canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #14
Christmas Valley, OR - Thu, 3 Jul 2025, 4pm

This afternoon we're hiking the Crack in the Ground in the dry, volcanic bluffs of eastern Oregon. This hike has been a long time coming... and I say that not just because it's taken me over two weeks to move this blog from my backlog but also because this is a hike that landed on my hiking backlog a few years ago.

"Check out this amazing volcanic crack in the ground!" and Oregonian friend texted us a few years ago.

"Looks awesome, are you planning a trip?" we asked.

And from there the conversation fizzled out. 🙁 But while our friend may have forgotten about this fascinating geologic feature, I did not. So when we planned this July 4th week trip to Oregon this hike was on my short list of things I wanted to do.



On this hike I recorded both photos and video. As I prepared this blog I thought about which to include— or both. Ultimately I decided in favor of video as it's way better at conveying the immersive experience of walking through this narrow canyon.

In beauty I walk.

And this is only part 1 of, like, four, so stay tuned for more!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #12.5
McKenzie Pass, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 7:30pm

When we first neared the summit and entered a lava field at the edge of the McKenzie pass we thought, "Enh, we've seen lava fields before." But then it kept going. And going. And going. We realized it was a big thing. I started making video as we drove through. But then Hawk pointed out, "Stop! We just drove past an observatory made of lava! Go back."

Wright Observatory in the McKenzie Pass, Oregon (Jul 2025)

And holy shit, up here at 5,325' (which isn't that high in California but seems like the roof of the world here in Oregon), there's a observatory made of lava rocks. Not just the floor is lava, but the walls and ceiling, too!

We were tired as hell, and hungry, and sore. We were counting the minutes until we got back home. But suddenly all those feelings went away. We had to explore this observatory made of lava!

View of (two of) the Three Sisters from Wright Observatory in the McKenzie Pass (Jul 2025)

It was a slow slog up those winding, uneven lava-rock steps to the top. A fierce wind blew away whatever warmth clung to our bodies. But the views as we circle around were amazing. Above is a view of The Sisters. It's actually the Three Sisters, but South Sister was feeling shy this evening and hid behind Middle Sister (on the right).

Looking west across the lava field of the McKenzie Pass, elev. 5,325' (Jul 2025)

The observatory has chutes in its walls labeled with what mountain you can see looking through each slot. There are too many volcanic peaks visible to include them all. I'm sharing this non-peak picture, above, to show the view looking west, where we're headed next. We've already driven a few miles across this lava field, and there's about a mile more to go. When I looked north toward Mt. Washington, the lava field seemed to extend miles in that direction. It's amazing there's a road through here.... And according to plaques in the observatory, this is the route of the original road built across this part of the Cascades!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #12
McKenzie Pass, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 7:25pm

After hiking Proxy Falls, Lower and Upper, we thought we were done for the day. We were tired and hungry and both ready to be home. Or at least somewhere sitting down for dinner. In moments where we had signal as we climbed up toward the McKenzie Pass we refreshed our maps to get an ETA for getting back to Bend— or at least to Sisters— where we could find a decent restaurant. It looked like it would be about 8pm for Bend. Hawk tamped down on her usual feelings of carsickness as I hurried through the curves on the twisty mountain road toward home. But then as we crested the mountain pass a strange thing happened. The floor was LAVA. We had to stop and look.


Okay, so this video doesn't show us stopping. Trust me, we did stop to visit that observatory I called out in the video— yes, the one made from LAVA. I'll share photos in another blog entry.

In beauty I walk... even when I drive! 😂

Updatecontinued in next blog with pics at the observatory made of lava!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #11
Blue Lake OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 6:30pm

According to our map on AllTrails, it was going to be an uphill climb from Lower Proxy Falls to the upper falls. Up, up, all the way; the steepest uphill on the trail. Well, aside from the off-trail climbing we did getting back up to the trail after climbing over logs and walking through water to see Lower Proxy Falls from its base, it was basically flat on the way to Lower Proxy Falls. In fact, the last little bit was gently downhill. AllTrails was out to lunch.

Hiking the Proxy Falls trail in the Oregon Cascades (Jul 2025)One thing I always enjoy about the Pacific Northwest, especially the Cascade Mountains, is how we're so often surrounded by huge trees.

I grew up in a neighborhood where a stand of old growth trees remained behind our house. It's almost unheard of today to have old growth trees in a suburban neighborhood. Developers bulldoze the entire plat for simplicity, build houses, and maybe plant a few saplings in the yard. But we had a few mature trees in our yard plus a stand of untouched forest behind us.

As a kid I always the view from our back yard of the tall, straight trees behind the house. But those were East Coast trees. They only seemed tall relative to my diminutive size. The tallest one, a looming Black Walnut, probably wasn't much more than 80' tall. But compared to everything else, and compared to me, it seemed huge. Out here in the PNW the commonest tree is the Douglas Fir, which easily grows to 200'+. It's humbling to feel so dwarfed by nature. It throws me back to my childhood sense of wonder.

It was just as well that the trail to Upper Proxy Falls was gently because Hawk and I were seriously flagging. It had been a long day, going on 6pm already as we wound down the last bit to the base of the falls.

