canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Colorado Travelog #26
Montrose, CO - Wednesday, 6 Jul 2022, 10pm

This evening we're in Montrose, Colorado, holing up at a Holiday Inn Express. There's not much to say about Montrose.... It's a crossroads town in western Colorado... with a Holiday Inn Express. 🤣

After finishing our hike to Bear Creek Falls this afternoon we grabbed a late lunch in Telluride. We were too tired and hungry to plan much else so we went to literally the closest restaurant, a brew-pub 1½ blocks from the end of the trail. It was pretty good. I had a chimichurri steak with a small sampler of beer then a pint of the beer I liked best. The beers were surprisingly high in alcohol content, like 8-9%. I passed the car keys to Hawk after 2 pints.

While we were dining the sky, which had been gray off and on for much the day, opened up and began pouring rain. We had chosen to dine on the patio, as the weather was nice outside until then. For a few minutes we huddled together under the patio umbrellas. Then we determined the rain wasn't going to let up so we asked to be seated inside. We were the last of at least half a dozen groups who braved the weather outside.

The drive from Telluride to Montrose was barely 70 miles and took about an hour and a half. It seemed like it took 2 hours, though. I blame the rain for slowing things down.

On our way around 14,000 ' Mt. Sniffles, crossing over the Dallas Pass at about 9,000', we saw snow on the road side. It didn't snow on us (temps never dropped below 46° F / 8° C according to our truck's air thermometer) but snow had fallen at that level not too much earlier in the day. And Mt. Sniffles was streaked with snow in all of its crevices. I don't know why Coloradans gave this 14,000 ' mountain a lame name like Sniffles. With its broad shoulders and angular crown, a mountain like that in, say, the Trinity Alps of California would be named Odin's Throne or Mt. Storm King. But here it's Mt. Sniffles.

The weather cleared up this afternoon in Montrose. It probably kept raining in the high mountains around Telluride, but here in Montrose we're in terrain more closely matching high desert. We soaked for a while in the hot tub before going back out to rustle up some dinner. Montrose being... well, basically nowhere... stuff was closing down at 8. We ended up going through a McDonald's drive thru (they closed the dining room at 8 but ran the drive through later) and eating our food on a picnic table in front of the restaurant at dusk.

Back here at the room, now, we're taking it easy for the rest of the evening. I'm catching up a bit on my blog backlog, and Hawk is doing some work. Ugh. I'm glad my time off from work is actually time off from work.

Tomorrow's going to be a long day. We'll do a bunch of short hikes at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, which is about 30 minutes from here, then drive on to Glenwood Springs a few hours away. It'll be a full day.

Update: I forgot to mention we scored a big suite upgrade at the hotel due to my Platinum Elite status. See a walkthrough of the "suite" life in my next blog.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #25
Telluride, CO - Wednesday, 6 Jul 2022, 2pm

Our hike 2.5 miles up to Bear Creek Falls this morning was fairly pleasant. It certainly didn't feel like we'd climbed over 1,000' to nearly 10,000' elevation. As we got within the last 200 meters or so of the falls the trail shrank from a wide fire road down to a single-track footpath winding through the undergrowth. We forged through it and came out on a rocky slope at the foot of the falls.

Bear Creek Falls, Telluride CO (Jul 2022)

Here there were a few large rocks to sit on to enjoy the view. The area was somewhat crowded when we arrived, but people were filtering out as the sky increasingly threatened rain. Indeed, shortly after we claimed a nice perch for ourselves it did start to rain!

We stayed through the rain because we were prepared for it. ...Well, Hawk was prepared; I was somewhat prepared. Hawk had brought a rain poncho. I only had a light jacket and a broad brimmed hat. I forgot to pack my rain jacket when we left California days ago. But the light jacket worked well enough today as the rain didn't get particularly heavy.

Bear Creek Falls, Telluride CO, in the rain (Jul 2022)

Why sit atop a rock eating a trail lunch in the rain? We do it because the view, in some ways, gets better. The darker sky really brought out the colors in the cliff next to us. And as the weather shifted from moment to moment we enjoyed many moments of sun-shower: times when the sky overhead was sunny, but rain was still falling on us.

The trail back from Bear Creek Falls, Telluride CO (Jul 2022)

The rain abated after 15-20 minutes. We decided we'd been at the falls long enough, so we began the trek 2.5 miles back down the valley into town. Hawk kept her rain poncho on (as seen in the photo above) but it didn't rain anymore on us.

