canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Sunday we made a day trip out to Zim Zim Falls. It's a fairly tall waterfalls in a fairly remote corner of the Bay Area. It's in Napa County, but not the part you think of when you hear "Napa Valley". There are no wineries, tasting rooms, or hot-spring lodges nearby. It 's out in the wilderness.

We rolled out of our garage just before 9:30am, having slept in a bit and then waited to see if we were up for a big day outdoors. It seemed like we were, so we filled water in our packs, stuffed changes of clothes in a sack, and set out for the day.

Getting to Zim Zim always feels like a bit of adventure in and of itself. The past few times I've thought of the road trip as having two parts, but this weekend I've realized it's really three.

Part One is zooming along interstate highways up to Cordelia, California. If you're not a local you might be wondering, "Where?" It's the small town on the edge of the Bay Area where I-680 ends at I-80— or where 680 begins as it forks off from 80, depending on your perspective. For us it's also a typical spot for an early lunch break on this trip. There's a Del Taco here, and eating at Del Taco is one of our guilty pleasures. We only get to do it on road trips, though. This one 73 miles away is practically the closest one to us!

Part Two of the trip is driving country roads up through Solano and Napa Counties. There are wineries back here, unlike what I said in the first paragraph, above. But the wineries are in the southern part of the leg of this trip, in the Suisun Valley geographical area.

Part Three of the drive starts as we turn off of Route 128 onto Berryessa Knoxville Road. In the past I've thought of this as an extension of part 2, but then each time I've gotten frustrated at how long it takes. Sunday I measured it. It's 24 miles. And the last several of those miles are slow— actually slower and slower each year— because the road is in increasingly poor shape as it climbs above Lake Berryessa. Notably the road involves 3 water crossings to get to the trailhead for Zim Zim.

Water crossing on Berryessa Knoxville Road (May 2025)

This weekend two were dry and the third had only an inch or so of water flowing across the road bed. But that wasn't the hard part of the drive. No, the part where I was thinking, This is probably the last year we drive here in our sports car convertible, was the crumbling road itself. The potholes are getting worse and worse.

Well, right around 12:30 we got to the trailhead. The drive had taken 3 hours, including our stop for brunch at Del Taco. Time to hike!

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Today we headed out to the Pinnacles— Pinnacles National Park— to hike. It's a day-adventure I've been looking forward to for a while, and finally today our schedules and the weather aligned. And oh, what nice weather it was. The park had a high temperature of 78° today, warm enough to feel, well, warm but not so hot that we'd regret being out in the sun. I mean, in the summer it gets really smokin' out there, like 100+. Thus a clear day in early spring is really the perfect time to visit. Like today!

We got off to a late start today. It wasn't until around 9:30 that we left the house. I'm not too proud to admit that I had some cold feet this morning about the hike, after planning it for the past week. The problem was I slept poorly last night. I considered whether I wanted to take an "easy day" today. I'd still go hiking somewhere; but somewhere shorter and easier. Intellectually I knew that I'd be happy once I got to the Pinnacles, but it took some pushing to get through the blahs.

The drive down to the Pinnacles was enjoyable. At 9:30am on Easter Sunday there wasn't a crazy amount of traffic. I mean, all 4 lanes in both directions on US-101 through San Jose were busy, just not bumper-to-bumper at 60mph like it sometimes gets.

42 miles out from home we reach the town of Gilroy. This is the southern end of what anyone could reasonably call the Bay Area or metropolitan San Jose. Though people do commute in from farther out than this. 😳 Beyond Gilroy US 101 narrows to 2 lanes in each direction and becomes a bit of a country highway as it traverses, well, countryside into Central California.

At 48 miles we reach the San Benito County line. Yes, 48 miles and we've just left the county. Where I grew up on the East Coast I could drive 48 miles and it'd involve 3 states. Welcome to the Western US! Government boundaries aside, we're happy to note as we cross the county line that the mountains around us are all still green.

At around 60 miles we near Prunedale. The only nice thing I have to say about Prunedale is that they finally allowed Caltrans to widen and straighten US-101 through their community so it's no longer a traffic bottleneck. Now it's a pleasure driving through the short mountain range here and dropping into the Salinas Valley on the other side.

At 67 miles we roll into the north side of Salinas. We're hungry so we stop for brunch at a couple of fast food restaurants. I eat at Carl's Jr.; Hawk gets Sonic Drive-In across the street. Then we get donuts for dessert from a nearby shop.

While in Salinas I have a... wardrobe malfunction. A seam ripped in my hiking shorts. I briefly consider a) just hiking for the day with a hole in my pants or b) just going home because I'm so pissed about it. Hawk points out we're literally right in front of a Wal-Mart, and almost certainly they have something inside I can buy and wear. I grumble about Wal-Mart fashion before, to my surprise, I find not one but three items of clothes to buy there!

South of Salinas 101 is a chill road. It's straight and level as it traverses farmland in the agricultural Salinas Valley. There's a Steinbeck museum here. He was born in Salinas and used it as inspiration for many of the settings in his books, including it being featuring literally in his classic, The Grapes of Wrath. I've read Salinas people are so pleased about it they've held book burnings in his honor.

At 97 miles we're finally in Soledad. This small town is where we turn off the highway and head up into the rugged hills of the Gabilan Mountains. You probably haven't heard of the Gabilan Mountains. But one thing interesting about them is they're so remote they're crossed than fewer roads than the Sierra Nevada range with its 14,000' peaks. And even state highway 146, which leads to the park, doesn't cross these mountains. It stops halfway across. It stops halfway across, in the park, then picks up again on the other side! The only way across Pinnacles National Park is on foot. That's how you know you're in a hard-core hiking park.