Upper Proxy Falls trail in the Oregon Cascades (Jul 2025)

Upper Proxy Falls was both pretty and a disappointment. Pretty, because, well, look at it. 😅 And yet also a disappointment because it was shrouded by so many trees and didn't seem to have a big, main tier anywhere but just a series of steep cascades.

Two groups of hikers arrived practically on our heels. One pair were the gal and guy who said "Yeah, no" when we told them about our adventure getting to the bottom of Lower Proxy Falls. They were content to admire these falls from across the pond at the bottom.

Another trio of hikers were young women who immediately started climbing a faint trail up the hill to the right of the falls. It seemed their goal was to get about 1/3 of the way up— that's as far as any of them got before them stopped, anyway— and take Instagram pictures (or is it TikTok videos nowadays?) of themselves in one of the larger cascades with water pouring over their heads. I timed my photos for when they were standing behind trees so they wouldn't ruin my Instagram-worthy pictures. 😂

After this Hawk and I hiked back up the slight rise from the bottom of the falls and the finished the loop back down to the parking lot. I honestly don't remember a lot about the hike from that point, other than that it was down at the end. We're both tired enough that we fell into the one-foot-in-front-of-the-other mindset, kind of block out other things around us. Now we're back at the car, resting for a moment before beginning the drive home over the McKenzie Pass to Bend on the other side of the Cascades.

Update: But wait, there's more! An unexpected hike appeared on the way home, when we thought we were too tired! Stay tuned....



canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #10
Blue Lake, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 5:30pm

After hiking Downing Creek Falls earlier this afternoon we drove back up toward the Santiam Pass then south down the McKenzie River canyon. We passed a few signs for waterfalls along the way and sped past them at 60mph, confident they weren't interesting. (Ironic foreshadowing: they were totally interesting. We'd have to come back for them!) We turned west, heading back uphill along Old McKenzie, and reached the trailhead for Proxy Falls.

A rough, dry trail to Proxy Falls (Jul 2025)

The Proxy Falls trail is a loop with spurs off to two waterfalls, Lower and Upper Proxy Falls. We quickly found that our AllTrails.com map was out to lunch. It showed the first part of the trail as being downhill. You can see in the pic above that it's decided uphill. We huffed and puffed up a ridge of volcanic rubble.

Just as we were running out of steam the trail leveled off. Soon enough we reached the spur for the first falls.

Lower Proxy Falls is nice but mostly shrouded from the trail... (Jul 2025)

The spur trail led to a partial view of Lower Proxy Falls. Much of the Falls, especially its base, was shrouded by dense trees down in the canyon. The trail seemed to peter out here. Keyword: seemed.

We paced back and forth a bit, peering down the little ridge we were on to see if there'd been a washout or slide that obscured the trail. Sure enough, there had been. We could see remnants of a trail at the bottom of the hill. We picked our way carefully down the hillside, then balanced on and climbed over the trunks of huge fallen trees across the bottom of the canyon until we reached the foot of Lower Proxy Falls.

Some clambering got us to the base of Lower Proxy Falls (Jul 2025)

To really get the best view of the falls we had to walk out into the middle of the creek. At first I hesitated as I was wearing my hiking sandals instead of my boots. Boots would let me step through a few inches of water without getting my socks wet. But I deemed that the weather was warm enough to deal with wet feet, plus what's beauty without a little discomfort? 😅 We walked into the creek and got our feet wet.

Some clambering got us to the base of Lower Proxy Falls (Jul 2025)

Once we were satisfied drinking in the view of the falls and soaking our feet in chilly water we scrambled across the big logs (much bigger than those you see in the photos above!) to the bottom of the hill opposite the falls. We picked a different route to the top, looking to save ourselves a few steps. I took a small spill on the way up. Again, what's beauty without a bit of discomfort. 🤣

At the top of the hill we met a pair of hikers looking for the falls. We told them about our cross-country, wet-foot expedition, and they basically said, "Yeah, no." In fact I think those were their exact words: "Yeah, no." 🤣

Fine by me if they choose to stay on the bunny trail. Me? In beauty I walk.

Keep reading: These were Lower Proxy Falls; next we visit Upper Proxy Falls!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #9
Detroit, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 4pm

After an enjoyable hike at Tumalo Falls near Bend this morning we drove back near town to get some lunch. By then it was already noon. We picked a frou-frou burger restaurant on the west side of town because it meant not having to drive all the way into town. Plus, their menu had a few not-so-frou-frou options so we felt we'd be covered. It was decent; maybe decent-plus.

After lunch we hit the road again and drove over Cascade crest to the west and halfway down toward the Willamette Valley. There, in the Western Cascades, was our next hiking destination, Downing Creek Falls. I'll start you with a video of the falls while I explain a bit more about the hike.



Finding this hike was hard. It was hard even with a good trail description and GPS maps on our phones. That's because the trail is up an unmarked dirt road. At a fork in the road where the trail notes suggested we park and start hiking, we pushed further in our car, confident of its 4x4 capabilities and my ability to use them. Our boldness in that respect was rewarded; we cut about half the length off the hike just by driving up the two-track until we reached a natural blockade where the two-track turned to an overgrown single track. We pulled on our packs and hiked the rest of the way.

Downing Falls, Oregon (Jul 2025)

The foot trail was faint and overgrown in many places. It took some wilderness skill on our part to keep heading in the correct direction. Before we reached the main falls (pictured) we saw some small cascades and a weeping wall. From there we could hear the main even slightly further up the canyon so we pressed on.

