canyonwalker: Cheers! (wine tasting)

In my previous blog I wrote about chain restaurants. We visit them sparingly, prefering local restaurants which are often way better— especially in our area. But sometimes we have a taste for chain food, and when traveling we're more likely to opt for chain food because it's a known quantity in an unfamiliar place. When we were traveling around Colorado a few weeks ago we visited more than our usual share of chain restaurants. Here's a rundown of what we visited during the week & what we thought:

Qdoba: Our first chain food was lunch on Saturday. We picked Qdoba, which is in the same niche as better known competitors Baja Fresh and Chipotle, because we wanted Mexican food. Also, neither of us had been to a Qdoba in at least 10 years, so it was kind of like trying something new. How was it? Meh. The quesadillas we bought came heavy on cheese and light on meat/veg. The cheese seemed to be low quality with a weird aftertaste. We won't go back to one for at least another 10 years.

Pizza Hut: "The 'Hut" is a guilty pleasure for me. I think their pizza is actually good. Well, not good-good, but the one near my home is reliably 3.5/5 stars, occasionally reaching 4/5. I ordered pizza from one in a small town on Saturday night not because it was my first choice but because it was my thirteenth. How was it? Not as good as the one near home, but it got the job done. One of the things I like about Pizza Hut is that, with their online deals, I can virtually always get an excellent amount of food for a very reasonable price. On this Pizza Hut delivered. Well, not delivered, because I went to pick it up, but figuratively delivered. 😅 Also, as an example of why I don't blanket-dismiss chain food, when I bought pizza at two different local restaurants later this trip, one of them was clearly better than Pizza Hut but one was not quite as good— despite positive Yelp reviews.

Dairy Queen: This ice cream chain is a guilty pleasure for both of us, and the guilt here is mostly the "OMG how many calories did I just ingest?" kind. I know from visiting a number of them that DQs vary in selection and quality, though at worst the quality is still at least barely acceptable. How was it? This trip we visited three DQs, using Yelp to avoid a few of the not-so-good ones. As with past experience, the worst we visited was still okay. The other two were like, "OMG that was delicious... but how many hundred calories?"

Famous Dave's: We ate at one of these chain barbecue restaurants Monday night when I was ready for some "red meat therapy", as I like to call it. It was either Dave's or Outback; we picked Dave's because, like Qdoba, we hadn't been to one in about 10 years, so it was kinda like trying something new. How was it? I shared a photo a few thoughts already. Basically, it got the job done. Not great, not quite good, but definitely okay to okay-plus. I could see going back to a Famous Dave's in less than 10 years.

Del Taco: Del Taco is one of those chains we'd eat at more if there were any near us. Instead we look for them when we're on the road in the southwest US. "What's a Del Taco?" you might ask if you're not from this region? Imagine it being like a Taco Bell but with way better food. ...Yeah, I know that's damning it with faint praise. It's still fast food, but we like it. How was it? The store we visited had marginal reviews on Yelp but we found it was exactly what we expected, no more, no less. The negative reviews were likely from people who either don't grasp the decidedly Mexican-American style cuisine they offer (e.g., meals come with fries on the side, not beans and rice) or don't grasp the idea of fast food vs. full service.

Village Inn: This diner we ate at on Friday was actually my first experience with the chain. Inside, the restaurant is decorated in a motif of pale orange and teal, seemingly an homage to the popular Howard Johnson's restaurants of 40+ years ago. I figure that's deliberate as this kind of restaurant caters to people who remember fondly the restaurant scene of 40+ years ago. How was it? I found the menu uninteresting... unless you want breakfast all day or a burger. I'm not much of a breakfast person, especially at 1pm, so I ordered a burger. It was okay. I have no interest in returning. Hawk wanted to go again a day later; I insisted we choose a local diner, specifically one with a broader menu, instead.

canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Our week-long trip to Colorado earlier this month was paid for, as we do with most of our trips, with a combination of points and cash. Five Things:

  1. The flights, I purchased using points in one direction and cash the other. I decided that based on a complicated calculus I use for valuing when to spend points vs. earn points on Southwest Airlines.

