canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #28
Campbellville, ON · Fri, 29 Aug 2025. 12:30pm.

This morning we packed to go. ...Not just go hiking but also go home. We figure we'll cool our heels at the airport for a few hours later today— our flight doesn't depart until 7pm— by taking advantage of lounge access. Yay, elite status. But first there was one more hike we put on our list, Hilton Falls.

It's convenient that Hilton Falls isn't too badly out of our way. It's an easy drive from here to YYZ airport. When I mapped it out I asked Hawk, "Wait, why didn't we do this first, on Monday, when we were coming from next to the airport?"

Money. The answer was money. This little park charges an outsized fee. For the two of us it was C$27.12. Okay, that's just under $20 US, but it's still a lot for a small park. And it also has a reservations system. C'mon, this isn't Yosemite!

When I read up on the park this morning the website said that reservations are not required, so we figured we'd give it a try. I mean, arriving at 10:30 on a weekday we didn't expect too many crowds.

In fact there were only a few other cars in the parking lot when we arrived. That didn't stop the gate attendant from saying, "Reservation?" as the first word out of her mouth. 🙄 I said No, presented a card for payment, and we parked in the first space next to the visitors center... which wasn't even staffed. For US$20 we don't even get a ranger/docent to talk to, just a ticket-taker? 😡

We checked our packs, shrugged on our light jackets (it was a bit cool this morning), and set off up the trail.

Hilton Falls, Ontario (Aug 2025)

By now you've probably had enough with the wall of text, so here's a waterfall photo. 🤣 The trail back to the falls is about a mile each way. ...Well, it's about a mile via the shortest path. There are multiple ways to get there from here. I guess for C$27.12 per couple they could afford to build a bunch of trails.

Next to the falls are the remnants of an old mill. If I'd made the picture above with a really wide angle lens you'd see the stone foundation over to the left. It last operated over 100 years ago so there's very little of it left now.

But I did climb up what little was left, basically just the stone foundation, to enjoy the falls from a slightly different perspective.

Hilton Falls, Ontario (Aug 2025)

I only sat at this perch for 10 minutes, but while I did the falls area got crowded. When we arrived there were just 2 small groups here, a solo hiker and a man with two young kids. By the time we left there were 20 people and at least 1 dog milling around below the falls. I guess it's a good thing we arrived at 10:30am otherwise we might have needed a reservation!

Well, now we're back at the parking lot. We did pass a few more hikers headed in while we were hiking out. Parking's still not all that crowded, though. I guess it's just that everyone is here for the falls. We took advantage of the underutilized visitors center to change out of hiking clothes into street clothes. Now our bags are all packed and it's time to head to the airport for the journey home.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #27
Back at the hotel · Thu, 28 Aug 2025. 4pm.

Today we visited one waterfalls, Felker's Falls. Well, we tried to visit others, but they were dry. Even though it's been raining today. Yeah, this is like the worst combination of conditions for waterfall hikes: the waterfalls are dry while we get soaked. 👎

Felker's Falls is in a city park in Hamilton. It's such a low key area. It's behind a children's playground in a suburban neighborhood. We parked by the trashcans, walked past the jungle gym, and to the hiking trails at the back.

"Are we in the right place?" we wondered. Then we saw fences everywhere and knew we were. 🤣

Felker's Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

We followed once fenced path a short distance around the falls where the view was poor then doubled back to hike another fenced path on the other side.

We briefly entertained the question Can we hike to the bottom? It would be too steep going down the side of the canyon from above. The maps and a description on AllTrails imply we could partly hike an established trail, partly rock-hop up the creek from the bottom; but the weather was darkening and these falls just weren't big enough to be worth it. We decided to content ourselves with this view.

At Felker's Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

It's good we decided to be content here, because on our (short) walk back to the car it started to rain. And I don't just mean a drizzle or misty rain. We were dressed for that. No, it started to pour. We got to the car, hung our rain jackets to dry over our seat backs, and drove on to the next location.

I don't even remember now what the name of the next falls we visited was. It was out past Devil's Punchbowl— or, as I've been calling it since visiting there on Monday, Devil's Dustbowl. It was dry. We decided to pack it in for the day, ate lunch down the hill in town, then drove back out to the hotel.

Now we're back at the hotel. We figure we'll chill here for the rest of the day. We've kind of run out of things to do since dry balls cut short our list of activities. We're petered out at this point.

At least there's one more falls we can visit tomorrow before we go home, when the weather should be better again. Hawk put that falls near the bottom of the list because it charges a hefty entrance fee and has a reservation system. But we're scraping bottom here, so it's what's left on the list.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #25
Niagara Falls, ON · Wed, 27 Aug 2025. 3pm.

For our visit to Niagara Falls today we planned three activities. One, we'd do a boat tour into the mist of the falls. Two, we'd do the "Journey Behind the Falls" tour. Three, aside from the first two which required tickets, we'd do general sightseeing. for free. Well, we arrived early and did some of #3 right off the bat. Then we boarded and earlier sailing for the boat tour and completed #1. That left us with just our later-in-the-afternoon tickets for #3. It was getting to around noon so we decided to grab some lunch first.

One of the things I remember from visiting Niagara Falls as a child years ago— really, decades ago— is the debate between, "Which side is better, the US or Canadian side?"

As a child, my parents warned me that the US side would be full of honky-tonk while the Canadian side would be beautiful parks. My actual experience as a child turned out to be the complete opposite. On the US side we saw nothing but parks right up near the falls. When we crossed the Friendship Bridge to the Canadian side, it was nothing but an endless carnival midway of rigged games and overpriced kitschy crap.

So far today I've figured out that my parents were half right— there are parks on the Canadian side. Beautiful parks all along the edge of the canyon. Except right at the foot of the bridge, which is a tourist shit show that stretches several blocks. Well, that's where we went for lunch today. 😂 That's how I know it's still there. We walked around enough to find a relatively not-tourist-trap restaurant and then walked back down the hill to where the parks are.