Update: About 20 minutes after we finished hiking the skies opened up and absolutely poured rain. We timed it just right!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #24
Telluride, CO - Wednesday, 6 Jul 2022, 11:30am

Today we're hiking the Bear Creek trail in Telluride. It's a 5 mile round-trip hike with a gain of a little over 1,000'.

Like several other trails in Telluride (and for that matter, Ouray too) the Bear Creek trail starts at the end of the street in residential area only a few blocks from downtown. Parking was already getting busy by 9:45 when we arrived. We found a spot 4 blocks away. We hit the trail part of the trail by 10am.

The first leg of the trail climbs through the forest before rounding a bend into the Bear Creek valley. After a mile or so the view start to open up.

The trail to Bear Creek Falls, Telluride CO (Jul 2022)

The trail here doesn't look too steep— and it isn't. The stretch up to this point is steeper, but even that is gently graded. This is one of those trails where you climb 1,000' but don't feel like you've climbed 1,000'.

On the Bear Creek trail near Telluride, CO (Jul 2022)

Various hiker comments in trail blogs warned us about how crowded this trail can get. Indeed, the parking crunch at the bottom led us to believe it'd be a crowded day. And while ideally we could've started an hour earlier (but couldn't because our AirBnB was unexpectedly 45 minutes away) hiking it now really hasn't been that bad. Part of it is that the trail is wide, a cleared fire road most of the way up. Groups can pass each other without squeezing past. If this were a single-track trail it'd feel a lot more crowded. Then too, it's not that late. I imagine people only just starting the trail now are seeing more crowds than we have.

Bear Creek Falls near Telluride, CO (Jul 2022)

The views in the first two photos I've shared here are the sides of the canyon. It's beautiful walking below the towering ridges, but also beautiful is the waterfalls at the back of the canyon (photo above). This is still just a distance view of the falls; we're still a few hundred meters away. According to hikers we just spoke to the trail goes right up to the bottom of the falls. Look for up-close pics in my next blog!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #16
Telluride, CO - Monday, 4 Jul 2022, 7pm

By some rights it was a crummy day in Telluride. The weather was gloomy and threatening to rain at any moment. And there was the bait-and-switch with our AirBnB we still hadn't resolved. But there were still hikes we wanted to do regardless of which side of 14,000'+ Mt. Snuffles our condo was on, and besides, gloomy weather can be a good time to visit a waterfall. Browse through my waterfalls tag to see the beauty that hides in the gloom and drizzle.

The canyon narrows in on the trail to Cornet Falls (Jul 2022)

The trail to Cornet Falls starts at the end of a residential street in Telluride. It enters a side canyon that closes in quickly as we hike upstream.

The view back out the canyon hiking to Cornet Falls (Jul 2022)

Within 100 yards it becomes hard to tell we started in a town. The only indicator there's a ski resort town behind us is... well, the runs cleared on the far slope of the main canyon.

Within minutes of puffing uphill, the elevation already at over 9,000', we came up a waterfall streaming across the trail from a side canyon.

A waterfall sprays down the side of the canyon... it's NOT Cornet Falls! (Jul 2022)

The trail seemed to end here. Although the main canyon continued further up, the route seemed blocked by the debris from this falls. A pair of hikers sharing the trail with us were like, "Woohoo! We made it!"

It didn't seem right to me, though. A written description I'd found described a falls that was more grand than this. As I looked up in the gathering gloom I saw that the source of the falls was a pipe. Possibly even a busted pipe that created this debris flow across the trail. I could see the trail continuing on the far side of it. We picked our way across the wet rocks and gravel, Hawk patiently showing the other hikers how to do it, and continued higher up the trail.

Cornet Falls, Telluride CO (Jul 2022)

Indeed, Busted Pipe Falls was not Cornet Falls. We found the latter at the back of the canyon, a natural stream pouring 100' over a rock lip.
canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #15
Telluride, CO - Monday, 4 Jul 2022, 5:30pm

Despite getting a bum steer on staying Telluride the next few nights we decided, "We're here now, let's make the best of it." There was a waterfall we could basically drive to, so we visited that first. ...Mind you, it was one you could drive to with 4 wheel drive and high clearance. Thus why I paid, like, 3x the price of renting a sedan to get a Toyota Tacoma 4x4 (and also why I was frustrated when it came shod with poor tires).