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Georgia Travelog #24
Atlanta - Saturday, 12 Apr 2025, 9pm

After a full day of hiking and road tripping today we still weren't done. We had another nearly 100 miles of driving to do. It was on to Atlanta! But first, dinner. At Golden Corral. πŸ˜‚

Stopping at the Golden Corral in Cumming, GA neatly split the remaining trip in half. But why, other than geographic convenience, why would we eat at a Golden Corral, you might ask. Certainly there are other restaurants in Cumming, at least some of them better than a Golden Corral.

Golden Corral has become a guilty pleasure. We first reconnected with it when we were traveling in Alaska and decided— twice— it would be the best eats. And on a roadtrip through rural Virginia last September. Then we ate at the chain again, twice, on a trip to Las Vegas two months ago.

Yeah, the food's not going to win any awards... except maybe "Favorite Restaurant Among Americans 400+ Pounds and Families With 6 Or More Kids". 🀣 But since it's a big buffet restaurant there are pretty always some good choices on deck. And as a buffet restaurant it provides near instant gratification. Plus, I enjoyed a freshly grilled steak for dinner, so it was totally worth the price of admission.

On the whole the drive down through Atlanta didn't take as long as I initially expected. I'd estimated we'd get in close to 10pm with a stop for dinner. Instead we got to our room by 9. The difference was it took longer going north a few days ago. For one, we hit traffic in downtown Atlanta on Thursday afternoon. Two, it always feels like it takes longer when I'm going to something than returning.

Total driving for the day: 198 miles. Total driving in three days: 756 miles.

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Georgia Travelog #23
Helton Creek - Saturday, 12 Apr 2025, 6pm

Today has been another day of driving around the Appalachian Mountains of north Georgia, but unlike yesterday— when it rained on us most of the day— today has been beautiful. As a result we've had a fairly packed day.

Once again we started out from the Holiday Inn Express in Dawsonville— except this morning we checked out. Tonight we're not done 'til we get to Atlanta! But first there was so much else.

Today our first stop was in Helen, the over-the-top charming kitschy shrieking tourist trap of a town made up to look like a German alpine village. We thought it might be a good place to get some morning eats! Alas the German bakery we'd spotted yesterday was really a German confectionery. Meaning, most of what they sell ready-to-eat is sugary sweets. I didn't feel like a Bavarian cream donut with a side of cheese danish for breakfast, so we sulked back out to the car where I ate a protein bar as we continued our drive.

Next up was Anna Ruby Falls a bit north of Helen. This falls blew me away. It's reached by a totally paved trail. It's steep but doesn't have stairs like Amicalola Falls (which we visited Thursday). Its tourist-friendliness isn't what blew me away, though. It's that up at the end of the canyon is a double falls. Two different creeks falls the back wall of the canyon and merge at the bottom.

After the falls we doubled back to Helen for lunch. Yes, we thought eating in the tourist trap town would be fun! We scrupulously avoided all the tourist trappy places, though, and shared a pizza at a low-key pizzeria. Then we went back to that bakery we skipped out of in the morning, because Bavarian cream donuts with a side of cheese danish.

Our next stop was Upper Chattahoochee Campground to hike to Horse Trough Falls. This is one where the drive to get there turned into an adventure. The Apple Maps piped through my mobile phone into the car's infotainment system recommended a slightly different route than the Google Map I've embedded above. Yeah, make your jokes about Apple Maps; but this is the first time they've steered me wrong. We wound up taking a much longer drive on dirt Forest Service roads than we needed to. And a few times it took interpolating between Apple Maps and AllTrails to figure out the right way to go. But we did get there, safely, and had a bit of fun making it an offroad adventure. In a rental car.

Once we got to the trailhead for Horse Trough Falls— and OMG, what a terrible name— we had the place almost entirely to ourselves. Maybe other people got a bum steer from Apple Maps, too, but couldn't find their way out of it like I did. 🀣

The falls were a mostly level 1/2 mile walk from the parking lot. It could have been even shorter but the actual Upper Chattahoochee Campground was still closed for the season... despite signs from last year saying it'd reopen March 15. Oops, maybe the people responsible for reopening the campground got sacked in one of DOGE's mass firings. 😰

Horse Trough was another falls that blew me away. It wasn't as epic as Anna Ruby but it was still way more than I expected out here, at what felt like the (horse's) ass end of nowhere.

After Horse Trough we switched gears a bit and did a non-waterfall hike. Instead of a falls we visited the top of a mountain. And not just any mountain, but Brasstown Bald, elev. 4,784', the highest peak in Georgia. It was late, almost 4pm, when we got to the visitors center a few hundred feet below the summit. I wondered if I should've dropped it from the list to save time for other hikes but I chose instead to trust in the continued sunny weather and sunset just after 8pm to give us more time to play. We had a good late-afternoon visit up there and still had time for two more waterfalls!

Trahlyta Falls wasn't so much a hike as a jump-out-of-the-car-and-take-pictures situation. Yes, there was a hike we could do, but it was in a state park that had a lot of construction going on. It was a headache to deal with. So we drove out of the park and back around to an unmarked pulloff on the highway where we snapped pictures from across the creek canyon.

Finally we made it over to Helton Creek Falls. It was only about 15 minutes from Trahlyta, though it may have taken longer as once more we had to drive a few miles on a dirt road to get to a falls. Once more, though, the falls exceeded my expectations. I was ready for a maybe 20-foot tall falls. Instead we got a 100' tall falls in multiple drops!