Then we walked toward the Horseshoe Falls to Table Rock. That's where the Journey Behind the Falls tour is. We swapped our later-in-the-day tickets for a tour departing earlier and waited in line. Here's a video of the highlights from the Journey Behind the Falls:



Overall this tour was interesting but not really worth it. When we were actually behind the falls, peering through two large "windows" in the underground tunnels, the water was pounding so hard we could barely anything. And the lines to get to the front were ridiculously long. The view from the outdoors platform near the bottom of the falls was nice, but given that we'd already done the Maid of the Mist boat tour it didn't really add anything.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #24
Niagara Falls, ON · Wed, 27 Aug 2025. 11:30am.

I mentioned in my previous blog about Niagara Falls that one of my fondest memories from visiting when I was a kid was riding the Maid of the Mist boat tour down in the canyon. When Hawk and I visited her long-lost relatives in Toronto earlier in the week, and we told them about our plans to visit waterfalls in Ontario, they all told us we shouldn't miss the Maid of the Mist tour.

Funny little detail: the Maid of the Mist is a tour that operates from the US side of the border. There's an almost identical tour that operates from the Canadian side, where we are this week. It just doesn't have the catchy name "Maid of the Mist". It actually has a pretty stupid name, like "Niagara City Cruise", or something like that. I mean, WTF? It's not a city cruise. There's no city down here in the canyon. Just enormous waterfalls to look up at!

Well, either way, it was at the top of our list. We booked tickets a few nights ago for the cruise today.

Embarking on a quick cruise at Niagara Falls (Aug 2025)

One thing I remember about the Maid of the Mist cruise decades ago is that the tour operator gave us heavy-duty rain slickers, the kind you see ocean going fishermen wearing in old-timey pictures. Well, those expensive slickers are no more. Now they give passengers cheap but colorful trash bags. And no, it's not any better on the US side than here in Canada. The Americans just have blue trash bags.

As the boat neared the first falls and started to pick up a lot of spray I realized that my fancy camera wasn't going to do well. I packed it away under my trash bag poncho and relied on my iPhone for the rest of the trip. The good news is that means it was easy to record video of the falls.



Here's a 3 minute montage of the highlights of the cruise. We first go past the American side of the falls, then into the Horseshoe Falls which are split by the international border, then back past the American Falls as we return to dock.

As cheap as the trash bags were compared to the old-timey rain slickers of years ago, they got the job done. They kept our torsos dry as we got pounded with lots of spray for a few minutes. Our legs and feet took a good drenching, but that was okay as we wore quick-drying hiking clothes knowing we'd get sprayed by the mist, and it was warm out in the middle of the day anyway.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #23
Niagara Falls, ON · Wed, 27 Aug 2025. 10:45am.

Today we're visiting Niagara Falls in Canada. Both Hawk and I have been to Niagara Falls before, but it was a) on the US side and b) when we were kids. She visited with her family when she was 18. I visited with mine when I was... 10, I think. It was a long time ago!

We've blocked the whole day to spend visiting the falls. We even got up early and had a quick breakfast in the room so we could get out faster. Was that necessary? Strictly speaking, no. We got here with plenty of time to spare. But it's beautiful here so, yes, it's time well spent.

After a bit of circling to find parking once we got to the falls we found a primo spot in the park less than a block from the edge of the cliff. Better yet, the spot was just $24 for all day. Converting that from CAD to "real" money 🤣 it's just under $17.50.

Niagara Falls US side, viewed from Canada (Aug 2025)

The best part about where we parked was it was just steps to the edge of the canyon and all the views. The photo above shows the American side of Niagara Falls. The boat in the water is the Maid of the Mist, a ferry that carries passengers past both the American Falls and the Horseshoe Falls (next photo).

Horseshoe Falls part of Niagara Falls, seen from Table Rock, Ontario (Aug 2025)

The Horseshoe Falls are right here next to us, too, on the Canadian side. Having been to Niagara from both sides (US and Canada) now I can say that the Canadian side is way better. It's not a cultural thing; it's that the views are way better! It just so much easier to see everything from here. And the fact that there's basically a city park that stretches 1 km along the top of the cliff makes it so easy to appreciate the natural beauty.

Here's a short video of what you can see from a single vantage point in Niagara Falls, Canada:



The ferry you see in the mist of the Horseshoe Falls is not the Maid of the Mist, it's the Niagara City Cruise. What's the difference? Maid of the Mist departs from a dock on the US side, Niagara City operates from the Canadian side. How can you tell which is which? The colors! The US ferry operator gives everyone blue ponchos, the Canada ferry kits them out in red.

Horseshoe Falls part of Niagara Falls, seen from Table Rock, Ontario (Aug 2025)

I remember fondly riding Maid of the Mist when I was 10. For me it was the high point of our family trip to Niagara Falls. And now Hawk and I are going to do it again, together. We've got tickets for later today, but since we're here early we'll see if we can join and earlier boarding and have more time later in the day for more sightseeing.

canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Canada travelog #21
Back at the hotel · Tue, 26 Aug 2025. 10:30pm.

Today finished on a good note, hiking-wise. We hiked two two-fers, for a total of 4 waterfalls: Albion and Buttermilk Falls, then Sherman Falls and Tiffany Falls. All was not good, though, as at the start of the day we had a problem with dry balls. And it wasn't just Ball's Falls that were dry but several others we had on our list to visit, too. While driving around during the day we decided it'd make sense to cut our visit to Canada short as we'll run out of things we want to do well before Sunday.

Tonight, after dinner and a soak in the hot tub, while Hawk was snoozing (she hasn't slept well recently) I rebooked our flights and shortened our hotel stay and car rental. The plan now is we'll go home Friday night instead of Sunday night.