  2. The reason we flew Southwest, aside from its schedule convenience on routes such as SJC-DEN, is the Companion Pass elite benefit I've attained for the past several years. It's basically a 2-for-1 sale whenever Hawk flies with me.

  3. Most of our stays were paid for with points and free-night certs. We only spent cash for two nights. Those were the two we were in an AirBnB.

  4. Some of the hotel nights/certs were mine, some were Hawk's. Often we focus on using mine as I pursue earning them more, but she has a lot piled up with Marriott and IHG that we want to ensure we get value from, too.

  5. Gas was a cash expense. In the past I've rarely included gas in my calculation of travel expenses, but since it's gotten so expensive lately it's become a drag on the fun of road-tripping. On this trip we drove our rental truck 1,340 miles. At an average fuel economy of 24mpg (impressive for a pickup truck!) and an average gas price of $5/gallon, that works out to $279. ...Which, okay, that's less than any one of several of our hotel nights were. Though we paid those on points.

canyonwalker: Message in a bottle (blogging)
Twelve days. That's the final answer: 12 days. My blogging about our recent trip to Colorado fell 12 days behind. We got home on the 10th, but I only finished pushing out my blogs about it today, the 22nd.

It totally makes sense, though. It makes sense I fell so far behind. From 9 days of travel I wrote 45 blogs. If I were to publish them all in real time that would be 5 a day. I certainly don't have time for that much publishing when I'm still on an adventure. It took effort to find time to post two a day while still traveling and 3/day since returning.

And does 45 blogs, 5 a day, seem excessive? No. Not when I'm in the thick of adventurous travel. On our trip to Sedona several weeks ago I wrote 19 blogs, and that was from just 4 days; a similar pace.
canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Colorado Travelog #44
38,000' over Nevada - Sunday, 10 Jul 2022, 9:30am

Our trip to Colorado is just about over. That's definitely true now because we're on the flight back to California! The flight lands at SJC in about 45 minutes, and we should be home-home— as in, in our own house— in about 90 minutes.

It's been a busy day already even though it's only 9:30 (Mountain time) right now. Our alarms rang at 4:45am, and we were up and about by 5am to get dressed. The sun hadn't yet risen but the sky was already getting bright. That helped with getting going at such an early hour. I ate breakfast in the room before we met in the lobby by 5:20 to await the 5:30am shuttle to the airport.

New wing of DEN's Concourse C is airy (Jul 2022)

Our flight departed from DEN's Concourse C, which has been expanded somewhat recently. Signs overhead in the terminal indicate that there will eventually be gates C1..C99. For now it only goes to about 75. The new parts of the concourse are bright and airy... but have almost no food sales. That didn't matter for me as I'd eaten enough in the room from the food I bought last night at 7-Eleven, but Hawk was hungry and couldn't find many choices.

Once aboard the aircraft I found my usual seat in the exit row, with extra legroom. Yay, elite status. And now I'm enjoying a complimentary drink.

Enjoying a beer on the flight home (Jul 2022)

...Yes, it's beer. At 9:30am. I know I've said before I don't drink before lunch, but given that I've been up almost 5 hours now it seems like it's almost time for lunch.


canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
Colorado Travelog #43
Near DEN Airport - Saturday, 9 Jul 2022, 11pm

Well, it's been another long day. We finished up our hike at Maroon Bells (previous blog) and took the next bus back down to Aspen. We left Aspen in our own car between 3:30 and 4pm.

Weirdly Aspen has no cell phone reception. Or, at least the downtown-ish area where the buses depart had no coverage. So we weren't able to check directions back to Denver until after we started. Thus I started driving by reversing our route back to Glenwood Springs, and from there to Denver along I-70.

It turns out that's not the fastest route. It's only slower by about 10 minutes, but the faster route would've had the advantage of taking us through a small part of Colorado, around Leadville, I haven't seen before. I like seeing new places, and Leadville is interesting. At elev. 10,152 feet (3,094 m) it's the highest incorporated city in the US.