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Georgia Travelog #17
Back in Dawsonville - Friday, 11 Apr 2025, 9pm

We've just gotten back to Dawsonville, our home base in northern Georgia for two days. Today was a full day of going out an about, driving around the southern Appalachian Mountains to visit waterfalls. We saw a number of waterfalls today... and had a lot of water fall on us— as rain.

If you're reading these blogs in chronological order of me posting them, you'll see that I've skipped over several. That's because I want not to fall too far behind on blogging about this trip. I figure I'll post at least 3 detailed blogs with photos of places we visited today. For now here's a wrap-up.

We started the day by driving to Cane Creek Falls outside Dahlonega, GA. Well, actually, we started the day by getting a bit of breakfast at the gas station convenience store across the highway from our hotel. Then we drove out to Dahlonega.

We didn't know it in advance but Dahlonega is called Gold City. "Gold rush" in the US is often associated with California (1849) or maybe Alaska (1896), but the first gold rush in the US happened in 1828 when gold was discovered here. Settlers and the government used it mostly as an excuse to push out the Cherokee people who lived here. πŸ˜’

Cane Creek Falls was an easy 1/4 mile walk each way. It's on the grounds of a religious retreat center. We wisely called ahead to make sure it's open to the public today. It is/was... but only until 3pm. So it's good we called because our initial plan was to hike this last during the day.

Next we drove out to the Three Forks trailhead. It was a long drive on Forest Service roads. I think we did 12 miles on dirt and gravel roads just to get there... and it started to drizzle as we did. I was glad we had a crossover with AWD as our rental car (though I've done worse terrain with a front-drive sedan).

At Three Forks we hoisted on our packs for a 1 mile trek each eay to Long Creek Falls. Moments after we started hiking it began pouring rain. We were prepared for it with our rain jackets as it had been drizzling already. At the falls we chatted with members of a church youth group on an overnight backpacking trip. Last night while we watched thunder, lighting, hail, and rain from the comfort of our hotel room they were huddled together in a shelter atop Hawk Mountain!

Back at the car after a wet hike we draped our jackets over the backs of our seats to help them dry and drove back toward civilization. "Civilization" was, in this case, anywhere with a paved road.

Our plan for what next had been Desoto Falls but it was still pouring rain when we got there. We decided instead to go on to our next stop and try back at Desoto afterward. That brought us to the town of Helen, where Hawk wanted to visit a rock shop. Helen turns out to be a German/Swiss themed little town in foothill country. Some would say "charming"; I say tourist trap.

After a fruitless foray in Helen we drove back to Desoto Falls. The rain had abated! And, thanks to the day's mostly shitty weather, the falls were almost deserted. And Desoto was a two-fer; there were two sets of falls in opposite directions on the trail. We visited both.

The rain was still holding off as we rolled back into town near sunset. On the drive back we debated where to eat dinner. I wanted something meaty, Hawk didn't, and we both wanted fast. We landed on a locally run burgers-and-shakes restaurant named, appropriately enough, Burgers and Shakes. I got a burger, Hawk got a veggie sandwich, and nobody got a shake. Instead we went to Culver's for ice cream. Yes, Culver's is a slice of Wisconsin down here in Georgia!

Now we're back at the room, 160 miles after we left. I've showered to help wind down for the night, and maybe we'll get to bed by 10pm. Tomorrow will be another day of driving and waterfalls— and hopefully no rain!

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Georgia Travelog #10
Macon - Thursday, 10 Apr 2025, 12:30pm

Today we're shifting gears on our 9 day trip to Georgia. We left Savannah this morning after finishing 4-5 days of visiting my sister and her family last night. This morning we packed our bags at the hotel, I picked up a rental car at the airport— successfully this time— and we checked out of the hotel and hit the road by 9:30am.

We're off to northwestern Georgia for the next few days. We'll hike a bunch of waterfall trails in the southern Appalachian mountains. Today's a lot of driving, but we're planning to squeeze in our first falls hike this afternoon, at Amicalola State Park. And yes, it's a lot of driving: 325 miles or so to the park, then another 20 back to Dawsonville, where we'll spend the night tonight and tomorrow night.

Right now we're maybe halfway through the trip, in Macon. We've stopped for a quick lunch at a QuikTrip (QT) gas station. The trip so far has been pleasant. It's been made easier by a nice rental car assigned to us this trip, a Mazda CX-50.

Mazda CX-50 rental car (Apr 2025)

I rented an intermediate SUV, so this isn't an upgrade; it's what I booked & paid for. But within that category the manager on the lot gave me a choice of 3 vehicles: a Ford Edge, some Chevy POS, and this Mazda CX-50. She told me she thought the Ford would be the most luxe of the three, but a quick peek in the window showed it to be a base model. This Mazda is close to a base model, too; it's just one step up from base. But it has good standard equipment and a few tasteful upgrades— most especially heated seats, which make these long road trips more comfortable. I drove 2.5 hours straight before stopping here at the QT.

I picked the Mazda also because Mazdas are good drivers' cars in general. No, it's not a BMW— I know because I've owned several BMWs— but Mazdas can generally be counted on to have tight handling and a sporty suspension. They just don't always have engines that go... well, zoom-zoom.  This one's base engine is decent. On this trip I'm just out to knock down the highway miles comfortably, not set a Cannonball Run speed record while doing so. Thus I'm also getting a decent 30mpg on the highway at somewhere between 75-80 mph.