Downing Falls, Oregon (Jul 2025)

Once we reached the falls we lingered for a while at the back of the canyon, climbing around on the slick, steep ground to view the falls from different angles.

Downing Falls, Oregon (Jul 2025)

This whole time we had the falls entirely to ourselves. That's one of the pluses of sticking through to find a remote, poorly signed falls. Though as beautiful as these falls are I'm surprised the Forest Service hasn't marked or maintained the trail.

Update: on the drive back out to the road we did pass another hiker coming in. Our two vehicles could barely pass on the two-track! He deftly wedged his crossover as close to the side as he could, while I plowed our SUV about a foot into the undergrowth on the right. We passed with just inches to spare.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #8
Bend, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 11:30am

I posted two blogs already about hiking Tumalo Falls and all I've shared is... Tumalo Falls (see part 1, part 2). Well, okay, not just the falls but also a bit about the art and science of photography. But, hey, there's still hiking to be done here. In beauty I walk, and all of that.

Double Falls on Tumalo Creek near Bend (Jul 2025)

The trail continues past Tumalo Falls up a pretty stream canyon. Maybe a mile or so in it reaches Double Falls. These aren't as awe-inspiring as Tumalo Falls but definitely worth the extra hike.

Double Falls on Tumalo Creek near Bend (Jul 2025)

I'm sharing here two pictures, one I took with each of the cameras I'm carrying. I won't explain this time what the differences are.... I leave that to you for homework. It'll be easy if you've actually read my past two blogs and not just looked at the pictures. (Extra credit for identifying where that quip comes from, BTW. 🤣)

At 2 miles this isn't a huge hike. It's certainly not our plan for the day. It's actually just our plan for before lunch. We'll hike back down and drive back into town for some eats, then drive up over the crest of the Cascades for more hikes this afternoon.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #7½
Bend, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 11am

Hiking Tumalo Falls near Bend, Oregon is our first new hike of this trip. Yesterday we visited Paulina Falls, which was beautiful, but we'd been there once before, six years ago. In my blog earlier today I slow-walked the start of our Tumalo Falls hike, writing extensively about some of the tech of photography behind photographing waterfalls. Well, there's more. 😂

Tumalo Falls, Deschutes National Forest, Oregon (Jul 2025)

One of the differences I noted between modern iPhone cameras and traditionally designed (but still modern) dedicated cameras is that iPhones do exposure stacking. They automatically capture multiple frames of an image in rapid succession and then blend those frames together seamlessly to produce a single image that's presented to the user. It seems like you clicked the shutter button once and got one simple picture, but there's a lot of fancy computation and image processing happening inside the device. And partly it's doing that because there's so much computational power on board. The A18 processor in my iPhone, which is already a year-old model, is approximately 100,000 times more powerful than the computers that sent the Apollo 11 mission to the moon. And here I'm just asking it to take a better waterfall picture. 😅

So, what's better about it? Take a look at the rock wall to the right of the falls. In the photos I shared earlier (previous blog) it's hard to make out the details. Here, in this photo, my iPhone recognized that the shadowy area was a big part of the picture and worked to illuminate it better.

Compare that to a traditional dedicated camera, which really does capture just one picture and deliver it to you when you press the trigger:

Tumalo Falls, Deschutes National Forest, Oregon (Jul 2025)

...Okay, well, that rock wall to the right isn't too bad, is it. It's totally not all dark shadows. But that's because I worked hard in Photoshop to fix it. Even with my deft use of layers and masking and the "Shadows and Highlights" tool, there are still artifacts I could not avoid. Artifacts are those tell-tale fingerprints that indicate the image has been 'shopped, like the Photoshopped portrait of Princess Kate and her kids that sent people into a tizzy last year. And despite those artifacts that a trained eye easily spots, the shadow recovery I did in Photoshop with Tumalo Falls still doesn't look as good as the straight-out-of-the-camera (SOOC) photo from my iPhone 16 Pro.

Are other parts of my dedicated camera + Photoshop pic better? Absolutely. The richer colors in the second photo are SOOC, which is a huge reason I continue to lug around my dedicated camera and lens set even while my comparatively svelte iPhone is always in my pocket. Plus, as I explain in my previous blog, the motion blur on the water is an effect I can create SOOC with my dedicated camera that there isn't yet a practical way to do with an iPhone. Maybe soon, though; maybe soon....

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #7
Bend, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 10:30am

We got a bit of a late start leaving our hotel room in Bend today. As a result we put off a hike in the desert-y terrain west of here because we'd want to start early to beat the heat until later in the week. Instead we came here, to the Oregon Cascades where there's shade on most trails, and hoped we weren't starting too late for the popular Tumalo Falls trail. We weren't; we arrived in good time. And it would be the first of at least six (depending on how you count them) waterfalls we'd see today.

Fair warning: In this blog I'm going to talk tech(nique) about photography. If that makes your eyes glaze over, you're more than welcome to employ the Playboy magazine approach of just looking at the pictures and not reading the article. 🤣

Tumalo Falls, Deschutes National Forest (Jul 2025)

If waterfalls were scored on a scale of views divided by distance or effort to get to them, Tumalo Falls would score very highly. The first viewpoint, where I make the photo above, is just steps from the trailhead. There's also an upper viewpoint that you can see above the falls to the left in the pic above. I'll get back to that in a moment.