On the other hand, the slightly slower route back to Glenwood Springs means another chance to drive the beautiful Glenwood Canyon:

Driving through Glenwood Canyon on I-70 (Jul 2022)

With stops for snacks along the way we arrived at our hotel outside Denver Airport just before 8. We checked in and wheeled the bags to the room. Hawk stayed there to repack the bags for our flight tomorrow while I went back to the car to fill gas and return it to the airport.

DEN is one of those airports where everything just takes longer than it should, and returning the car this evening was no exception. After gassing up the car and returning it to the rental depot I had to shuttle to the airport then wait for the hotel shuttle. All in all it took 90 minutes. It felt like it should have taken 30.

By the time I was back to the room again it was going on 10pm... and I realized I really wished I'd eaten dinner. I didn't want another wait-for-things-that-go-slow rigamarole, particularly since I have to be up before 5am tomorrow 😖 so I walked over to a 7-Eleven two blocks from the hotel and grabbed some hot food off their rollers and a can of beer. It wasn't elegant but it got the job done.

Now that I'm fed and able to relax I'm unwinding before going to bed. I took a look at my driving log. Here are a few stats on our driving mileage this week:

Miles driven today: 268
Total miles driven the last 8 days: 1,340
Day with the least driving: Friday, 28 miles!
Day with the most driving: last Saturday, 297 miles

I'll note that 268 miles, or even 297 miles, would not be a lot of driving if driving were all I did that day. That driving is in addition to spending several hours hiking each day!
canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #42
Aspen, CO - Saturday, 9 Jul 2022, 1:30pm

On the way up to Crater Lake at the foot of the Maroon Bells I wrote a bunch about flowers (see previous blog). One thing I didn't write about is the altitude. We are high up! Maroon Lake, where we started hiking, is at just over 9,500' elevation. In getting here to Crater Lake we are now above 10,000'.

Maroon Bells at Crater Lake (Jul 2022)

Probably being out here at 5,000' ~ 9,000' elevation for the past week has helped with acclimation. Still, it was a bit of huffing and puffing to get up here. That's part of why we stopped and looked at flowers so much. 😅 But now we're right at the foot of the 14,000'+ Maroon Peak.

Waterfalls at Maroon Bells (Jul 2022)

You might notice on the right flank of Maroon Peak there's a waterfall. While many who'd made the climb up to Crater Lake today were content to splash around in the lake a bit and head back downhill, we continued onward to see if we could find a better view of the falls.

Aaaand... what's better than a view of the falls, but a view of two falls? 🤣

Waterfalls at Maroon Bells (Jul 2022)

Yes, there's a second waterfall to the left of the first one we saw. The one of the left has a much larger single drop, a tall, fine spray of water that drifts back and forth in the breeze. It's in a crevice, though, so it's only visible to folks who hike up this way.

Maroon Bells at Crater Lake (Jul 2022)

Alas, now it's time for our hike back downhill, too. We're getting into the afternoon, it's still 1.5 miles downhill, then we have to wait for a bus to Aspen, then we have a few hundred miles of driving still to do! 😨

But for now.... In beauty I walk.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #41
Aspen, CO - Saturday, 9 Jul 2022, 12:30pm

As we arrived at Maroon Lake after a 20-25 minute bus ride from Aspen the driver informed us that there were guided tours available at 10:30am. We're rarely the "Let's go with a tour group!" type of travelers, preferring to explore on our own without being crowded by people complaining about the weather, the sunshine, and the lack of proximity to Starbucks, McDonald's, and flush toilets. We at least asked, though, what the tours would entail. When we found out that they would be small size, no greater than 10 people including the guide, and would be led by a naturalist, we were interested. When we saw that nobody else was interested, we got really interested. 🤣

Well, by the time the ranger got moving, the group had grown to 6 plus her, but that was a fine group size. At least everyone was prepared for the hike and in good enough physical shape to do it, plus interested in learning while we walked.

Flowers in the Maroon Bells (Jul 2022)

Our guide's forte was flowers. That wasn't exactly what we expected. One of the other guides said it would be about geology. Our guide obliquely said that geology was his specialty. But that's okay; I know more about geology than flowers, so I'm good to learn!

Unfortunately, though, I'm not great at remember things about flowers. Like, I can barely remember their names. That fushcia one above? No idea was it is. Ditto this lilac colored one next.