Surprisingly large cargo area in our Mazda CX-50 rental car (Apr 2025)

Another nice thing about this Mazda CX-50 is its capacious cargo area. It swallowed up our large suitcase (the gray one), a medium suitcase, a small one, and a few extra bags with ease. And look how much room there still is between that gray suitcase and where the hatch will close. Most comparably sized SUVs have way less cargo room than this. For example, when we did rent a Ford Edge a few trips ago, we had to put the smaller suitcases in the back seat because the big gray one basically filled the cargo area. And all this fits in the trunk of the CX-50 despite it looking and driving like no larger a car.
canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
This morning we set off on a road trip to Oakhurst. It's a jaunt of 175 miles, just a touch over 3 hours of driving without traffic. Having left at 9:47am (again, I mentally mark such things) I expected we could be hiking in the mountains above Oakhurst as soon as 1:30pm, after stops for lunch and probably gas along the way.

Just before we left, though, we heard the patter of rain on the roof. Not what we want to hear on a hiking day!

Rain on a road trip isn't much fun... especially when we're trying to go hiking! (Mar 2025)

Indeed it rained for the first leg of the trip as we drove south from Sunnyvale. There was no rain in the forecast for the area around Oakhurst... though the weather still wouldn't be nice there. The forecast has called for clouds and high temps in the 50s on Friday since, like, a week ago. "There's a week to go, maybe it'll get better," I said to Hawk. Hahaha, no, that didn't happen.

It's especially a pisser that we get partly crummy weather for our weekend trip after it was so nice last weekend when I was traveling for work. It was 72 on Sunday, 80 on Monday, and a whopping 85 on Tuesday— the warmest day since a freak heat wave 5½ months ago. But now that I have a day off it's not even 60. 😑

The Diablo Mountains are only green like this a few weeks a year (Mar 2025)

One thing about it being the rainy season in California is that many of the mountains that are brown most of the year are green right now. This is the Pacheco Pass (Route 152) through the Diablo Mountains. The East Bay Hills (also part of the Diablo range) in the Bay Area are carpeted with green right now, too. It's enjoyable to see it because it's only a few weeks a year these mountains are green.

The Diablo Mountains are only green like this a few weeks a year (Mar 2025)

Here's another pic of the incredible greenery. This is overlooking the San Luis Reservoir on the east side of the pass. And yes, the rain had abated as we passed through here.

The skies stayed partly sunny/partly cloudy as we drove across the Central Valley. The sun even started feeling a bit intense as we drove up into the Sierra foothills. Heavy clouds hung over the higher ridges of the Sierra, though. Would our hiking spot be favored with sun or it would be it cursed by those rain clouds? It seemed like it would be a close decision....

Stay tuned for more!

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Every summer I write a variety of blogs featuring the slogan "Friday Night Halfway". It's my practice of driving a few hours on Friday night and sleeping in a hotel to get a leg up on adventuring on Saturday. Well, it's not quite summer yet... and it's not quite evening yet, either. Thus today we did Friday Morning ALL THE WAY.

I took the day off from work today. I've now caught up for working the weekend at a trade show a few weeks ago; I still need to catch up for traveling for work last Sunday. Well, I didn't quite take the whole day off. I worked from 7am until about 8:45. Then I took the day off.

A few weeks ago we booked a hotel room for tonight in Oakhurst. It's a gateway town in the Sierra Nevada foothills. We're not going all the way up into the Sierra Nevada; it's too snowy. There are a few waterfall hikes right around Oakhurst we enjoy. They're in the 3,000 - 4,000' elevation range, so we figured they'd be fine to visit at this time of year.

We set off from home at 9:47am. Yes, I checked the time when we rolled out of the garage. I like to know these things. I'd hoped we'd leave by 9:15— and we probably could have, except neither of us packed our stuff last night. We were too tired. But it turned out okay because we could throw things together this morning. It's not like it's a long trip; we're just going for 2 days/1 night, and it's just for hiking.

Keep reading: Rain & Shine on the Road Trip
canyonwalker: Cheers! (wine tasting)
Non-Vegas Vegas Weekend Travelog #12
Back at the hotel - Sun, 16 Feb 2025, 8pm

Tonight is a lot like last night. We finished up fantastic hiking by 4pm, went for an early dinner at a Golden Corral buffet restaurant, and retired early to our room in a low-rise hotel very far off the Strip. Yes, today we ate at Golden Corral again. But it was a different Golden Corral restaurant. πŸ˜‚ Hawk didn't like the one last night because they didn't have her favorite dinner dish— or her favorite dessert. The one we visited tonight had both. It also had more of a carnival atmosphere inside. (That's a bad thing, BTW. But we mostly ignored it.)

Also like last night I'm pushing this blog forward while letting several journals full of photos and videos from the hike(s) that need processing wait. At this point one— one— from yesterday is ready to publish. Another 5 are in the backlog behind this one. I'll work the backlog after we get back from our trip Monday night.

The one thing not like yesterday is where we went. I already posted in this morning's blog that we went to Valley of Fire State Park. There we hiked to the Fire Wave, probably the most famous spot in the park; continued the trail around in a loop through the Seven Wonders trail; and then hiked the White Domes loop.

We were spent after that and also red-rocked out. We skipped even drive-to spots elsewhere in the park, instead opting for a scenic drive home through the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. It was over an hour of easy, country-highway type driving, through a combination of wide-open Mojave Desert vistas (basin-and-range geography, not flat desert) and occasional canyons and red rocks outcroppings.

Now we're back at the hotel, resting and unwinding from a busy day. And we've still got tomorrow's activities to plan. Our flight home isn't until 7:30pm, so we can plan a full day!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Panama Travelog #25
La Chorrera, Panama - Fri, 27 Dec 2024. 12pm.