What's the Cost?

Hawk agreed to leaving early provided the cost of rebooking plans wasn't significant. Cost was a major factor for me, too. If going home early is just a cost sink, we could figure out something to do in Ontario. The numbers work out such that, at worst, it's a wash, dollar-wise— but we still get two days of time back. And, best case, we save a few hundred bucks. Here's the math on the costs:

  • Departing hotel 2 days earlier: $327 savings

  • Returning rental car 2 days earlier: $104 savings

  • Figuring the cost of rebooking flights is a bit tougher as I bought one on cash and one on points. Mine, paid with cash, cost $260 more than my original flight. Hawk's flight I got for 15,000 points, with a travel credit of $271 net she can use within the next 11 months.

  • If Hawk can manage to use that credit before it expires, it's a great exchange for the 15,000 points we paid. $271 ÷ 15,000 = 1.8 cents per point (cpp), much better than the average value of 1.1cpp I value UA miles at.

Curiously, the numbers work out to a wash if Hawk's travel credit expires unused 11 months from now. If she can use it, then $271 is what we'll have saved by going home 2 days early.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #20
Hamilton, ON · Tue, 26 Aug 2025. 4:45pm.

As a second two-fer today we visited Tiffany Falls in Hamilton. It's not far down the road from Sherman Falls, which we finished hiking just minutes ago. But it is down the road— as in, hiking from one to the other would've meant hiking along the road. On a drizzly day when afternoon commute traffic is starting to pick up, hiking a road isn't fun. So we drove and parked near these falls.

It was a short walk up the canyon to the falls. Again, yay for trails that approach falls from below instead of above. A bonus is the city doesn't need to surround the cliffs with fences to prevent people from falling to their deaths.

Hawk explores Tiffany Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

At this falls there was even a nice viewing platform at the bottom of the canyon. I posted up there to make some photos while Hawk went on ahead to the bottom of the falls itself.

This photo (and the following) make it look like we had the place to ourselves. We did not. This being an easy trail with a huge payoff, there were a few other groups in there with us, even on a weekday afternoon.

One of the other hikers called out to me about the camera I was using. My Fujifilm X series gets occasional attention for its retro looks, with black panels on a silver body. People are curious if I'm shooting film. Going old-school with film cameras has become something of a fad among young photography enthusiasts the past several years. Me? I went digital over 20 years ago and haven't turned back.

The fellow photography enthusiast who struck up a conversation on this hike was a tad more interested in the pictures than the gear. Gear talk was the ice-breaker. He wanted to see some of my pictures. That's a good thing, and particularly wise for a young person such as himself. Good gear helps, but it's the skill of the person behind the lens that really matters. He was blown away by the photos I was making, such as the one above. He complimented my composition in particular. Modern camera technology can cover over a lot of weaknesses in a photographer's skills, but composition is not one of them. As we got to talking he expressed interest in my blog— yes, this blog— and chatted about other places each of us have been.

A selfie snapshot at Tiffany Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

After the photography talk and the compliments I felt I should sneak in a bit of a selfie. 🤣 Yes, I use my iPhone along with my dedicated camera on hikes like this. The dedicated camera captures those richly colored photos and offers filters and controls for motion-blur pictures of waterfalls.

Tiffany Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

For this shot I got up close and personal with the falls. I mean, I'm still standing about 10' away from the water, but it's a lot closer than the viewing platform or even where most people were hopping across the rocks to.

Tiffany Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

This last photo I made from the spot where most people were posing for photos in the canyon. As I noted above, it felt a bit crowded here today. There were at least a dozen other people around us. But I waited for a gap in traffic to capture the falls by themselves.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #19
Hamilton, ON · Tue, 26 Aug 2025. 4:15pm.

This afternoon we hiked Sherman Falls in Hamilton. It's the first half of our second two-fer today. After the bust with dry balls we found plenty of wetness over at Albion Falls and Buttermilk Falls. Now we're doing another two-fer with Sherman and Tiffany Falls. Except it's not quite a two-fer because although we could park once and hike both falls— the distance between the two is reasonable— why hike when we can drive? Especially when the trail between the two mostly just follows the road. And it's starting to rain.

The first bit of fun with hiking Sherman Falls was parking at Sherman Falls. If there's one thing the Hamilton region loves even more than putting fences around waterfalls, more than growing thorny vines over fences over fences around waterfalls, it's putting No Parking signs all up and down the streets near waterfalls. The damn things were growing wild like poison ivy in the summer. We parked in a designated lot almost 1/2 mile away. And we had to pay. Thankfully not $22.50 like yesterday, but also not cheap.

Me at Sherman Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

Although the sun is shining in this photo (above; you can see shade under the brim of my hat) it sure was dark as we hiked through the thick forest in the canyon up to Sherman Falls. Yes, this is finally a waterfall with a trail up the bottom of the canyon! Though honestly I think the reason the city hasn't fenced it off and forced us to view it only from safety above is that the land above is all privately owned. So it's already fenced— and the Parks & Rec people aren't allowed. 🤣

Sherman Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

There was one other small family at the falls when we arrived. We hung back a bit as they were crowding the scene vamping with duck-lipped poses for Insta or whatever. Once they were gone we had the falls to ourselves for about 15 minutes, before the next small group arrived. Doing these waterfalls hikes midweek definitely changes the crowding equation vs. our normal of hiking on Saturday and Sunday because we're working stiffs.

Sherman Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

Curiously there are two trails to Sherman Falls, one from the left and one from the right, and they do not join near the falls. If there was a footbridge over the stream in the past there's no sign of it now. Instead I found a place where the water was shallow a bit down from the falls and rock-hopped across. Hawk didn't want to chance getting wet feet and socks (we're wearing hiking sandals today; boots might have been a better choice) so we walked out opposite trails and met back at the road.