Flowers in the Maroon Bells (Jul 2022)

There was one new-to-me flower I remember the name of. It's the orange sneeze-bag, or something like that. Yes, I totally remember that one because its name is amusing. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of it. It was off the path, where I'd need my telephoto lens to get a good picture of it, and it was in deep shade.

Columbine (Jul 2022)

This flower (above) I know the name of only because Hawk told me while I was preparing to publish this blog. It's a columbine. It's the state flower of Colorado!

Columbine (Jul 2022)

Since columbine is the state flower I'll include two photos of them here. This second columbine picture (above) shows the color variation in the species. This one has more clearly differentiated purple and white leaves, while the first one has a fainter purple color.

Our little tour group was a fun group to walk with. Two of the members were older than us, an Indian couple who live on a Caribbean island and have traveled the world. It was fun comparing notes with them about some of the places we've both visited and getting tips on places we've yet to see. The other couple were younger but also world-wise. "The US is the 6th country I've lived in," one noted. All in all this was quite pleasantly the opposite of what too many of the few group tours we've joined have been like.

Nearing Crater Lake at the foot of the Maroon Bells (Jul 2022)

The cadence of our group's chit-chat changed when we broke out of the forest onto the moraine below Crater Lake. Here we could see the Maroon Bells clearly again, and everyone focused on getting there.

Oh, wait, there was one more flower we talked about.

Ooh, I know this one! It's a dandelion. (Jul 2022)

"Wow, I haven't seen a dandelion in a long time!" I exclaimed.

"OMG, what a beautiful flower!" one of the group said. "I've never seen one before. What did you call it?"

OMG, you really haven't seen a dandelion before? I thought to myself. In the eastern US they grow as weeds. My parents had hundreds of them in their yard every summer until my dad started paying a lawn service to take care of them.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #40
Aspen, CO - Saturday, 9 Jul 2022, 10:30am

This morning we got up early, packed our bags and loaded the truck, checked out from our hotel in Glenwood Springs, and drove an hour south to Aspen. It's part of an audible we called a few days ago to realize an aspiration of mine since 1990, thirty-two years ago, to visit the place in this picture:

lkmarron.gif, an image I first downloaded in 1990! (Jul 2022)

Just getting to Aspen wasn't the end of the story. From there we had to park and ride a bus 25 minutes up to the lake. Bus tickets are limited; Saturday was the only day this trip I was able to find 2 seats at a reasonable time, which meant extending our trip from Saturday to Sunday in addition to rebooking a few nights of hotels. But we did all that, and now.....

At Maroon Lake with the Maroon Bells in the background (Jul 2022)

Boom! 💥

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Colorado Travelog #39
Glenwood Springs, CO - Friday, 8 Jul 2022, 10pm

I've written before about weekends fast and slow. Today is a day with both fast and slow. This morning was pretty busy. We hiked to Hanging Lake. We were there for 4 hours, and I wrote five blogs about it. Now it's been over 9 hours since we left, and I only have one blog about that. Because we're taking it easy now.

Our first order of business after the hike was to get some lunch. We decided on Village Inn, a diner in town. Though it's a chain I'm not sure I've been to one before. Inside the teal and orange motif is reminiscent of the old Howard Johnson's from 40+ years ago. I imagine that's deliberate as this kind of restaurant caters to people who remember fondly the restaurant scene of 40+ years ago. I found the menu uninteresting... unless you want breakfast all day or a burger. I'm not much of a breakfast person, especially at 1pm, so I ordered a burger.

After lunch we did a bit of shopping in downtown Glenwood Springs. And by shopping I mean browsing. Everything was expensive. For example, an outdoors store had all the same brands I can buy at REI, for 25% more than REI. And a salesguy there asked me if I was going hiking at Hanging Lake later today. "Nah, man, I already did that this morning," was fun to say.

Mid-afternoon we holed up at the hotel. We soaked in the hot tub for half an hour or so then lazed around the room. Hawk took a nap for a bit while I caught up on got less behind on my blog.