Here's another blog from my Panama trip that I pushed the side so that my blogging wouldn't get too badly backlogged. Well, once I pushed it to the side it, along with several others, got stuck there for a few weeks. I'm going to try unwinding at least a few of them now.

After spending 4 days in El Valle de Antón we're driving back to Panama City. We'll spend 3 days there before flying home. The drive to Panama City would be about 130km if we were driving the shortest route, but we're taking slight side trips to visit two waterfalls along the way. The first of these is in La Chorrera... which is Spanish for The Waterfall. ...And that's the name of the town, BTW. The waterfall itself is named El Chorro, which is Spanish for The Stream. 🀷

El Chorro de la Chorrera, Panama (Dec 2024)

Getting to the falls was quite the little adventure. And by "adventure" I mean it really tried my patience. ...No, it wasn't a tough hike. The view from the edge of the falls above was a stroll of 25 meters from where we parked the car. It was getting through La Chorrera that was crazy-making. Driving highways in Panama is relatively easy— aside from the poor signage for turns/exits— but driving in city-center traffic is like something out of a Mad Max movie. Anyway, I've written about that elsehwere, so I'll get back to the waterfalls here.

El Chorro de la Chorrera, Panama (Dec 2024)

From the top of the falls we found an overgrown path leading down to the bottom. We picked our way over the slippery rocks near the falls for a better view.

You can see the interesting hexagonal pattern in the rocks we're standing on/next to at the near left. It's columnar basalt. Here's a wider angle that shows more of the rocks:

El Chorro de la Chorrera, Panama (Dec 2024)

There were a few other cars of people at the top of the trail as we visited. Curiously nobody else came down to the bottom of the falls like we did, so we had the place to ourselves for the 15 minutes we spent down here.

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Panama Travelog #27
Near Gamboa, Panama - Fri, 27 Dec 2024. 3pm.

This morning we packed up and left El Valle, Panama after 4 days there. It was surprising how fast we packed. We were done in, like, 5 minutes. Thought the reason it was 5 minutes and not 20 was that we weren't packing for a flight. We only had to carry things as far as the car, where there's no restriction like "1 bag and 1 personal item". Today we're driving to Panama City, where we'll unload all our little bags onto a luggage cart a hotel and take them in the elevator up to our room.

We're not driving directly to Panama City, though. We've made a few side trips to hike waterfalls along the way.


First we drove from El Valle to La Chorrera. It was highway driving all until the last few km, so it wasn't too bad. But then it was.

City Driving in La Chorrera

Our first stop was Chorro de la Chorrera. Trying saying that 5 times fast! The name literally means stream of the waterfall. But what's weird is that The Waterfall is the name of the town. The waterfall in The Waterfall is called The Stream.

Getting out to El Chorro de la Chorrera was a bit of a pain. The main reason is that traffic in La Chorrera was awful. I wrote before about how highway driving in Panama is a bit chaotic with drivers going at very different speeds and some weaving lanes. Well, city driving is a whole 'nother beast.

Many city streets are jammed with solid lines of cars crawling along. Few intersections have traffic lights. Many don't even have stop signs. The norm there seems to be to take turns as if it were a four-way stop. But when you've got a stop sign and crossing street doesn't, forget about anyone letting you in. They won't.

You've got to ignore what that red and white "STOP" sign means in the US and other civilized countries— stop until it's clear to go— and treat it as a momentary pause. You ease out into oncoming traffic until your blocking of their right of way forces someone to stop and let you in. And if you don't do that fast enough, someone behind you will overtake you and cut you off to get into traffic ahead of you.

Finally we got to El Chorro. Billed as "The largest falls in Panama" or maybe "one of the largest falls in Panama" it was kind of disappointing. We made the best of it, though, and enjoyed having it pretty much to ourselves. All the other foreign tourists were probably lost in traffic or waiting at a stop sign somewhere until midnight when the traffic abates.

Revenge Trip to Sendero el Charco

After spending a short while at El Chorro we got back in the car and Road Warrior'ed our way back out to the highway. Once on the main road it was smooth sailing up toward Gamboa, where we sought a revenge trip on the waterfalls of Sendero el Charco in Soberania National Park.

Revenge trip? Yes, because this was the trail that was closed when we tried to visit 4 days ago. And today... today it was still closed! 😑

This time, though, we were in a mood of "Fuck it, we're going in anyway." We parked off the road across the street, stepped over the chain across the parking lot, and walked past the empty gatehouse. There we noticed that the gatehouse was stripped completely bare inside and looked like it hasn't been staffed for years. The fact that the park has apparently been abandoned by authorities made us feel better about breaking in. That, and the fact that we parked next to another car belonging to people who'd evidently done the same already.

We had ourselves a nice loop hike in El Charco. Yeah, the trail's it deteriorating shape like it hasn't been kept up in several years. There's a suspension bridge that's falling apart. I determined that it's falling apart when I was about halfway across. 😳 But we got across safely and looped back around to the falls. And no cops came out to arrest us for breaking in to the park. ...Of course, if they could afford to send cops to ticket or arrest people, they could staff the booth charging admission. And maybe fix the suspension bridge.

Now we're back at the car, ready to head down to Panama City. Our phones are out of cell range up here in the park, so it's good I know the first 10km of the route already. It's the same as we drove earlier this week and earlier today.

What, no Pictures?

As I mentioned in one of my blogs yesterday, I'm streamlining my Panama blogs now with fewer pictures to keep the backlog from getting so out of hand. I'll come back around to share photos & video once I'm caught up.

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Panama Travelog #8
El Valle, Panama - Mon, 23 Dec 2024. 3pm.