Up nextHiking Tiffany Falls


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #18
Hamilton, ON · Tue, 26 Aug 2025. 2:45pm.

The bad news today was dry balls. As in, we drove a long way to Balls Falls, and they were dry. Even worse, we found out a number of other falls we planned to hike this week are dry, too, and thus not worth visiting. At least we found that out before hiking all the way out to the falls. It's frustrating to hike all the way out somewhere just to get dry balls. And there are other falls on our list we can hike that aren't dry. Two we visited this afternoon back in Hamilton are Albion Falls and Buttermilk Falls.

Ironically for having bailed on Balls Falls because it was dry for the season, by the time we got back up to Hamilton for Albion Falls it was raining. At least it was a light rain and was already tapering off by the time we parked at the trailhead.

Albion Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

Albion Falls is part of a city park in Hamilton. There's no fee to enter, and even the parking is free. Bonus! Plus, you can see the falls from a pair of overlooks that are just steps from the parking.

(BTW I mentioned it had just rained when we startd hiking. This picture, showing some sunshine, is from when we got back to the car after finishing the hike. Yes, yet again it rained while we were hiking and became sunny once we were done! 😡)

When you have a druid on the city payroll (Aug 2025)

From the parking lot we walked first around to the opposite side of the gorge. On the way we saw that there used to be a trail going down into it. "Can we hike up a trail from the bottom to see the falls?" has been a recurring question of ours this week. Falls are often much better appreciated looking up from the foot rather than looking down from above. But the Hamilton area authorities have been aggressive about closing off gorge trails. The gorge trail at Webster Falls was closed pretty hard. Here it's obvious there used to be an official trail. In fact you can even see the stairs on the other side of the fence. But the gate is now locked... and a vine covered with thorns has been grown over it. Hamilton's so serious about keeping people away from nature they've got a druid on the payroll!

Albion Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

We walked around to the other side of the gorge. There's a vista called "Lovers' Leap". Though really it should be called "Lovers Prevented From Leaping By A 5' High Spiked Fence". At least the Lawful Neutral druids didn't grow thorn bushes over it.

After No-Leaping-Past-The-Fence we doubled back past the parking lot and continued the trail in the other direction. There's actually one very long trail, the Bruce Trail, that connects numerous waterfalls along the Niagara Escarpment. We hiked it only as far as the next falls over, Buttermilk Falls.

Buttermilk Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

The water is falling gently at this time of year, making Buttermilk Falls more of a Bridalveil Falls type of view. How do they come up with these names? I mean, bridalveil I totally get. But buttermilk? What about a waterfall makes people think, "Mmm, curdled milk?"

Buttermilk Falls in Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

As we headed back to our car I spotted a short side-trail that led to another view of Buttermilk Falls. It doesn't lead to a trail to the bottom of the falls. With the steep canyon here any trail down would be one of those "Watch the last step" deals. 😅 But it does give a perspective that's not quite as on top of the falls as the main viewing area.

After this we walked back to the car. It was awesome to see these two falls on one short hike, and right in the middle of town, too. But we're not done for the day. No; there's more to come!

Keep reading: Next we hike Sherman Falls, then Tiffany Falls.


canyonwalker: Uh-oh, physics (Wile E. Coyote)
Canada travelog #17
Beamsville, ON · Tue, 26 Aug 2025. 1pm.

For our first hike today we drove out to Ball's Falls near Beamsville, Ontario. It's most of the way to Niagara Falls and the US border. But we figured we'd start out here and work our way back to Hamilton as the day progresses. We've got tickets booked for Niagara Falls tomorrow.

Entry sign for Ball's Falls. Too bad the balls are dry. (Aug 2025)

There are two balls here. There's the upper ball, and the lower ball. Sadly they're dry balls. We found that out after we entered the park. Small, handwritten signs in the windows of the elaborate park office are like, "Sorry, our balls are dry."

We checked with the park attendant about the dryness. "It's supposed to rain Thursday," we noted. "Would the falls run again after a rain shower?"

No, she explained. The dryness is seasonal. Usually these balls stop flowing in July.

"What about other falls in the area?" Hawk asked. She rattled off at least 4 other falls on our list.

They're dry, too, the staffer informed us. It's something about how these falls south of Hamilton are stream-fed as opposed to lake-fed, or vice-versa.

Time to Call an Audible?

Well, dang. That just crossed off about 2 days worth of plans. On the drive back to Hamilton I asked Hawk, "With that many fewer places left to hike, what do you think about us going home a few days early?"

"Yeah, I'm thinking about it," Hawk said. "It depends on the costs."

Tonight we'll look at the costs of changing our flights and going home probably Friday night instead of Sunday.

Update: Tuesday night I rebooked our flights to go home Friday evening instead of Sunday. It's a bummer to cut short a vacation, but we feel we'll find more enjoyable things to do from home— including possibly going somewhere within California for the three-day holiday weekend— instead of staying in Canada.

canyonwalker: Uh-oh, physics (Wile E. Coyote)
Canada travelog #13
Hamilton, ON · Mon, 25 Aug 2025. 4pm.

Our first day of waterfall hiking near Hamilton, Ontario got off to a pretty good start with Webster Falls, then Tew Falls, then Webster Falls again. It got cloudy and rainy at our first visit to Webster, which is why I went back again. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you have to make your own luck. Our luck really hit the skids after that, though. We had a string of three fails midday.

Borer's Falls Bust

First, we tried to hike Borer's Falls. It could've been a three-fer up on the hill in Dundas as it was close to Webster and Tew Falls. But first the directions were flaky, pointing us to a spot on the road where there was absolutely no parking. Then we found parking nearby but, as we double- and triple checked trail notes to be sure we were in the right place, found that the trail was poor and didn't really give a view of the falls. We tried looking for some other supposed trailheads but they, too, amounted to a wild goose chase. We decided to get lunch in town and replan.