This evening we ordered in food from a Chinese restaurant near the hotel. We ordered big on purpose to have leftovers for breakfast tomorrow. Tomorrow will be another early day, like today, with alarms at 6:30 or 6:45am and a need to be rolling in the car by 8. We're going to Maroon Lake, to make good on a bucket list item I've had for 30+ years!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #38
Glenwood Springs, CO - Friday, 8 Jul 2022, 12pm

When we're not careful the hike back from an amazing place can devolve into putting one foot in front of the other. Our hike down from Hanging Lake and Spouting Rock (previous blogs) was at risk of that happening. Indeed, there were some times on the hike down that we did forget to look around. But often enough we stopped and made ourselves look because there's still so much beauty to see.

Looking out over the steep side canyon that leads to Hanging Lake (Jul 2022)

This stony lookout (photo above) is just below Hanging Lake, on an extremely steep part of the trail. Noobs might stop here at length on the way up to appreciate the far-off vistas. We knew the lake and falls were even more impressive so we saved it for a stop on the way down. 😅

The other thing that kept us— well, me at least— mindful of the hike back down is that last time we were here, 4 years ago, I wrecked my ankle on the trail. It did get better within a few weeks... though today, as if to remind me to be careful, it started throbbing again. I was careful on the way down. There was no need to rush.

Walking beside the Colorado River in Glenwood Canyon (Jul 2022)

The final leg of the hike is the return along the Colorado River through Glenwood Canyon. The don't-get-hurt part of my "no need to rush" plan was no longer relevant here on the broad, nearly level paved trail, but I still went slow and walked over to the river multiple times to take pictures. Hawk pressed on ahead. She was ready for lunch. Speaking of which, I'm hungry, too. I think we're about to cause some damage at a restaurant back in Glenwood Springs.
canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #37
Glenwood Springs, CO - Friday, 8 Jul 2022, 11am

When you visit magnificent Hanging Lake (previous blog) in the White Mountains above Glenwood Canyon it's only a short, if steep, additional trek to Spouting Rock. Judging by the number of people at the lake vs. up at these falls, fewer than half think to complete the trail up the mountain before turning around to head back down.



There are a few neat things about the waterfalls at Spouting Rock. One, you can walk behind the falls. The limestone cliff face is hollowed out, and there's plenty of room to pass behind the falls without even getting wet.

Spouting Rock, above Hanging Lake high in Glenwood Canyon (Jul 2022)

Two, at least right now, there are two waterfalls here. The taller falls pours over a rock lip from a stream that drains the high plateau above Glenwood Canyon. The higher falls does not always flow. During our previous visit, 4 years ago, it was dry. Three, the lower falls pours from a chute in the rock. It comes from an unknown underground source.

Update: the adventure concludes with Hiking Back from Hanging Lake.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #36
Glenwood Springs, CO - Friday, 8 Jul 2022, 10:30am

After ascending 1,000' in the space of just over a mile (see previous blog) we made it to Hanging Lake.

Hanging Lake near Glenwood Springs, CO (Jul 2022)

The lake gets its name because it is "hanging" high up in a narrow canyon created by a fault between two parts of the mountain. The lake is kind of in a pocket near the top the canyon, hemmed in by fallen rock and travertine deposits.

Hanging Lake near Glenwood Springs, CO (Jul 2022)

Hanging Lake is a rare kind of place and one that is increasingly protected. Since we last visited 4 years ago they've instituted trail quotas and a reservation system. There are boardwalks around the lake (which were there 4 years ago, too) and swimming in the pools is prohibited. I'm totally fine with "look but don't touch" so we can preserve this delicate beauty for future generations' enjoyment.

Keep readingIt's only a short bit further uphill to Spouting Rock, and so worth it.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #35
Glenwood Springs, CO - Friday, 8 Jul 2022, 10am

As I noted in my previous blog, the trail to Hanging Lake is steep, ascending 1,000' in just over 1 mile. As we left behind the easy walk along the Colorado River at the bottom of Glenwood Canyon it was up, up, up through a side canyon to Hanging Lake.

