muddy. Our feet slipped in the squishy mud, often more like really wet clay, several times. We both managed to avoid falling, though. Yay? And the reward was a beautiful, two tier falls of about 50'.

The two uphill hikes sapped a lot of our strength for the day. We could have turned around at that point and driven back to Waikiki, perhaps to lounge at the pool or soak in the hot tub for the afternoon. Instead we chose to make a loop around the windward side of the island. We've got a convertible, so why not. Also, it turns out this convertible can raise or lower its top in about 6 seconds— which is good because we had to do it several times as we drove in and out rain.

As we completed our driving loop home I realized that Hawaii has even more interstate highways than I thought. First, yes, Hawaii has interstate highways. They don't really go inter state, of course; the next nearest state is over 2,000 miles away across the ocean. Heck, they don't even go inter-island. It's tens of miles across open water. But Hawaii's island of Oahu has highways that are funded through the interstate highway system.

For years I thought there was one interstate in Hawaii: H1. When I looked at a map yesterday I saw there were three: H1, H2, H3. Today we discovered there's a fourth, H201. In fact we drove all four interstate highways in the span of about 15 minutes. Crazy!

Well, now we're back at the hotel. We've washed up from a tiring (and muddy) day of hiking. We're going to go down for dinner soon. We're planning traditional Jewish Christmas Eve dinner. Y'know, Chinese.

canyonwalker: Uh-oh, physics (Wile E. Coyote)
Oahu travelog #10
Waikiki, HI - Sat, 25 Dec 2021, 8am

Last night before going to bed I browsed one my favorite news sources for data on the spread of Coronavirus, The New York Times' "Covid in the U.S." page. I went to see how fast case rates are rising across the country and reassure myself that being here in Hawaii remains a relatively safe choice; Hawaii has long been one of the best, if not the best state, for low rates. Its location 2,500 miles across the ocean from the next nearest state gives it a lot of control over screening out visitors who'd arrive infected and spread Covid.

Well, the data showed the national surge continuing to surge. Last Tuesday I objected to the alarmingly popular boast "It's not like March 2020". It was already worse; now it's even... worse-r. Our rates may eclipse last winter's surge... which is really alarming because now we have the vaccine in widespread availability and (yet only) 62% of the entire population fully vaccinated. But while there's a nationwide surge going on Hawaii is getting hit especially hard this time. The new case rate has increased nearly 10x in the past 2 weeks. Hawaii now has higher than the nationwide average case rate, 75 average daily cases per 100k population vs. 59 (source: Times link above, retrieved 25 Dec 2021). Its rate is more than 2x that of California's 33.

The county level figures are even more stark. Honolulu County, which encompasses the island of Oahu, has the highest case rate in the state, 97. Our home county of Santa Clara, meanwhile, remains healthier than California as a whole, with a rate of 20. So while we thought we were going from one safe place to an even safer place on this trip, it turns out we're at a higher risk here than home. A 5x higher risk.

Update: Based on these surging rates we decided to stop eating at indoors restaurants on this trip. We will only do real-outdoors dining at restaurants or buy groceries to take back to our room.

Update 2: A week later, several days after we got home, the surge has continued to worsen. As of Jan. 2 Hawaii is at 163 statewide with Honolulu at 189. Both rates have roughly doubled what I originally wrote this blog. 😳 The nationwide rate has increased, as well, to 121. We're glad we're at home now, where it's easy to limit how often we're within 6' of strangers.

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Oahu travelog #11
Waikiki Beach, HI - Sat, 25 Dec 2021, 11:30am

We've been here in Waikiki since late afternoon Wednesday and finally we've gone to spend some time on the beach. Not just enjoying the views from our balcony, not driving around the island and seeing other beaches, but actually walking across the street to Waikiki Beach.

Getting ready to chill on Waikiki Beach (Dec 2021)

We set up our chairs (bottom center) right above the water's reach on the sand. The towers behind them are the Hyatt Regency. Our room is in the one on the left.

Walking on Waikiki Beach (Dec 2021)

As you can see in these pictures the beach was already crowded when we arrived just before 10. Note to self: get out here earlier tomorrow!