Mobile Phone Fail

In town, our phones crapped out on us. They both went into "SOS" mode, unable to find signal. Understand, we weren't in a small town in the middle of nowhere. We're in the Hamilton metro area, a major manufacturing hub in Ontario, Canada. And we were on the campus of McMaster University, one of Canada's leading universities. Researchers and students all around us were enjoying lightning fast 5G; our phones were like, "Derrr, tHeRe'S nO sIgNaL!" 😡

We feared this would turn into a mess like when our phones crapped out in Panama. We dreaded having to throw away the rest of the day by hobbling back to our hotel with no maps and then sitting on wifi call with Verizon for three hours troubleshooting why our phones suddenly stopped working in a major city overseas.

We were in an area with lots of cheap restaurants (college campus) so we decided to park and get lunch while figuring out how to get our phones un-fucked. Multiple variations on "Turn it off, turn it on again" hadn't worked. We wondered if maybe adding "and wait 15 minutes" as Step 2 might work. Basically it did! And we enjoyed some good, cheap eats, too. 😅

Devil's Dust Bowl

Feeling like we were back on track we looked at what was next on our list. It was getting toward mid afternoon already, so we didn't want to pick a long hike. Devil's Punch Bowls was the next short hike on our list. It's basically a drive-to. Except it's all dried out.

Devil's Punchbowl? More like Devil's Dustbowl. Hamilton, Ontario (Aug 2025)

Yeah, I'm glad we didn't hike more than 100 meters to see that. Or pay $22.50 to park. (We would have had to pay— except  our receipt from paying $22.50 earlier today got us out for free!)

Being up here on the ridge of the Niagara Escarpment did have one benefit, though. From up here we enjoyed a good view across Hamilton, Ontario.

View across Hamilton, Ontario from the Niagara Escarpment (Aug 2025)

Looking down from this gorge that drops into town reminds me a bit of Ithaca, New York, where I lived for 4 years while attending Cornell University. Hamilton is at least 10x bigger than Ithaca, though. Hamilton has a population of about 570,000 and a metro area of over 850,000. There's a lot of industry here as it's on the edge of Lake Ontario and not far across the border from the US for trade.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #12
Dundas, ON · Mon, 25 Aug 2025. 2pm.

It disappoints me when I start a hike, the weather's nice, then it turns sour by the time I get to the payoff vista. That's what happened when I hiked Webster Falls this morning— it got gloomy and rainy. It burns me even more when I deal with poor weather while I'm on the hike, decide to leave, then the weather gets better after I've gone. That's what happened while I was over at Tew Falls— the sun came out. Most of the time stuff like this happens there's nothing to do but accept it. Today, because the hikes were short and close together, I said I'm going back. And that's what I've done. I went back to Webster Falls.

Webster Falls in Dundas, Ontario (Aug 2025)

I parked in the lot a second time, paying nothing extra thanks to the good-at-all-local-parks-for-the-day $22.50 toll I already paid. And I walked to the falls on the short trail. And I climbed around the fence and scrambled down to the perch where I could actually see the falls, because fuck this town and its put-a-fence-around-everything-even-slightly-dangerous risk aversion.



I sat there on my perch for a while, making motion-blue pictures with my fancy camera (first frame above) and even a quick video with my iPhone (second frame). This time I even had the place to myself (plus Hawk). It's like the rain earlier in the hour chased off the riffraff. 😅


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #11
Dundas, ON · Mon, 25 Aug 2025. 1:30pm.

My frustration about paying $22.50 for only partial views of Webster Falls (until I cheated and went around the fence) was mollified somewhat by being able to use the same parking pass to park at the trailhead for Tew Falls a mile or two away. Webster Falls and Tew Falls both tumble over the same geological feature, the Niagara Escarpment, in Dundas. The escarpment is the edge of a plateau that run for tens of miles, maybe hundreds of miles. Yes, it's what a much larger falls with the same name tumbles over.

Anyway, we got to the parking lot for Tew Falls and... it started raining. We sat in the car for a few minutes figuring out what we'd want to do: wait it out, get lunch and come back, or just bail completely. "Wait it out" was the default choice and turned out to be the right one anyway as the rain cleared after about 10 minutes.

Tew Falls in Dundas, ON (Aug 2025)

It was an easy 1/2 mile walk around the rim over to a viewing spot for Tew falls. The trail continued farther, to Tew Peak, but we weren't interested in that. A "peak" here is less than a few hundred feet high. But, hey, Tew Falls is an amazing falls, and it's free— after paying $22.50 for Webster Falls. 🤣

Tew Falls in Dundas, ON (Aug 2025)

Seeing the sun come out at Tew Falls pissed me off even more about that $22.50 to see Webster Falls in the drizzling rain. But you know what? We could go back to Webster Falls! It's only a few miles away, our parking's paid for (all day! all the Hamilton Conservation Area parks!), and it's a short trail anyway. Soooo... back to the car, back to Webster, back around the fence like a scofflaw risking his own life!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Canada travelog #10
Dundas, ON · Mon, 25 Aug 2025. 1pm.

Our first hiking stop today, after various snacking stops such as getting a box of Timbits, is Webster Falls. It's in the bucolic small town of Dundas outside of Hamilton.

We'd picked out a route that travels up from below to the bottom of the falls, but it turns out it's closed. Not only is it closed, the entry is full of all kids of "GTFO". Like, there's locked gate across the trail, there's no-parking signs all around the gate, "Maximum enforcement area" signs below the no-parking signs, and poison ivy all over the gate. Yes, seriously, it's like the town hired an evil druid NPC to cast a spell on the gate. So we went around to the top of the falls, where there's an official entrance.