On this trip I carried two cameras, as I often do— though less now than before. The two cameras are 1) my cell phone's built-in camera, which I virtually always have with me, and 2) my Fujifilm interchangeable lens camera that I opt to carry with me when I think the views are going to be really great... or require one of the things that camera, and the special lenses I own, are really good for. I'm selective about bringing the latter camera because it's comparatively heavy and bulky.

So, what's this heavy, bulky (comparatively) camera really good for? Let's start with the same basic picture:

Tumalo Falls, Deschutes National Forest (Jul 2025)

One thing you can see straight away by comparing these first two photos is that, in good light, the Fuji captures way richer colors than my iPhone. "Oh, but can't you punch up the colors in Photoshop?" you might ask. I already did! The first picture is the result after fiddling a bit with saturation and contrast. The Fuji kicks the iPhone's iAss when there's good light.

BTW, why do I specify "good light"? Take look at the deep shadow to the right of the falls. The iPhone pulls out more detail in the shadow. Again, yes, I can try to fix that in Photoshop, and again, yes I've already done that in the Fuji's picture. The difference is that modern iPhone are actually doing exposure stacking, automatically combining multiple images capture immediate after each other at different exposure values to show more detail in areas of deep shadow. Doing this with a conventional camera involves a technique called HDR— high dynamic range— that requires some manual steps in addition to special software. The iPhone just does it automatically and gives you the result without you even having to think about it.

Okay, so rich colors in good light are nice, but what else can the heavy, bulky camera do? Well, I like to bring it whenever I know I'll be seeing waterfalls, because it can capture motion-blurred water.

Tumalo Falls, Deschutes National Forest (Jul 2025)

Here's a photo from the same vantage point again but with the camera set to make an exposure lasting 0.25 sec. Relative to that speed the water is moving very fast, so it blurs into an appearance like silk sheets, while the trees' leaves move only slightly and the rocks move not at all.

Achieving this blur effect requires a few pieces of equipment and a degree of control over the camera. The key piece of equipment is a neutral density (ND) filter, a lens attachment that blocks out most of the light. This allows the camera to be set with a very slow shutter speed and not capture an image that's all washed-out white from so much light hitting the sensor. Remember, photography is the art and science of captured light. Capture too little, the picture's all black. Capture too much, the picture's all white. I'm using an ND filter that blocks 98.5% of the light. (Why 98.5%? That's an approximation. It's actually passing through 1/64, or 1/26, of the light. This is called a 6 stop ND filter. Every "stop" is a factor of 1/2.)

While this extra gear is fun to use effectively it's also a minor nuisance to use. Or, more specifically, switching in and out of the gear is a nuisance. The filters screw on and off the front of my lenses, and I have a little pouch to keep them in when they're not screwed on a lens. Going back and forth between "filter is screwed on" and "filter is off, and stowed" is time consuming. And on the trail it's also a bit dangerous. What if I drop a filter? The big ones aren't cheap. And when they get dirty I have to clean them— which while hiking is also a nuisance.

Thus I decided after doing the screw-it-on/screw-it-off thing at the viewpoint near the trailhead I would just leave the ND filters on the lenses on my Fujifilm camera. I'd use my iPhone for standard snaps and my Fuji for the specialized blur shots. BTW, that's how pro photographers roll. When you see them juggling multiple cameras at an event, it's because the camera are set up to do different things really well, and it's easier to swap cameras between shots than to reconfigure the gear. So, for the rest of the hike I rolled like a pro. 😅


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #3
La Pine, OR - Tue, 1 Jul 2025, 4:30pm

Tuesday afternoon on our trip I finished work early— yes, Tuesday was a work day for me— and we headed out for an afternoon hike. We picked Paulina Falls in the Newberry National Volcanic Monument. It was basically on our way from Klamath Falls to Bend for the night.

Paulina Falls upper viewpoint (Jul 2025)

Paulina Falls is a short hike from the trailhead. And by short I mean the upper viewpoint shown in the pic above is about 150 meters from the parking lot. It's a walk in the park. We had the place virtually to ourselves, though, because a) today's a weekday and b) the weather is turning crummy. It's been kind of overcast all day, but on our drive up to the higher elevations here (we're at about 6,300' vs. down in the valley at 4,200') it's started to sprinkle rain. The rain's not enough to bother us. We simply pulled on our light rain jackets for the hike.

Speaking of hike, yes, there is more than just the 150 meter stroll to the upper viewpoint. There's also the lower viewpoint.

Paulina Falls lower viewpoint (Jul 2025)

The lower viewpoint is an easy walk down a switchback path along the side of the canyon. It's a bit a huff-and-puff trek back up, though, especially for us, not acclimated to the altitude of over a mile.

These falls are fed by water from Paulina Lake. Unlike some double falls we've seen where the two falls are actually different creek that happen to meet as they fall over the same mountain, this is actually one creek. It just splits around some rocks upstream and falls over this cliff in two places. You can read more about the geology of the area in my blog from our last visit here... six years ago.