Small waterfalls on the climb to Hanging Lake (Jul 2022)

On the way up a small creek kept us company. This water is the outflow from Hanging Lake. The fact that there is any is a positive change from when we hiked this trail 4 years ago. Back then the canyon was dry. Here the water occasionally takes our minds off the grueling ascent.

Small waterfalls on the climb to Hanging Lake (Jul 2022)

The trail crosses the stream 7 times on wooden bridges. The bridges are kind of like milestones, though they're not evenly spaced. Still, they're pleasant places to stop and enjoy the view while catching our breath and resting our aching quads.

This weeping wall means we're almost to Hanging Lake (July 2022)

This weeping wall of falls tells us we're almost there. The lake is just above this area. There's just one more steep bit to go....

A final, steep push to Hanging Lake (Jul 2022)

And that last steep bit is steep. Stairs are caved in the stone with steel guardrails. The views out the canyon from up here are nice, but we don't linger for them as we know they're second prize. First prize is seeing Hanging Lake, just a bit farther up....

UpdateKeep reading as we reach Hanging Lake!



canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #34
Glenwood Springs, CO - Friday, 8 Jul 2022, 8:45am

This morning we awoke early to get ready for hiking to Hanging Lake. You'd think vacation would be an occasion to sleep in but, no, it was alarms at 6:30am. We ate breakfast and readied our packs in the room, and were out the door by 8am. One thing we didn't have to do was pack our suitcases and check out. ...Okay, that's two things; we didn't have to do either of them. We're staying at the Marriott Residence Inn hotel in Glenwood Springs for two consecutive nights. It's only the second time this week we've not had to switch hotels every day.

Another nice thing about this morning is that we didn't have to drive a long way. It was an easy, 15 minute cruise up to the parking lot for Hanging Lake 10 miles outside of town. And with the reservation system the Forest Service has put in place for the trailhead, there was no trouble finding a parking space in the small lot.

Walking through Glenwood Canyon to the Hanging Lake trail (Jul 2022)

The trail to Hanging Lake begins with a 1/2 mile or so walk up the Colorado River in Glenwood Canyon. This is a super easy part of the trail; it's a paved, wide walkway and it's almost totally flat. Oh, and it's beautiful.

Walking through Glenwood Canyon to the Hanging Lake trail (Jul 2022)

The only two small bummers here are 1) there are morning clouds we hope will burn off soon, and 2) the river is flowing brown, presumably because of sediment stirred up and washed down by rains earlier this week. On the plus side, rain earlier this week means the falls at the lake should be flowing well.

The trail to Hanging Lake starts steep... and stays steep (Jul 2022)

Alas, the trail to Hanging Lake isn't all easy and beautiful walking along the Colorado River in Glenwood Canyon. About 1/2 mile up from the parking area the Hanging Lake trail forks off the main canyon path and climbs steeply up a side canyon. It starts steep (see photo above) and basically never relents. It climbs 1,000' in the space of 1.2 miles (300m in 2km).

Keep reading
(next blog): It Goes Up, Up, Up from Here!

canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Colorado Travelog #33
Glenwood Springs, CO - Thursday, 7 Jul 2022, 11pm

We're now settled in Glenwood Springs for the evening. It feels weird to be here again, as we left here 4 days ago. (I know it seems like forever ago... it was 30 blogs ago!) We're even back at the same hotel, in a room that looks exactly the same. (The views out the windows are different; we're on the opposite side of the building this time.)

It wasn't our plan to double back to Glenwood Springs, at least not originally. It came about when we called an audible and re-planned the second half of this trip two nights ago. But now we're here for two (more) nights. Tomorrow we'll hike Hanging Lake and Saturday we'll drive to Aspen to hike Maroon Lake. We could've stayed a night in Aspen instead but it's literally twice as expensive as here, an hour away. We'll drive an hour to save hundreds of dollars.

Speaking of driving, we got into town late-ish this evening. It was barely 9pm, but it felt later. We'd driven 220 miles in addition to hike several miles in several locations. It was a full day. All we needed was dinner. Well, and a room for the night. But we went to dinner before checking in. We picked an Italian restaurant downtown. Hawk crushed a bowl of pasta and I demolished half a pizza. The other half's now in our refrigerator to be my breakfast. Mmm, cold pizza, the breakfast of champions!