IMG_4649-sm.jpg

Ah, here's the other half of why the entrance below is closed off and cursed. Here there's room for a gatehouse to collect money. Build a gravel parking lot, put a couple of electronic gate arms on it, then plop down a tool shed and put a teenager with a credit card reader in it (no cash accepted). $22.50 for the two of us to enter. For a trail that's not even 1/2 mile long. Oh, but it's good at all the parks around Hamilton for today, the teenager assured us.

Webster Falls in Dundas, ON (Aug 2025)

We decided to get our $22.50 worth we'd hike to all the viewpoints for Webster Falls. They're not very far. The trail still works out to soemething like $25/km per person. And for that we only get partial views of the falls (see photo above) at some of these vista points.

For a partial falls view, it's pretty nice. I'll bet the full falls is amazing. Will we get to see that next? We walked around the other side, and...

Webster Falls in Dundas, ON (Aug 2025)

...Nope!

Oh, this vista definitely reveals more of the falls. It just doesn't reveal all of the falls.

One more to go and... also nope. The third viewpoint shows less of the falls than the first two. It's a straight-on view of the falls.... but there's, like, 20 feet of forest between the edge of canyon and the fenced off trail. It's such a disappointment I didn't even bother to take a picture.

Ah, but I mentioned a fence. It's fenced off. You know what you can do with fences? You can go around them. Or over them. Or even under them.

Today I decided that going around this fence was easiest. Not that they made it easy. I had to do some balancing and hold onto the fencepost to get around the end of it. But I got around the fence. And once around the fence I could backtrack, on the opposite side of the fence, to where an old and steep but clearly visible path led down to a perch at the rim of the canyon. Would that perch offer a better view of the falls?

Webster Falls in Dundas, ON (Aug 2025)

BOOM! Much better view. Hawk even kept watch for me in case a park ranger came along to bust me for going around the fence. Though I think the only "ranger" in the park was the bored teenager at the gate playing on his phone in between bilking visitors for $22.50 apiece.

There was only one problem. It was starting to rain.

Goddammit. In the time it took me to get down to this perfect picture-taking spot the sun had gone away, the clouds had come in, and it was starting to sprinkle.

I waited 10 minutes or so to see if the sky would clear, or at least if the dark clouds would shift away. Neither seemed to be happening. Thus since we had plans to visit multiple other falls today I packed it in on Webster Falls. I picked my way back up the steep path, followed the fence to its end near the edge of the canyon and swung around the last fence post, and walked the short distance back to the car.

Up next: Getting our $22.50 worth of parking with a two-fer at Tew Falls!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Kaiser Pass travelog #5
Above Huntington Lake · Sat, 9 Aug 2025, 5pm

Update: This journal entry got stuck in my backlog for a few weeks as other trips leapfrogged it. Time to get it unstuck!

We've had a day of driving up in the High Sierra, starting with the climb up from Fresno, a 4x4 trek up to nearly 10,000' in the Kaiser Pass, and a soak at Mono Hot Springs deep in the mountains. Now we're on our way back out, but in a way we've saved the best for last. Coming back down from the Kaiser Pass we've made a slight detour to Rancheria Falls.

Rancheria Falls, Sierra National Forest (Aug 2025)

Rancheria Falls is surprisingly large for how high up in the mountains it is— elev. 7,750' (2,362 meters). It's also surprisingly full for the date being somewhat late in the season. Though it was even fuller we first visited two years ago. And that was even later in the season by a few weeks. (The difference was a heavier rain/snow season earlier in the year.)

One thing that's also surprising is how hard the easy trail to the falls is. I call it "easy" because it's just 0.6 mile (1km) each way, with an ascent of 200' on the way in. That should be relatively easy. But at nearly 8,000' elevation, when you're not acclimated, it'll leave you panting. Fortunately the payoff is well worth the effort, with a falls you can not only admire from a distance but walk right to the foot of and dunk your head under if you do a bit of scrambling.



One advantage of saving this hike until late in the day is that we minimized the crowds. There were a bunch of people starting the trail just in front of us and at the falls when we arrived, but as we waited a bit most of the groups cleared out. At one point we had the falls entirely to ourselves for several minutes.

Another advantage of timing late in the day is the position of the sun. When we visited in the late morning hours on our previous visit, the sun was shining over the top of the falls. That made capturing really good photos hard. Of course, hard doesn't mean impossible. I'm proud of the photos I made on our visit in 2023. Today, though, in late afternoon, it's been a lot easier. I'll share more photos after these few soon.

Oh, one last quick one for now....

Looking down the canyon from Rancheria Falls (Aug 2025)

In the video I mentioned that Rancheria Falls is actually quite tall with lots of cascades. When you add them all together it's actually hundreds of feet tall. That top cascade about 80' tall is the prettiest one.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Kaiser Pass travelog #6
Back Home · Sun, 10 Aug 2025, 8:30am

We're back from our quick weekend trip to the Kaiser Pass in the Sierra Nevada mountains. How quick? Well, it started with our Friday Night Halfway in Fresno and finished when we got home late Saturday night. We were out for just over 29 hours. Here's a recap:

Friday night we arrived at our hotel. It's in Clovis, a smaller town adjacent to/a suburb of Fresno. Despite leaving later than I wanted, due to work going long, we got in earlier than I expected, due to traffic surprisingly not being shit on a summer Friday. Maybe it's because school started in many districts this past week and parents aren't taking their kids on weekend trips again yet? Anyway, despite arriving early enough to use the hotel's pool and hot tub we decided we'd rather just stretch out in our room. Partly that's because we used our pool and hot tub, at home, this afternoon.