Bridalveil Falls, Telluride CO (Jul 2022)

Bridalveil Falls is big enough that we could see it a few miles back in the valley around Telluride. I just kept driving in its direction. Soon paved road turned to dirt and gravel. Then there was a parking lot where most people parked. The trail to the base of the falls was just over a mile with about 800' of ascent from there. But the road continued for the skilled and well equipped. I switched into 4-Lo and drove another 2 miles up rocky switchbacks. We parked in a small lot at the base of the falls alongside mostly Jeep Wranglers.

The road continued up a bit from the base of the falls. It goes to the top of the falls. There's a power generating station up there. I'm not sure how it generates power as it's atop the falls.

The road continues beyond the top of Bridalveil Falls. It's one way the opposite way, though. It comes over the Black Bear Pass from Red Mountain south of Ouray. We parked the truck and walked up the road a bit to catch a better view of Ingram Falls.

Ingram Falls, Telluride CO (Jul 2022)

Ingram Falls has several tiers. The drop shown in the photo above is near the top. Further down it falls in a series of small cascades. In total it's over 2,000' of falls, basically from the top of the ridge to the bottom of the valley.

View of Telluride, CO from Black Bear Road (Jul 2022)

Speaking of top and bottom of the valley, here's a pano from where we parked our truck on the Black Bear Pass road. That "tiny" waterfall off on the left is 200'+ Bridalveil Falls.
canyonwalker: WTF? (wtf?)
Colorado Travelog #14
Telluride, CO - Monday, 4 Jul 2022, 3pm

A few minutes ago we rolled into Telluride, the core of our trip to Colorado this week. Hawk pulled out her phone to check the address of our vacation rental in town. (She couldn't do that for most of the past hour because we're in a remote area.)

"WTF?" she shouted. "The map says it's 39 miles away!"

She double-checked. The address was, indeed, in the town of Ridgway, Colorado, 50 minutes away.

"How, exactly, does AirBnB think that's 'minutes' away from Telluride?" I asked rhetorically. "It's 39 miles away. There's a 14,000' peak between here and there."

Hawk started checking through the records of her booking months ago to determine where the mixup happened. I told her I was willing to go to the mats on this with AirBnB. This kind of thing is an outrageous bait and switch.

Alas, it wasn't a bait and switch. It was operator error. Well, it was a bit of bait and switch. AirBnB advertised it as "near" Telluride but they did also disclose that it's in Ridgway. They just didn't give the exact address at booking time. Hawk should have double checked how "near" Ridgway was.

BTW, the 14,000' peak between here and Ridgway is Mt. Sneffels.

"Mount Sniffles?" Hawk asked.

"More like Snuffles," I sneered. We're blocked by a mountain named for an annoying cold symptom.
canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Colorado Travelog #13
Telluride, CO - Monday, 4 Jul 2022, 2:30pm

As enjoyable as our hike at Devil's Kitchen this morning was, it  was not "it" for the day. Not by a long shot! From there we drove to Telluride, where we plan to do several hikes over the next few days, including at least one later this afternoon.

Telluride is a pleasant drive of about 2.5 hours from Grand Junction. We filled up with lunch first after our hike, choosing to eat at a Del Taco in Grand Junction. There aren't many Del Tacos in our part of California anymore, so we like to visit them when we find one while traveling. If you're not familiar with Del Taco, think of it as, "What if Taco Bell food didn't look and taste like mystery sludge?"

After lunch we stopped in the town of Delta for Dairy Queen. DQ is another restaurant there aren't (m)any of within quite a distance of home anymore. Like yesterday, Hawk got a sundae and I got a Blizzard. This time I tried the Girl Scout Thin Mint Blizzard. It was awesome.

Anyway, Telluride!

Entering Telluride, Colorado (Jul 2022)

As we rolled up on Telluride we were blown away by the scenery. Tall, steep, mountains crowd in a tiny valley. Just driving toward it we could already see multiple waterfalls at the back.

We're spending the next two nights in Telluride. We actually wanted to spend 3 but couldn't find a reasonable rental even months in advance. Initially we thought about spending the whole week here. See, Telluride was the impetus for this whole trip. When we were looking up Colorado hikes for a previous trip we found a cluster of them right around Telluride.

"Let's plan a trip there!" we agreed. "We could even stay for a full week."

"But it's remote," I pointed out as I started to draft travel plans. "We'll need time to travel in and out."

"Okay, let's visit other stuff in Colorado, too," we agreed.

So that's how we planned this 8-day trip around spending 3 days in Telluride, spending a few days getting there and a few days getting back, doing lots of hikes on both sides of it.

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