As we left the restaurant we realized we had just 10 minutes or so until stores closed for the evening at 10pm. I wanted to buy some beer... and Hawk wanted to pick up our new suitcase. Yes, if you remember from when we left here 4 days ago, we threw an old, broken suitcase in the trash bin. In the time since then we've done some shopping online. The best deal we found was for a suitcase at Target, with in-store pickup available. There's a target a few blocks from our hotel, so we ordered it from that store's inventory. Thus on the drive to the hotel this evening I dropped Hawk at Target and continued to the liquor store. We met back up at the truck, her with suitcase in hand, and me with a 6-pack of beer. That seems so... appropriate for pickup truck drivers.
canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #32
Hays Creek Falls, CO - Thursday, 7 Jul 2022, 8pm

We left the north rim of Black Canyon of the Gunnison after finishing up our hike to Exclamation Point and put the pedal to the metal. It was already a full day; yet we still had a few hours of driving to get to Glenwood Springs, our stop for the night. We wanted to be able to eat dinner at a reasonable hour and get to bed not too late— as we have another full day tomorrow, starting with a hiking reservation for Hanging Lake at 8:30am.

Driving from the remote north rim of Black Canyon to Glenwood Springs took us through a remote area of Colorado. In the valleys and mesas out here are a handful of small towns, all rural agricultural and mining towns. We looked for eats to see if we could at least have dinner before 10pm... but one Crawford had basically no restaurants, Hotchkiss had a few that were mostly closed, and Paonia was mostly wineries (that were also closed). I ate a protein bar to stave off hunger. It was my third bar of the day; basically the only food I've eaten!

We pressed on through the valleys and up over a high pass, aiming to reach Glenwood Springs as early as possible. It seemed we'd make it before 9— early enough still to get dinner and early enough to settle down for the night afterward at a reasonable hour. We were making good time as we climbed over the McClure Pass at 9,000'... then after dropping back down the other side we saw something that stopped us in our tracks. A waterfall. 😂

Hays Creek Falls is one we've actually been to before. I thought the stretch of road looked familiar when we passed the junction with State Route 3. Spotting these falls while zooming past at 55mph confirmed it. We visited these falls (briefly) when we were driving in the opposite direction to the almost-ghost town of Crystal, CO on a trip 4 years ago.

Of course, we didn't just blast past the falls at 55mph. I hit the brakes, pulled off on a wide spot in the road, made a quick U-turn, and drove back to the small parking pull-out in front of the falls.

Hays Creek Falls near Redstone, CO (Jul 2022)

From the road you can partly see the falls; that's how I knew where we were & that it was worth stopping. From the small parking area a walk of just a few tens of meters brings you up to the rock apron at the base of the falls where I snapped the photo above.

The entire stop took only about 10 minutes. Thus it wasn't really a setback in our timing to get to Glenwood Springs. But even if it had taken 30 minutes it would've been worth it. I guess I could always have a fourth protein bar for dinner if need be. 🤢

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #31
Crawford, CO - Thursday, 7 Jul 2022, 6pm

Like the much more famous Grand Canyon in the US, Black Canyon of the Gunnison has both a South Rim and a North Rim. And in both parks it takes hours to drive around from one to the other. The normally 2½ hour drive here was made longer by road construction, which cost us at least 30 minutes in delays, plus our choice to stop and hike a bit at Curecanti National Recreation Area. As such we didn't begin the trail to Exclamation Point on the north rim until about 4:15pm, over an hour later than we wanted. The days are long; but would there still be enough light in the canyon by the time we got to Exclamation Point to make the views worthy of their name?

We set out from the ranger station (already closed for the day) on a 3 mile round-trip trek. The route starts at 7,700' elevation, dips a bit from there, then climbs gently to back up to Exclamation Point. We blasted through the trail, making barely any stops. The elevation seemed not to faze us. ...Which wasn't entirely surprising, as we've now had several days and nights at 5,000' ~ 7,000' to help acclimate. Even so, our pace was surprisingly fast. "I'm being powered by spite and frustration," Hawk quipped. I agreed. This may be the first time we've rage-hiked a trail.