Paulina Falls unofficial middle viewpoint (Jul 2025)

Something I did this time that's a bit different from six years ago was venturing out on an unofficial middle viewpoint. You see, there are well designated spots for the upper and lower viewpoint. But IMO the best vantage for seeing the falls is from one of the switchbacks on the canyon trail down to the lower viewpoint. And it's not just at the switchback but maybe 30' around the canyon wall from it, over a brush pile designed to keep people out and then hopping and climbing along some precarious perches on the canyon wall. Oh, you daredevil, me.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #22
Misery Ridge, OR - Sat, 5 Jul 2025, 3pm

We're hiking the Misery Ridge trail. You know we had to take pictures like this.

Hiking the Misery Ridge trail at Smith Rock State Park (Jul 2025)

But really we weren't miserable. At least not yet, while we were at the top of the ridge. 🤣 There were so many beautiful sights up there!

I already wrote about the hike around the river and the climb to Monkey Face (previous blog entry). Here's another view of Monkey Face:

Views from atop Misery Ridge at Smith Rock State Park (Jul 2025)

This one's with anonymous hiker standing where I posed for my selfie in the previous blog.

That snow capped peak in the distance is Mt. Jefferson, BTW. It's one of seven volcanic peaks in the Oregon Cascades you can see from up here, including all three of the Three Sisters.

Views from atop Misery Ridge at Smith Rock State Park (Jul 2025)

There are other views from atop Misery Ridge beside the Monkey Face. This is that forbiddingly steep dark ridge that looms over the river. From here it looks like I could hike down to it and skip along its top.

But I didn't. Because, while the hike up here wasn't exactly miserable it also wasn't... a walk in the park. 🤣 It was hard. And I wanted to rest.

Resting atop Misery Ridge... this tree serves as my dressing stand (Jul 2025)

Hawk sat down on a bench with a view over Monkey Face while I hiked down to it. When I came back I didn't want to sit, exactly. I was concerned if I sat I might not want to stand back up... and hike all the way down the mountain. So I stood. In the shade. And used this tree as my dressing stand to take the weight off my pack off my back while I stretched.

Soon enough it was time to start down. This being the Misery Ridge loop route we selected, we didn't have to double back the way we came. There was still more trail ahead of us.

Descending Misery Ridge at Smith Rock State Park (Jul 2025)

That trail ahead of us was the steep part of the trail. The part that does countless switchbacks up the front face of Smith Rock. From the top it's no less steep... though it is at least down.

Going down still doesn't make it "a walk in the park". Going down a steep trail is a toe-jamming, knee-jarring, try-not-to-slip affair. Hawk and I did it mostly in silence.

Descending Misery Ridge at Smith Rock State Park (Jul 2025)

The last bit down the steep switchbacks reminds of playing Donkey Kong. This is what it would have looked like from the ape's point of view. Maybe that's why the rock at the top looks like a monkey face!

When we crossed the bridge at the bottom of the canyon I rested up at that round oasis for a bit. This time I did sit... because I needed to regain strength for the 200' climb up and out of the canyon. While sitting there I chatted with some climbers about the day's beautiful weather. "It's hot out here, is it 90°?" one asked the other. "No, it's only 75," the second answered. I chimed in that 75 was correct, adding that it certainly feels like 90 because of the sun exposure. "And I'm so glad we hiked today when it's not actually 90, like it was a few days ago," I quipped. Yeah, it would've been a lot tougher on us if we'd done this hike on Tuesday like we'd originally planned.

Hawk caught up to me at the oasis. I didn't realized how far she'd fallen behind. She was in bad shape from the steep descent. I took her pack for the climb out. I think for her this was the Misery Ridge part of the trek. For me it was... well, I chose not to form an opinion of it. It was just the last thing we had to do to finish an otherwise amazing hike. In beauty I walk... even if I'm hobbling at the end 

I'm jotting down these notes as we're stopped just outside the park. There's an ice cream store here! Middle of nowhere, and someone has the bright idea to build an ice cream shop right next to desert-y park where everyone comes out hot and tired and hungry from hiking. Brilliant!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #21
Misery Ridge, OR - Sat, 5 Jul 2025, 1pm

Today we finally did our "big hike" near Bend. It's the one we put off for two days already, and did lighter-duty hiking instead, because one or both of us felt tired, or the weather sucked. It's a loop trail at Smith Rock State Park 25 miles north of Bend, and it crosses over the aptly named Misery Ridge.

Smith Rock State Park, Oregon (July 2025)

Just to look at Smith Rock is to think, "Oh, yeah, I totally want to hike that!" Then you see the switchback trail (far right) coming down around the side of the big ridge and realized that it's going to be a serious undertaking. And that's only part of the climb. Oh, and you're starting on a ridge across the river, descending 200' just to start— which means after you climb up and over the ridge and come back down, you get the added misery of having to climb another ridge just to get out. Fun, fun, fun!

Walking along the river at Smith Rock State Park (Jul 2025)

A park ranger we talked to at the visitors center recommended we hike the loop "backwards" from how most people do it and the map on AllTrails.com shows. Instead of climbing those steep switchbacks first, with zero shade, she suggested we hike the loop around the base of the rocks along the river and take the ascent up the back side. The backside would offer a more gradual ascent, she said.

The river walk was beautiful, and easy— though the 75° weather under high desert sun felt like 90°. Soon enough it was time to climb.

Ascending switchbacks toward Monkey Face at Smith Rock State Park (Jul 2025)

The switchbacks on the back side of the ridge ascend beneath an interesting rock formation called Monkey Face. You can kind of see it from this angle.... The monkey's face is atop that spire, facing left.