Saturday morning I awoke with my 7am alarm then just puttered until 8. We didn't leave the hotel until almost 9. I'd have been frustrated about that but we didn't need to hurry. That's the point of Friday Night Halfway: to buy us more time to do things— and not have to rush— on Saturday. I noted as I checked the weather forecast that the high for the day in Fresno would be 106° F. 🥵 (That's 41° C for the rest of the world.) Well, it's a good thing we're not here for Fresno but to drive up into the high mountains. As a rule of thumb the temperature drops 3° per 1,000 feet of elevation, so at 7,000' it should be a warm but not stifling 85°.

Leaving town we stopped at Costco for gas then Del Taco for breakfast. As we got up into the mountains we stopped at a general store in Shaver Lake for snacks.

Our first activity was a drive up a 4x4 road to Kaiser Ridge. We'd already driven to the Kaiser Pass via California 168 and forest road 80. Now we left the pavement behind for another 1.5 miles on a dirt road to the top of the ridge. Up here we were at 10,000 feet with great views down across the Mono Valley of the San Joaquin River and the mountains beyond— or what would have been great views except that there was a lot of smoke in the air.  I joked some time back that when traveling in the West now we need to check not just the weather report but the fire report. It's turning out to be less a joke and more a prophesy. 🤦

Saturday afternoon we drove down the Kaiser Ridge to its far side, the Mono Valley. Why? Because buried deep in there are Mono Hot Springs, a cluster of natural hot springs fed by geothermal activity. There's a small resort there but also a handful of pools that are on Forest Service ground. We hiked a short trail to them and Hawk took a dip.

Late afternoon we stopped to hike Rancheria Falls on our way back down the west side of Kaiser Ridge. We've visited there once before, a few years ago. It was definitely worth visiting again. It was mellow in the late afternoon hours, and the light was perfect.

We got back to Clovis a bit after 7pm. We weren't staying another night, just stopping through for dinner and gas. We'd tried for dinner at a small pizza shop in Shaver Lake, but the staff there warned us the wait was 90 minutes to cook a pizza. We figured we could drive 60 minutes to the Fresno area and still eat sooner than that, plus be 60 minutes closer to home.

The last part of the drive home was late. We finished with dinner and getting gas around 8:15, but then it was over 2 hours home. We were both fading hard. I drove for an hour and a half, then Hawk took the last 45 minutes as I nodded in and out. We got home around 11, unpacked the car, then I took a shower and tumbled into bed.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #11
Blue Lake OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 6:30pm

According to our map on AllTrails, it was going to be an uphill climb from Lower Proxy Falls to the upper falls. Up, up, all the way; the steepest uphill on the trail. Well, aside from the off-trail climbing we did getting back up to the trail after climbing over logs and walking through water to see Lower Proxy Falls from its base, it was basically flat on the way to Lower Proxy Falls. In fact, the last little bit was gently downhill. AllTrails was out to lunch.

Hiking the Proxy Falls trail in the Oregon Cascades (Jul 2025)One thing I always enjoy about the Pacific Northwest, especially the Cascade Mountains, is how we're so often surrounded by huge trees.

I grew up in a neighborhood where a stand of old growth trees remained behind our house. It's almost unheard of today to have old growth trees in a suburban neighborhood. Developers bulldoze the entire plat for simplicity, build houses, and maybe plant a few saplings in the yard. But we had a few mature trees in our yard plus a stand of untouched forest behind us.

As a kid I always the view from our back yard of the tall, straight trees behind the house. But those were East Coast trees. They only seemed tall relative to my diminutive size. The tallest one, a looming Black Walnut, probably wasn't much more than 80' tall. But compared to everything else, and compared to me, it seemed huge. Out here in the PNW the commonest tree is the Douglas Fir, which easily grows to 200'+. It's humbling to feel so dwarfed by nature. It throws me back to my childhood sense of wonder.

It was just as well that the trail to Upper Proxy Falls was gently because Hawk and I were seriously flagging. It had been a long day, going on 6pm already as we wound down the last bit to the base of the falls.

Upper Proxy Falls trail in the Oregon Cascades (Jul 2025)

Upper Proxy Falls was both pretty and a disappointment. Pretty, because, well, look at it. 😅 And yet also a disappointment because it was shrouded by so many trees and didn't seem to have a big, main tier anywhere but just a series of steep cascades.

Two groups of hikers arrived practically on our heels. One pair were the gal and guy who said "Yeah, no" when we told them about our adventure getting to the bottom of Lower Proxy Falls. They were content to admire these falls from across the pond at the bottom.

Another trio of hikers were young women who immediately started climbing a faint trail up the hill to the right of the falls. It seemed their goal was to get about 1/3 of the way up— that's as far as any of them got before them stopped, anyway— and take Instagram pictures (or is it TikTok videos nowadays?) of themselves in one of the larger cascades with water pouring over their heads. I timed my photos for when they were standing behind trees so they wouldn't ruin my Instagram-worthy pictures. 😂

After this Hawk and I hiked back up the slight rise from the bottom of the falls and the finished the loop back down to the parking lot. I honestly don't remember a lot about the hike from that point, other than that it was down at the end. We're both tired enough that we fell into the one-foot-in-front-of-the-other mindset, kind of block out other things around us. Now we're back at the car, resting for a moment before beginning the drive home over the McKenzie Pass to Bend on the other side of the Cascades.

Update: But wait, there's more! An unexpected hike appeared on the way home, when we thought we were too tired! Stay tuned....



canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #10
Blue Lake, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 5:30pm

After hiking Downing Creek Falls earlier this afternoon we drove back up toward the Santiam Pass then south down the McKenzie River canyon. We passed a few signs for waterfalls along the way and sped past them at 60mph, confident they weren't interesting. (Ironic foreshadowing: they were totally interesting. We'd have to come back for them!) We turned west, heading back uphill along Old McKenzie, and reached the trailhead for Proxy Falls.