This afternoon we drove from Gamboa, Panama, the home of the Gamboa Rainforest Preserve, to Valley de Antón. It was a 132km trip. Along the way our only stop was a brief, foiled attempt to hike a waterfall.

Driving 132km, which is not quite 80 miles, can be quite an undertaking or can be a nothing-burger, depending on where those 80 miles are. In the wide open spaces of the western US, for example, you can drive 80 miles in many places without passing more than a one-blinking-stoplight town or two. Our route across a few states in Panama today wasn't that remote. We passed several towns, few of which were quite that small. We also had busy traffic a fair bit of the way, even on the 4- and 6- lane divided highways that made up about 2/3 of our route. It was seldom slow, but driving in traffic did require constant vigilance as drivers are much less predictable here than in the US. More on that below.

So, what's it like driving in Panama vs. in the US?

First, I've got to say, way more is familiar than not. You drive on the right. The basic traffic laws are the same. Road signs look familiar— things like Stop (though it says "High" in Spanish), One way, and No Parking. There's none of that British crap like a pictograph for "Road Turns to Bacon Ahead." Though green signs informing you which exit goes where are infuriating small, vague, and placed almost too late to make turns safely when driving faster than 40 km/hr.

Second, it's unclear what the prevailing attitude on speed is. Or, should I say, the prevailing attitude on speed is "Whatever". On a road signed for 100 km/h plenty of people are tooling along at 70-80. Including police cars.

I thought I'd just bought myself a ticket when I nearly overtook a police van cruising on one of the highways. I cautiously dropped back and matched his speed. Then I realized he was driving only 75 in a 100 zone. Plus, the van had a broken window and seemed to be full of flattened cardboard boxes, like a hoarder's car. Maybe it's the hoarder police. They write a speeding ticket, but instead of giving it to you they hold onto it.

On slower roads people speed excessively. 60 km/h zone on a highway? Count on seeing people driving over 80 and weaving lanes. And they reason they're weaving is to get around the people driving as slow as 25 in the 60 zone.

Between these differences requiring vigilance, and the poor seats in our crappy little rental, I was feeling saddle sore already halfway through this two-hour trip. That's unusual for me as I routinely handle drives 2-3x as long without fatigue. I got us there without stops (other than the abortive hiking one mentioned at the top) by force of will. If nothing else I figured I'll spend most of the rest of the day walking, standing, lying down, or sitting— in a better chair.

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Panama Travelog #5
Gamboa Reserve, Panama - Sun, 22 Dec 2024. 7:30pm.

This afternoon after landing in Panamá City (the one in Panamá, not Florida, US) and renting a car we drove around Panamá City and then north into the mountains along the spine of the country to the Gamboa Reserve. It was a drive of 45km that took about an hour due to some traffic getting around the edge of Panama City. At numerous points on the drive— basically every time I had to turn left or right— I was glad for Apple CarPlay in our otherwise bare-bones car as road signs in Panama vary between small and positioned almost too late, to nonexistent. But we got to Gamboa Resort, our place to stay for the night, adequately well before sunset, which was my goal. I don't want to drive unfamiliar roads, in a foreign country, with piss-poor signage, after dark.

We checked in to the hotel and went to our room. Here's a walkthrough video:



It's a nice, modestly-sized room with a balcony and hammock overlooking the Chagres River. (In the video I may mistakenly refer to it as Gamboa Lake. That's because there is a marina nearby. The Chagres River feeds Lake Gatun a bit further down.)

It could have been a nice evening overall but a stain was put on it by what happened next. As we went out to bring in another bag, we found our room keys didn't work anymore. Both had worked 10 minutes prior, when we arrived. Now neither worked. So we trekked to the front desk, waited in line to get new keys, and trekked back. The new keys also didn't work. So Hawk trekked back to the front desk (I stayed put with the suitcase) to get a third set. These also didn't work.

Fortunately at this point the hotel already figured out that they should sent a maintenance technician. I mean, when a guest needs to replace keys three times in 10 minutes because none of them are working, that tells you the problem isn't merely a bad key (or six) but a bad lock. The technician pried the plastic cover off the door's electronic lock, exposing a data jack underneath, and connected his laptop via what looked like a proprietary cable. In a few minutes he had the door rebooted or something, because our keys worked.

Gamboa Resort in Panama (Dec 2024)
We had been thinking about using the resort's pool but felt too much time was burned up by fighting with the busted lock. Instead we decided to get dinner as it was after 6:30pm already and we hadn't had a proper meal in almost 24 hours.

"Maybe after dinner," we agreed about using the pool— but by then it was full dark and the pools seemed to have closed.

Maybe tomorrow morning.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Thanksgiving '24 Travelog #8
Linden, VA - Tue, 26 Nov 2024, 4:30pm

After visiting my niece Mattie and her boyfriend Kai over lunch in Front Royal today we refined our plans for the rest of the day. We already had plans to meet my cousin Matt and his family for dinner 30-45 minutes east, but Mattie needed to leave for work by 1:30 so several hours of the afternoon were unexpected free. I called and texted my middle sister, R.— yes, the one who's now grandma— to see if we could visit briefly or meet her for ice cream or whatever while we were in town. She didn't answer either one (typical) so we decided we'd visit a rock shop 30-45 minutes south while giving her more opportunity to respond.

No answer had come by 90 minutes later. We still had a 90 minute gap in our schedule, even factoring in travel time to Matt's place. We decided instead of arriving at Matt's 90 minutes early (which he said was okay) we'd take a scenic drive roughly in the direction of his place along the Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park.

