canyonwalker: wiseguy (Default)
West Virginia Travelog #17
Fayette, WV - Tue, 19 Sep 2023. 11am

We've already driven over it 4 times this trip. It's easy not to give it a second thought. After all, one's interaction with it is over in about 43 seconds. But it's an engineering marvel that reduced a slow, 45 minute drive down a mountain, across a river, and up the other side, to less than a minute. It's the New River Gorge Bridge.

US-19 traverses the New River Gorge Bridge (Sep 2023)

Today we spent some time with this marvel. We stopped at the visitors center on the north side of the bridge to walk to a viewing platform, then we went on a self-guided driving tour down into the canyon with the help of an audio track Hawk downloaded and played through the car's stereo.

For a long time this part of the country— much of West Virginia, in fact— was considered too remote. Steep gorges like this crossing the land were the key reason why. Yet new reason to try harder came with the discovery of considerable coal deposits in the late 19th century. Railroads forged lines through the New River Gorge in 1873, and with this transportation network now available, more than a dozen coal mining towns sprang up along the river.

The Fayette Station Bridge, first built in 1889, crosses the New River (Sep 2023)

There were still the challenges of how to cross the river— and how to get from the rail station at the bottom to anything built atop the gorge. At first ferries were used to cross the river. Then in 1889 the Fayette Station Bridge was built.

The Fayette Station Bridge, first built in 1889, crosses the New River (Sep 2023)

The bridge that stands today is a rebuilt copy of the original bridge. It's safe to drive; in fact we drove across it before parking on the south side and walking back to take pictures.

While the bridge replaced slow and apparently dangerous ferry service, there was still the issue of the time taken to drive up and down the steep hills. Even with modern roads and cars, the trip from the top of one side of the gorge to the other takes about 45 minutes. With early motor cars and motor roads, say ~100 years ago, it could easily have been double. In horse-and-carriage days, probably quadruple.

Now the New River Gorge Bridge goes straight across the top, from side to side:

The New River Gorge Bridge is one of the largest arch bridges in the world (Sep 2023)

A few facts about this bridge:


  • Construction was started in 1974 and completed in 1977. The steel looks old because of a rust-color treatment that makes painting it unnecessary.

  • The span of the arch is 1700 feet (518 meters) long. Its curvature rises 360 feet. The suspended roadway is 3030 feet long.

  • When it was built it was the longest steel arch bridge in the world, a title it held for 26 years. China subsequently built four longer arch bridges. This one remains the longest outside China.

  • The road deck is 876 feet above the river. When it opened it was the highest bridge (of any design) in the world bearing regular vehicular traffic. Since 2001 a number of taller road bridges have been built, most of them in China.

My interest in seeing this bridge stems from studying it in a civil engineering class in the early 1990s. Back then this bridge was still relatively young— not even old enough for a learner's driving permit— and still retained multiple #1 designations. Even though it's been surpassed in length and height it's still a great piece of design that ties together the landscape aesthetically as well as logistically.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
West Virginia Travelog #5
New River Gorge National Park - Sat, 16 Sep 2023. 5:30pm

While hiking at Sandstone Falls earlier today we temporarily forgot that we'd flown a red-eye from California— and then drove several hours hours. When I walk in beauty I forget how tired I am. The adventuring day wasn't done when we finished visiting the falls, though. While we were in the southern part of New River Gorge National Park we wanted to visit Grandview. As we got back to the car from this hike our late second wind was spent.

We started with a short walk to a lookout point.

Grandview Point, New River Gorge National Park (Sep 2023)

Grandview is the highest point in the park. Here the ridge is some 1,400' over the New River in the gorge below.

Visiting the main lookout point atop the ridge wasn't a hike. It was just 100 meters or so from the parking lot. As tired as we were we decided we had it in us for an actual hike. I laced up my boots, and Hawk switched from her street sandals to hiking sandals, and we set off on the Castle Rock trail.

Castle Rock Trail, New River Gorge National Park (Sep 2023)

The Castle Rock trail drops down slightly from the top of the ridge. It winds beneath eroded layered rocks that form the top of the ridge. The views of the gorge weren't any better here, but that wasn't the point. Walking below the castle-like rock walls was.

After 0.6 mile the Castle Rock trail ascended back to the ridge. We hiked the ridge-top trail from there back to where we started. Along the way were several more outlooks over the gorge 1,400' below us. All were... not as compelling as I hoped they might be... due to (a) the late afternoon casting part of the gorge into deep shade, and (b) trees growing nearby partly obstructing the views. Dangit, those trees are spoiling my enjoyment nature! 🤣

In beauty I walk.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
West Virginia Travelog #4
New River Gorge National Park - Sat, 16 Sep 2023. 3:30pm

As I remarked in my previous blog about Sandstone Falls, we had fun getting off the boardwalk trail to scramble over rocks and between trees to see things from a different perspective. All but one of my best pictures from this hike came from things I experienced off-trail.

Sandstone Falls, New River Gorge National Park (Sep 2023)

Among those off-trail experiences were seeing the waterfalls from different, and closer, perspectives. But there were also birds. While composing some of my earlier photos I noticed a pair of large birds stalking the rushes. They were great blue herons— a pair of them. They flew to the top of the falls, but from my vantage point at the time that was too far away to capture a compelling pic even with my "bird shooter" telephoto lens. As I stalked through the reeds myself a better opportunity arrived.

Great Blue Heron at Sandstone Falls (Sep 2023)

This great blue heron seemed a bit perturbed that he (she?) was not the only creature stepping carefully through the rushes on long legs. I wasn't going to challenge the bird for its fish meal, though, and the only thing I was "hunting" was a closeup photo.

Great Blue Heron at Sandstone Falls (Sep 2023)

In beauty we both walk.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
West Virginia Travelog #3
New River Gorge National Park - Sat, 16 Sep 2023. 3:30pm

Well, we did it. We got to the the US's newest national park only... *checks watch*... 33 months after it was designated. One of our bucket lists is to visit every one of the (now) 63 national parks. As of today at New River Gorge National Park in West Virginia we are at 51 [loud tock sound] 52.

We didn't come here just to tick the box (or tock the clock), of course. We came here to enjoy doing the things we enjoy doing at parks. In beauty we walk!

Sandstone Falls, New River Gorge National Park (Sep 2023)

Our first visit in the park this afternoon was to Sandstone Falls. It's at the south end of the sprawling park, near the surprisingly well kept little town of Hinton. This area is up-river from the rest of the park. Here the New River hasn't carved as deep a gorge through the Allegheny Mountains. "New River" is a horrible misnomer, BTW. This river is literally older than the mountains around it... and these mountains are old!

Sandstone Falls, New River Gorge National Park (Sep 2023)

The trail here is easy; there's a boardwalk guiding visitors out partway across the river. But, as is often the case, we found the best views by stepping off the boardwalk and picking our way across the rocks.

In beauty we walk.

UPDATEMore ahead in part 2!

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