The Monkey Face at Smith Rock State Park (Jul 2025)

Once atop Misery Ridge I took a short spur down to the rocks immediately across from Monkey Face. The spire bears both more and less resemblance to its namesake from this angle.

Whew! The hard part is done, right? Oh, wait, there's that toe-jamming descent down the front side of the ridge, then the climb out from the river. Stay tuned for more!

Update: More of Misery Ridge in part 2!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
After two days of feeling like a slug, mostly staying at home on my four-day weekend I had a definite not-slug day today. Hawk and I drove out to the Point Pinole Regional Shoreline park in Richmond, California for a hike. Mind you, Hawk is still getting over a bout of bronchitis, so doing this hike today was a big deal for her.

Point Pinole is not the kind of place you see on a map and say, "Ooh, let's go there!" That's mostly because it's not the kind of place you see on a map. It's an out-of-the-way park in in Richmond, California, a suburb of Oakland and San Francisco. It's behind a county juvenile detention facility, on the site of a former dynamite factory that closed up 65 years ago.

The fact that it's out of the way is kind of cool. That means it's not thronged with visitors even on a beautiful Saturday on a holiday weekend. Oh, there were plenty of people at the park with us today. But the ample parking lots were not full.

We started from the parking lot up a hill on a paved road and then over a bridge across train tracks. This was easily the worst part of the 5 or so miles we hiked. Fortunately it was also short. Once across the bridge we left the paved road and ambled down to a shoreline trail tracing around the west side of Point Pinole.

Hiking the Shoreline Trail at Point Pinole in Richmond, California (Jun 2025)

After the paved road being the worst part of the hike, this stroll along the western shore and then the bluffs above it was the best. From here we could see clear across the bay to the hillside of Marin County, including Mt. Tamalpais in the distance.

We traced along this side of the promontory for maybe two miles until we reached the tip of Point Pinole.

The Pier at Point Pinole in Richmond, California (Jun 2025)

Here there's a fishing pier. It wasn't too busy with fishers today as, presumably, a) it's far from the nearest place where one can park, and b) it was very windy out on the pier when we walked even 50 feet out from the shore. Beyond the fishing pier, to the right in the photo above, are the remnants of an older pier. It was used by the Giant Company, the dynamite manufacturer previously located here. Cases of dynamite were transported on local rail out to the tip of the point, then on conveyor belts to small ships docked at the pier. The small ships would transport it to freighters out in the San Francisco Bay, from where it would be shipped to places around the Pacific Rim, from Mexico to Chile to the Philippines and beyond.

From here we hiked back on the other side of the triangular peninsula. The west side has saltwater marshes (i.e., swamps) along the coast, which are protected— and frankly wouldn't be fun to hike through anyway— so we didn't enjoy views from as close to the water.
canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
On Sunday it wasn't just "Screw being sick, I'm going to the hot tub". After a week of being too tired from jetlag and busy-ness at work to do anything relaxing other than sleep I was getting stir-crazy; stir-crazy in a way that just going to the pool wasn't enough to rectify. For a few weekends before our trip to Italy I was yearning to get outside for a hike locally. Alas, one or both of us was always too tired then, too. And now this weekend I'm sick? Screw being sick, I'm going hiking!

Hawk, mindful of the fact I'm struggling through being sick with a cold, suggested we could hike at Byxbee Park, a nearby favorite at the edge of the bay that's flat and has plenty of options for short hikes. I countered that No, I've been yearning for something further afield. So we headed up into the mountains for another regional favorite, Russian Ridge in the Mid-Peninsula Open Space District ("Mr. OSD")

Russian Ridge MROSD above Palo Alto (Jun 2025)

As always, I like Russian Ridge because of the sweeping views it provides from atop a ridge in the coast range mountains. From the east side of the ridge (not quite pictured above 😂) you can see all around the San Francisco Bay, from San Francisco itself in the north to San Jose in the south, to Mt. Diablo and Mt. Hamilton in the mountains on the other side of the bay.

Oh, and from this side of the ridge...

Russian Ridge above Palo Alto with views out to the Pacific (Jun 2025)

...You can see out across the Pacific Ocean. Which is all socked in with fog today, as it often is. That's one reason why we're rarely like, "Let's go to the ocean!" when we live less than an hour away. Most days the view's better up here in the mountains.

BTW, that mountain near the middle of the frame above is Mindego Hill. After seeing it in this vista from Russian Ridge for years we figured out how to hike it a few years ago. Seeing it this weekend reminds me that we should plan another trek out there.

Hiking Russian Ridge above Palo Alto (Jun 2025)

Most of our past several trips to Russian Ridge we've come up here earlier in the spring, or even in the winter. That's because it can be hot in the summer, and the grasses are all brown. We were surprised it wasn't all brown already here in June. And there are wildflowers, too. Not a lot, but definitely patches here and there. We thought they'd all have burned off by now.