Walking on Waikiki Beach (Dec 2021)

Plus, the sun will be a bit less intense in the morning. I slathered up with a mix of sunscreens from SPF 8 to 30. Hawk used lotion, too, but wasn't as worried about how soon she'd need to reapply. Hawk's desert-dweller ancestors gave her genes not to have to worry too much about sun. For my northern European ancestors, though, sunburn was god's way of telling them to get the hell back in the pub.

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Oahu travelog #12
Waikiki, HI - Sat, 25 Dec 2021, 8:30pm

I didn't even occur to me when I posted my previous blog about visiting Waikiki Beach this morning that it's Christmas. Well, that's the way I like it, honestly. I don't celebrate Christmas. I don't begrudge the celebration of those who do, but I don't enjoy feeling like I'm being dragged along for the ride for a whole month. So it was refreshing not to see too many reminders about Christmas today while we've been enjoying our tropical beach vacation in Hawaii.

Cocktail on the pool deck (Dec 2021)

After spending time on the beach this morning we came back to the hotel to spend time at the pool. Or, more specifically, at the pool deck. The pool is small, and we didn't feel like swimming. We grabbed lounge chairs in the sun and waited for drink service to come around. Hawk got a virgin piña colada while I ordered the hotel's specialty passion fruit-rum drink. I then spilled most of my drink thanks to the beveled edge of the tables next to the lounge chairs. Well, that was over $20 literally down the drain. 😓

We thought about ordering lunch at the pool. The poolside menu was small, though, like only 4-5 mains. And they were over $20 and I didn't want to flush another $20 down the drain by knocking over my sandwich or anything. 😅 So we decided to get lunch while exploring Waikiki.

We walked north up the main drag for a bit, stopping in at various souvenir shops to browse gifts and whatnot. An odd thing about Honolulu is that one company, The ABC Store, has a virtual monopoly on all gift and convenience stores in this area. They are literally 2-3 of their stores on every block and there is no competition.

We ate lunch at a Mexican restaurant connected to a food hall. The restos inside the food hall looked kind gross, but we decided to give this one a chance since the door checker— checking vaccine cards for everyone who entered!— assured us it was fresh. The other selling point to us was that the Mexican cantina had outdoor dining. Even with the vax requirement we felt safer outdoors because of Honolulu's recent Covid spike (blog from this morning). The checker's rec turned out solid recommendation because while the cantina's menu was narrow and the food was simple, it was fresh and well made.

After lunch we continued our walk around the tourist/shopping district. Hawk got a shave ice for dessert; I got a fancy-ass milkshake (different shops). We walked back via the beach.

We chilled for an hour or two back in the room then went out for a walk around town again. This time we headed south.

Kuhio Beach, Honolulu (Dec 2021)

We walked via the beach again. ...Actually, we walked in the water most of the way. Immediately to the south of Waikiki Beach is Kuhio Beach, which has several breakwaters protecting it. These not only keep even the west shore's modest wave action down to practically nil but also keep the water warmer. It's almost bathtub warm here. Maybe we'll drag our beach chairs down here tomorrow.

We washed our feet off after a few blocks, put our sandals back on, and continued south on the promenade. We went as far as a WWI memorial swim club that's been abandoned and crumbling from disrepair for, like, 65 years (WHY?) then turned around and headed back north via the Kapi'olani park.

The very chill Kapi'olani park with Diamond Head in the background (Dec 2021)

After spending hours at various times of the day on the crowded beaches and boulevards of Waikiki it was such a tonic to spend time in this totally chill park. Grant, part of the reason it was so chill is that so few people were here. And those who were were just... relaxing... in ways that had nothing to do with the beach resort mecca just 2 blocks away. One child was catching footballs thrown by his dad. A few were walking dogs. Several people were just spread out on the ground, resting or napping. Birds poked in the grass for worms and chittered from the trees.

Soon enough we were back onto the busy boulevard with people coming from and going to the beaches. We stopped in one of the ubiquitous ABC Stores and bought take-home dinner. For me it was two packages of sushi; for Hawk a dish of pasta salad. Again, we are trying to avoid restaurant indoors dining after seeing the huge Covid spike in Honolulu this morning. We ate our take-away food on our balcony overlooking the beach and the city as the sun set.

Happy December 25.

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