A rough, dry trail to Proxy Falls (Jul 2025)

The Proxy Falls trail is a loop with spurs off to two waterfalls, Lower and Upper Proxy Falls. We quickly found that our AllTrails.com map was out to lunch. It showed the first part of the trail as being downhill. You can see in the pic above that it's decided uphill. We huffed and puffed up a ridge of volcanic rubble.

Just as we were running out of steam the trail leveled off. Soon enough we reached the spur for the first falls.

Lower Proxy Falls is nice but mostly shrouded from the trail... (Jul 2025)

The spur trail led to a partial view of Lower Proxy Falls. Much of the Falls, especially its base, was shrouded by dense trees down in the canyon. The trail seemed to peter out here. Keyword: seemed.

We paced back and forth a bit, peering down the little ridge we were on to see if there'd been a washout or slide that obscured the trail. Sure enough, there had been. We could see remnants of a trail at the bottom of the hill. We picked our way carefully down the hillside, then balanced on and climbed over the trunks of huge fallen trees across the bottom of the canyon until we reached the foot of Lower Proxy Falls.

Some clambering got us to the base of Lower Proxy Falls (Jul 2025)

To really get the best view of the falls we had to walk out into the middle of the creek. At first I hesitated as I was wearing my hiking sandals instead of my boots. Boots would let me step through a few inches of water without getting my socks wet. But I deemed that the weather was warm enough to deal with wet feet, plus what's beauty without a little discomfort? 😅 We walked into the creek and got our feet wet.

Some clambering got us to the base of Lower Proxy Falls (Jul 2025)

Once we were satisfied drinking in the view of the falls and soaking our feet in chilly water we scrambled across the big logs (much bigger than those you see in the photos above!) to the bottom of the hill opposite the falls. We picked a different route to the top, looking to save ourselves a few steps. I took a small spill on the way up. Again, what's beauty without a bit of discomfort. 🤣

At the top of the hill we met a pair of hikers looking for the falls. We told them about our cross-country, wet-foot expedition, and they basically said, "Yeah, no." In fact I think those were their exact words: "Yeah, no." 🤣

Fine by me if they choose to stay on the bunny trail. Me? In beauty I walk.

Keep reading: These were Lower Proxy Falls; next we visit Upper Proxy Falls!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #9
Detroit, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 4pm

After an enjoyable hike at Tumalo Falls near Bend this morning we drove back near town to get some lunch. By then it was already noon. We picked a frou-frou burger restaurant on the west side of town because it meant not having to drive all the way into town. Plus, their menu had a few not-so-frou-frou options so we felt we'd be covered. It was decent; maybe decent-plus.

After lunch we hit the road again and drove over Cascade crest to the west and halfway down toward the Willamette Valley. There, in the Western Cascades, was our next hiking destination, Downing Creek Falls. I'll start you with a video of the falls while I explain a bit more about the hike.



Finding this hike was hard. It was hard even with a good trail description and GPS maps on our phones. That's because the trail is up an unmarked dirt road. At a fork in the road where the trail notes suggested we park and start hiking, we pushed further in our car, confident of its 4x4 capabilities and my ability to use them. Our boldness in that respect was rewarded; we cut about half the length off the hike just by driving up the two-track until we reached a natural blockade where the two-track turned to an overgrown single track. We pulled on our packs and hiked the rest of the way.

Downing Falls, Oregon (Jul 2025)

The foot trail was faint and overgrown in many places. It took some wilderness skill on our part to keep heading in the correct direction. Before we reached the main falls (pictured) we saw some small cascades and a weeping wall. From there we could hear the main even slightly further up the canyon so we pressed on.

Downing Falls, Oregon (Jul 2025)

Once we reached the falls we lingered for a while at the back of the canyon, climbing around on the slick, steep ground to view the falls from different angles.

Downing Falls, Oregon (Jul 2025)

This whole time we had the falls entirely to ourselves. That's one of the pluses of sticking through to find a remote, poorly signed falls. Though as beautiful as these falls are I'm surprised the Forest Service hasn't marked or maintained the trail.

Update: on the drive back out to the road we did pass another hiker coming in. Our two vehicles could barely pass on the two-track! He deftly wedged his crossover as close to the side as he could, while I plowed our SUV about a foot into the undergrowth on the right. We passed with just inches to spare.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #8
Bend, OR - Wed, 2 Jul 2025, 11:30am

I posted two blogs already about hiking Tumalo Falls and all I've shared is... Tumalo Falls (see part 1, part 2). Well, okay, not just the falls but also a bit about the art and science of photography. But, hey, there's still hiking to be done here. In beauty I walk, and all of that.

Double Falls on Tumalo Creek near Bend (Jul 2025)

The trail continues past Tumalo Falls up a pretty stream canyon. Maybe a mile or so in it reaches Double Falls. These aren't as awe-inspiring as Tumalo Falls but definitely worth the extra hike.

Double Falls on Tumalo Creek near Bend (Jul 2025)

I'm sharing here two pictures, one I took with each of the cameras I'm carrying. I won't explain this time what the differences are.... I leave that to you for homework. It'll be easy if you've actually read my past two blogs and not just looked at the pictures. (Extra credit for identifying where that quip comes from, BTW. 🤣)

At 2 miles this isn't a huge hike. It's certainly not our plan for the day. It's actually just our plan for before lunch. We'll hike back down and drive back into town for some eats, then drive up over the crest of the Cascades for more hikes this afternoon.


Profile

canyonwalker: wiseguy (Default)
canyonwalker

January 2026

S M T W T F S
     1 2 3
45678910
11121314151617
18192021222324
25262728293031

Syndicate

RSS Atom

Most Popular Tags

Style Credit

Expand Cut Tags

No cut tags
Page generated Jan. 4th, 2026 05:45 pm
Powered by Dreamwidth Studios