Late afternoon on the Skyline Drive near Front Royal (Nov 2024)

The Skyline Drive is part of the Blue Ridge Parkway, a road that traces the crest of the Blue Ridge mountains for nearly 500 miles through Virgina and North Carolina. We drove stretches of it a lot a few months ago in North Carolina just as a convenient— and beautiful— way of getting from hither to yon. And we drove parts of Skyline Drive that brought back childhood memories.

Late Autumn isn't the best time to see the mountains. The trees that had colorful leaves a month ago now have dead brown leaves or bare branches. And it's a bit chilly out to enjoy hiking. But that's okay; we took it mostly as a scenic drive. In beauty I walk... even when by 'walk' I mean drive. πŸ˜…

Late afternoon on the Skyline Drive near Front Royal (Nov 2024)

We stopped at a few of the roadside pullouts along the Skyline Drive. That's part of the beauty of the road. The road is so peaceful, and every two miles or so there's a tranquil pullout to see something. We nearly had the park to ourselves. That's the upside of visiting late in the Fall and late in the day: no crowds.
canyonwalker: wiseguy (Default)
Thanksgiving '24 Travelog #7
Front Royal, VA - Tue, 26 Nov 2024, 1:30pm

We're still in northern Virginia, still visiting with relatives. It's a stretched out process because many of my relatives we're only able to see one or two at a time because they're a) spread out and b) still working this week so we have to fit things around their schedules. And today is another stretched-out day of driving, as we're currently in Front Royal, about 60 miles west of our hotel that's about 10 miles west of Washington, DC, and will make a few other stops on our drive before the day is done.

Today we met my niece, "Bettie", and her boyfriend "Kai", for lunch. Bettie and Kai are young adults, 18-19 years old, working entry level jobs as they figure out paths forward in life. That's a jump forward as the last time I saw Bettie was 5 years ago, and she was a little kid then. I mean, she still thought poop jokes were funny. (Though to be fair, so did everyone age 5-75 except her dad.)

We'd seen Bettie's older sisters, Tessa and Mattie, just a few days before. We talked about that, including how Mattie with her infant son Dean makes me feel old. The child's grandma is 7 years younger than me!

We also talked about family situations. You might recall from blogs I wrote a few years ago that Tessa has a very strained relationship with her parents. Well, so do Mattie and Bettie now. πŸ˜– Tessa and Mattie have moved out and live with their partners. Bettie still has one foot in her parents' house and one foot in with Kai's family, and she works her schedule to minimize interaction with her own parents. It's tough when you can't yet afford to live on your own and you can't live with your parents without hearing a daily screed about how your behavior is immoral and your boyfriend is the wrong race.

canyonwalker: Walking through the desert together (2010) (through the desert)
Thanksgiving '24 Travelog #4
Martinsburg, WV - Sun, 24 Nov 2024, 5pm

This morning we got in the car at our hotel in Falls Church, VA and drove out to Martinsburg, West Virginia. Yes, it's a bit of a haul; about 63 miles by shortest route. While that would be a terrible commute it's fine for a day-trip. We made the drive out there in 90 minutes even with some traffic on the near end.



Why Martinsburg? It's where one of our nieces lives with her partner and their 6 month old son, Dean. One of our other nieces joined us out there. Her partner would've come, too, but he's getting over an illness and didn't want to risk infecting the young child. Dean is just 6 months old.

Me holding my grand-nephew, Dean (Nov 2024)

Dean is a very mellow child. He falls asleep easily and is happy for anyone to hold him. Our niece passed him first to Hawk, on whose shoulder he quickly fell asleep. Then when she needed to get up she passed him to me. He woke for a few moments and happily went back to sleep. BTW, in the photo above I'm not asleep, too. I'm just mocking Dean for how mellow he is. πŸ˜‚

Visiting family made for a great day. But seeing Dean reminded me that I've just gotten a generation older. Dean is my niece's child. That means Dean's grandmother is my sister. My younger sister. 😳 My younger sister, in her mid 40s, is a grandma. And I'm older than her. 🀯
canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Inlaws' Anniversary Trip Journal #7
IAD Airport - Tue, 12 Nov 2024, 2:05pm

We're in the process of heading home from our impromptu 5 day trip to visit Hawk's parents in Pennsylvania. We've driven 110-ish miles to Dulles (IAD) airport outside Washington, DC. From here we're flying back to San Jose with a connection in Phoenix.

Here are Five Things about this day of Planes, Trains, and Automobiles:

1) Yes, it really is Planes, Trains, and Automobiles; we're traveling via all 3 today. We've just driven two hours by car, we took a train at the airport to get from the terminal to our concourse— okay, it was more like a tram, but it still counts because it was on rails— and, of course, we're flying 2,500 miles.

2) We drove 110 miles to IAD airport instead of flying from a closer airport because it's still more convenient. Harrisburg's airport, MDT, has even less service than it used to. For example, United cut its flights between MDT and its worldwide hub in Chicago! Now one has to go through its other worldwide hub, IAH, or maybe EWR (Newark) to get there. At IAD we were able to get a Southwest flight with reasonable timings back to San Jose. And because it's Southwest, it's much cheaper for us. Yay, Companion Pass!

3) 250 miles at 94 cents per mile. That's what our rental car cost, $0.94/mile. That includes both the rental price and refilling the gas tank. We drove 250 miles this trip, almost all of that on getting to my inlaws' house and back. I'm always curious to compare what it costs to rent a car on a trip vs. Uber,/Lyft it. Those services run $1.50 ~ $2 a mile on shorter trips... and would likely be prohibitively expensive for longer trips such as the 110+ miles each way between their house and the DC-area airports.