Russian Ridge MROSD above Palo Alto (Jun 2025)

Even when we aren't gazing at far-off views from the trail, Russian Ridge is just such a mellow place to hike. Partly that's because there are a lot of rules here. Dogs are prohibited and there are speed limits for bikes, for example. Rangers enforce the rules. We met a ranger at the start of the hike and chatted about things. No, he doesn't spend his whole day writing speeding tickets for dogs and cyclists. Sadly his most common trouble call is some speeding dipshit wrecking their car or motorcycle on the highway outside the preserve. It's technically outside his jurisdiction as a ranger, but when there's an accident and an injured person up in the mountains, the closest emergency responders answer the call. FWIW, I own a sports car, and on a beautiful day like this I think it's lovely to drive the speed limit and enjoy the beauty all around me.

Wildflowers late in the spring along Russian Ridge (Jun 2025)

I began this hike with a particular route in mind, one that traverses many of the highlights of the area without being too long or having too much climbing. Partway into the hike I was feeling bullish and thought maybe I'd extend the loop. That's another one of the great things about Russian Ridge— there are a bunch of connected trails here, making it easy to hike a longer route or cut it short.

Alas, though I was feeling bullish partway into the trail, by the time I got to the bottom of the hill I realized there was no way I was going manage the long version today. It'd take my remaining energy just to get back to the trailhead via the shortest route. That's not bad, though. I did 2+ miles and several hundred feet of ascent while sick with a cold!

In beauty I walk. Even if I'm achy and coughing up phlegm.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Today we took advantage of spring weather getting a bit warmer and journeyed out to Zim Zim Falls. It's a surprisingly tall waterfalls, over 100' tall, in remote Napa County on the edge of the Bay Area. And I say again because we've turned it into an annual right of spring passage. We hiked Zim Zim last year in late May and in late March 2023. One of the standout things about the hike to Zim Zim is that in addition to seeing a tall falls, the hike to/from it involves 9 water crossings each way. ...And that's just the hike! The drive to the trailhead involves a few water crossings, too, though today only one had water in it.

I'll post photos and video this coming week when I have time to work on them.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Georgia Travelog #22
Helton Creek - Saturday, 12 Apr 2025, 6pm

Wow, what a packed day. We've done five hikes today in the Appalachian Mountains of northern Georgia. I knew it was an aggressive plan to begin with. Then, when hiking Anna Ruby Falls, getting lunch in tourist-trappy Helen, and driving to finding the trail for Horse Trough Falls all took a bit longer than expected, I fretted that one of these last two hikes would fall off the schedule. Nope! We made quick work of Trahlyta Falls, leaving just enough time to get over here (not that far away) to Helton Creek Falls.

The drive out to the trailhead seemed a bit strange. We turned off from four lane highway US-19 as it was climbing toward a mountain pass onto a narrow road that wound around through a deep-woods retirement/vacation home community. After a mile or so the road turned to packed dirt and gravel as it crossed onto National Forest land. There was little indication this was the route to a hiking trail except for one sign halfway down the road, then a small sign at a wide spot in the road big enough for 5-6 cars to park. From there a trail dropped to Helton Creek.

Helton Creek Falls, Chattahoochee National Forest (Apr 2025)

The trail description on AllTrails says it's a climb of 19'. That's wrong by 4-5x as it's more like 80-100' of climbing; half on the way in and half on the way out, as the trail both goes down to the bottom of the creek then ascends to two sets of falls. We didn't mind the extra climbing because the sights were worth it. Being right down at the water's edge below the lower falls (photo above) was nice.

Helton Creek Falls, Chattahoochee National Forest (Apr 2025)

Also nice was the view of the upper falls from a wooden observation deck. This remote and not well signed falls has received some love recently from the Forest Service. The trail is spiffed up with wooden beams forming the steep and otherwise slippery parts of the trail into steps, and there's a wooden deck here that widens what would otherwise be a muddy viewpoint big enough for 2-3 people into tidy space for 6-8.

Now we're back at the car and ready to head home. ...Well, not home, but Atlanta. We'll stay in a hotel near the airport tonight before flying home-home tomorrow. I'm concerned it'll be upwards of 3 hours of driving tonight, plus however long we stop for dinner. I won't know the driving distance or ETA until we get back up out of this canyon into an area with cell signal. Update: The drive to Atlanta was just 2 hours plus a stop for dinner. Nice!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Georgia Travelog #21
Vogel State Park - Saturday, 12 Apr 2025, 5:30pm

It's getting late. It's 5:30pm already, an hour at which I've become accustomed to thinking, "Welp, that's the last of the useful light for the day." But that's the great thing about the post-Daylight Saving Time spring.... Sunset isn't 'til just after 8pm today! And use the saved daylight we will. We've just finished our fourth outdoors activity today, and we've still got one more short hike to go.

The one we've just finished is Trahlyta Falls in Vogel State Park.

Trahlyta Falls, Vogel State Park, Georgia (Apr 2025)

There's a trail from the park's lake (above the falls) down to that viewing platform near the bottom. The park's kind of a mess right now with construction, though, and we realized we could save ourselves some huffing and puffing, too, by checking out the falls from here— from a roadside pull-out on US 19. That's right: this "hike" was a matter of simply stopping the car on the side of the highway, hopping out, and walking about 20 meters back to find the best vantage point.

In beauty I walk... even when all I do is hop out of the car. 😂

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Georgia Travelog #20
Hiawassee - Saturday, 12 Apr 2025, 4:30pm

Most of the hikes we've been doing this trip involve waterfalls. While we love waterfalls, we're not one-note hikers. Peaks, ridges, canyons, etc. are all fun to see, too. When I was researching our two previous hikes today, the amazing double feature of Anna Ruby Falls and the inaptly named Horse Trough Falls, I saw on the map that Brasstown Bald, the highest point in Georgia, was nearby. How could we not bag the highest peak in the state while we're in the area?

Brasstown Bald, the highest point in Georgia (Apr 2025)

Bagging Brasstown Bald doesn't even require a hike, per se. A public road leads to a visitors center 420' below the peak. From there one could hike the remaining elevation... or ride one of the park shuttles for $3. It was already late in the day when we arrived (after 4pm) and we still want to hike two more hikes, short ones, after this, so we opted for the shuttle.

Brasstown Bald, the highest point in Georgia (Apr 2025)

Atop the mountain is another visitors center, a smaller one, with a rooftop deck that provides 360° views. The elevation here is 4,784' (1,458 m).

Brasstown Bald, the highest point in Georgia (Apr 2025)

The view back down across the parking lot shows how much toil we saved by not hiking up. We considered hiking down but chose not to. We figured 1) the walk through the forest wouldn't be very pretty with most of the trees still brown from the winter— at this elevation the seasons are similar to Winnipeg, Canada— and 2) we've still got 2 more hikes we want to do, and daylight won't last forever!

A view of three states from Brasstown Bald, the highest point in Georgia (Apr 2025)

I mentioned there are views in all directions from the top. This one (above) I found especially interesting because it's a view across 3 states. The near mountain ridge and the broad valley dotted with lakes are part of Georgia. The tall mountains in the mid-ground are in North Carolina. And the mountain in the far distance, appearing smoky gray, is Clingmans Dome, the highest point in Tennessee, at elev. 6,644' (2,025 m).


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Georgia Travelog #19
Helen - Saturday, 12 Apr 2025, 3:30pm

Our second hike today was Horse Trough Falls a bit outside of Helen, GA. Geez, the day's more than half over, and we've only done two hikes out of four planned. We're not even that far— as the crow flies— from our previous hike, the amazing Anna Ruby Falls. Where did all the time go? Well, for one, we drove back down to Helen to enjoy a sit-down lunch after Anna Ruby. And two, on the way back out here we took a... um, scenic route... through the forest.

Yeah, Apple Maps gave us a bum steer getting to the trailhead. I refuse to say we got lost— because I always knew where we were. We just weren't where we wanted to be and weren't always 100% sure which route would get us there. 🤣 The difference between the mapped directions and the route I ended up driving was over 9 miles of Forest Service road.

"Only 9 miles?" you may ask. "What's the big deal?" The big deal is it's 9 miles of dirt road. Eight miles of dirt road with extremely spotty cell service to figure out where we are on a map. Fortunately my wilderness and 4x4 skill that got us across the dirt roads with no worries also gave me enough confidence with reading the (rarely there) map and the lay of the land to get to the right place.

Upper Chattahoochee River Campground (Apr 2025)

The right place? That's the Upper Chattahoochee River Campground. And while the... scenic route... we took to get there was often deserted, there were two other cars at the trailhead when we arrived. A few more had arrived by the time we returned. I'm virtually certain they all came in the easier way. It's only 2 miles of dirt road that way.

Trail to Horse Trough Falls (Apr 2025)

Most of the hiking trail is a gated off road that goes through the campground. A small paper sign at the front indicates that the campground "will" open in late March, 2025. And here it is, two weeks later, still chained shut. Oops. Probably the people responsible for opening the campground were fired by DOGE. 🤬

As much of an adventure driving here was, the walk to Horse Trough Falls was easy.  The gravel road through the campground was actually a better driving route than the route we actually drove to get here. But it was a pleasant walk in the woods with a brilliant blue sky overhead. I'd say the blue sky is because we're up in the mountains... except we're not "up" that much by California standards. The trailhead's at 2,200' elevation.

Horse Trough Falls, Chattahoochee National Forest (Apr 2025)

Horse Trough Falls was bigger than I was expecting. What was I expecting? I dunno; but with a name like horse trough I guess I was prepared for it being like someone spitting in a bucket. Instead it's easily 30' high and with plenty of water flowing.

Horse Trough Falls, Chattahoochee National Forest (Apr 2025)

In beauty I walk.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Georgia Travelog #18
Helen - Saturday, 12 Apr 2025, 12pm

Another day, another string of waterfall treks here in the Appalachian Mountains of north Georgia. Today I hope will work out better, weather-wise, than yesterday. The forecast shows sun all day.

Our first hike today was Anna Ruby Falls. It's in the Chattahoochee-Oconee National Forest, though to get to it we had to drive through Unicoi State Park. Fortunately there's no fee collected by the state for us passers-through. There's just a fee for collected by the US government. I know, *grumble* *grumble*, why's there a fee. Just pay it and be glad you did when you see how beautiful Anna Ruby Falls is— and that there's a big, well maintained parking lot here and a nice visitors center, too.



A paved trail leads about 0.5 mile uphill from the visitors center. Informational signs along the way explain the geology and flora and fauna of the area. At the top of the trail three observation decks provide plenty of vantage points to view the falls. This video is recorded from one of the platforms.

Curiously Anna Ruby Falls is not one but two falls. Two different creeks, York Creek and Curtis Creek, tumble over rocky ledges and combine at the bottom to form Smith Creek. A double falls like this is a rare thing.

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