4) We're got to our gate 1h40m before departure because planning. Yeah, it seems like wasted time to be here that early. It'd be more efficient to arrive 45 minutes earlier instead of 100. But this was a matter of planning. In planning our drive down from Harrisburg we allowed for:

  • The possibility of bad traffic somewhere along the way.
  • The possibility of stopping for lunch taking longer than expected.
  • The possibility of airport security (or really anything else at the airport that can go wrong) taking longer than expected.

On a travel day any one, two, or all three of these can happen. Today none of them occurred. We enjoyed smooth sailing all the way. So now we get to cool our heels in the waiting area. If we had lounge access it would be nice to sit in the lounge and enjoy a couple of free G+Ts, but as it's only just after 2pm it seems too early for booze.

5) We turn around and do it again in 10½ days. Yes, we considered the value of making this trip now given that we're going to be back out here in less than 2 weeks. We decided it was worth it. And Hawk's parents were beside themselves with joy that we came out just for their 60th anniversary.

canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
PA Anniversary Trip Journal #3
Camp Hill, PA - Fri, 8 Nov 2024, 9:30am

Finally we got to my inlaws' house last night. I say finally because here I am, at journal number three (maybe technically number 4) in this series, and this is the first one in which I'm actually here.

The drive up from Arlington, VA went smoothly. We hit the road in earnest after an unexpected anniversary dinner of our own. The upside of stopping for dinner when we did is that rush hour traffic cleared out. By 8pm there was one minor slowdown on the Capital Beltway. We covered about 120 miles in 2 hours of driving. With a stop along the way for drinks and snacks (as if dinner wasn't enough!) we got in around 10:20pm.

It's been nearly a year since we saw Hawk's parents so we had a lot to catch up on. We didn't get to bed until 1:30am! Staying up late was little problem for us as we started the day 3 time zones away. And it was little problem for the parents as they routinely stay up past midnight anyway. That's something that always surprises me because it's so different from my own parents years ago. When I was younger, it always took planning if I wanted to call them at 11pm, when long distance rates were cheaper. (That's another memory lane trip— who else remembers waiting until 11pm to call people when the rates dropped?) Now if Hawk and I are discussing something at 9:30pm in California and we agree, "Let's check with your parents," she just calls them, at 12:30am their time. They're still up.

Well, maybe Hawk's mom doesn't sleep much anymore, but I still need my rest. As a result of staying up past 1:30 I swatted off my 6:45am alarm and then slept in until 9:30. That was unfortunate as today's actually a work day for me. I'm working remotely from a desk upstairs in "our" bedroom. At least for the 9am hour here, 6am Pacific, I'd only planned to work on some reports that aren't due until next week. I can finish them up over the weekend. For the rest of today I've got several hours of meetings. At 6pm local I'll be done and I'll head downstairs to meet various other relatives are flying & driving in, some from overseas, to help my inlaws celebrate their 60th anniversary.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Blue Ridge Trip '24 #32
Back in Boone, NC - Sat, 7 Sep 2024. 6pm

The plan for today, our last full day in North Carolina, was simple. We'd enjoy a fun and fulfilling hike at Catawba Falls then two-fer the day with a visit to nearby Mt. Mitchell. At elev. 6,684 feet (2,037 m) it's the highest peak in the eastern US.

Weather forecasts said it would be a clear afternoon at Mt. Mitchell. It didn't take a degree in meteorology to recognize that as we climbed from the foothills there were thick clouds clustered around the 6,000'+ peaks around Mt. Mitchell.

View of Mt. Mitchell covered in clouds (Sep 2024)

We drove up the access road into Mt. Mitchell State Park. We wondered if maybe the highest peak would poke above the clouds or if we could wait out the clouds for them to burn off on this otherwise sunny day. Alas, neither happened. (The clouds shrouding the valley around Catawba Falls stuck there seemingly all day, too.) The top was completely socked in with clouds. And it was cold. And windy! We waited in our car for about 30 minutes with no change before heading back down. We figured we'd enjoy the rest of the Blue Ridge mountains in the sunshine.

We drove the scenic route home, sticking to the Blue Ridge Parkway almost the whole way. The thing is, while it's the scenic route it's actually not that much slower than driving regular highways since there are no traffic lights or stop signs. And heck, there was barely even any traffic— surprising for a Saturday afternoon.

Now we're back at our hotel in Boone. We're taking it easy this afternoon but also cleaning and arranging our gear to pack it up tomorrow morning, when we begin our trip home.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
This morning we started from our Friday Night Halfway point in Jackson, California— and yes, I slept well after the power came back on at the hotel—and headed up into the Sierra Nevada. Our ultimate destination for today is a hike to a mountain called The Nipple. It's high up above the Carson Pass. But first we stopped just below the Carson Pass at Silver Lake.

Silver Lake, Sierra Nevada (Sep 2024)

Last time we were up this way, just 5 weeks ago, we also stopped at Silver Lake. So often in the past we powered straight past this beautiful lake at 7,300' elevation. I think now we might make it a regular pit stop whenever we drive up Route 88 through the Sierras.

Silver Lake, Sierra Nevada (Sep 2024)

The difference between 5 weeks ago and today is subtle but noticeable. The water level is about 3 feet lower! That shows up in places like where I remember balancing on a log to cross an inlet of the lake and get out to a near island. Now that log is high and dry.

Silver Lake, Sierra Nevada (Sep 2024)

With the water level lower now we could explore further out into the lake, walking across to what were islands earlier in the season. If we come up here next year really early in the season— and "really early" might be July— it'll be interesting to see how much bigger the lake seems.

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