In less than 45 minutes we reached a small wooden sign marking a little turnoff from the main trail. Someone had scratched a punctuation into. It read, appropriately, "EXCLAMATION POINT!"

Exclamation Point at Black Canyon of the Gunnison (Jul 2022)

Exclamation Point is high on the cliffs atop the canyon where the Gunnison River, roughly 2,000' below, makes a sharp turn. You can look downstream, as in the photo above... or see the whole thing as in the photo below.

Exclamation Point at Black Canyon of the Gunnison (Jul 2022)

Would the views have been better if we'd gotten here an hour earlier, when there was more light reaching down into the canyon? Yes. Was it still absolutely worth it coming here now? Also yes.

Part of what was cool about being out here on the remote north rim was that we had the place largely to ourselves. I think we passed all of 3 hikers the whole time. And 2 were leaving as we were starting; after that we saw only 1 other person.

We're not totally disconnected from other people, though, We can see them across the canyon on the south rim! We see cars moving along the park road over there, and sometimes can barely make out the shapes of people (especially if they're wearing bright colors) at the vista points on the edge of the cliff.

Tom Stienstra, an outdoors writer we've followed for years, notes that 95% of park visitors visit only the same, easy parts of the park. As he'd guide people to some of the lesser visited areas he'd quip, "Welcome to the 5% Club." Earlier today we were over on the south rim with everyone else; but by being here now we're in the 5%.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Rim Trail (Jul 2022)

We stayed at Exclamation Point for a while before turning back. On the hike back we once again set a swift pace. This time we weren't worried so much about daylight as what time we'd get back to the car to complete our drive on to Glenwood Springs, hours away. I did stop for a few pictures, though, as we hiked back along the canyon rim.

These are spots where, on the hike in, I said to myself, "Yeah, I'll stop and photograph that on the way out." The photo above shows a view down a side canyon. The spot of blue you see at the deepest part is the Gunnison River. Again, the canyon wall behind it is roughly 2,000' tall.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Rim Trail (Jul 2022)

Here's another view looking downriver in the canyon. The cliff on the right is Painted Wall, which we saw from the opposite side of the canyon on one of the short hikes we did along the South Rim earlier today. It towers over 2,200' above the river. Where was it 30 minutes earlier when we were at Exclamation Point? ...It was under our feet.

In beauty I walk.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #30
Cimarron, CO - Thursday, 7 Jul 2022, 3pm

Although we left Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park just after noon today after a bunch of short hikes this morning we're not done with it. We left the south rim. We're driving around to the north rim! The canyon is so deep this is one of those cases where the opposite rims are a few hundred meters apart yet a 2½ hour drive around.

The drive today took even longer than that as there are several miles of road construction on US 50. (Yes, that US 50, "The Loneliest Road in America".) We were stopped several times to allow crews and machines to do their work. "We should have gone the other way around," I fumed. But the other way around wouldn't have brought us through Curecanti National Recreation Area. We turned adversity to serendipity as we stopped at one of the area's vista points and hiked around a bit.

Curecanti National Recreation Area (Jul 2022)

A National Recreation Area is a different designation than a National Park. It's lower on the protection scale and more generous on the access scale. That's why, e.g., you see a power boat on the water in the picture above.

Geology-wise, it's basically the same place as Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The Gunnison River flows through narrow, steep canyons over 1,000' feet deep.

Curecanti National Recreation Area (Jul 2022)

There's more water up here in this part of the canyon because it's controlled by dams. The dams are managed to maintain this part of the canyon as a reservoir. About 5 miles upstream, past one of the dams, the canyon is much lower and wider, allowing easy access to the river.

Now it's pedal-to-the-metal again to get to Black Canyon of the Gunnison's north rim before the light fades. Update: see how it turns out!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #28
Montrose, CO - Thursday, 7 Jul 2022, 12:15pm

Today we're visiting Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. It's a small park in remote western Colorado. We were here one time before, several years ago, but it was gloomy and drizzly that day. Today there's plenty of clear weather on tap here, so it's worth a return trip.

First we stopped at the visitors center around 9:30 and walked out to Gunnison Point. Here you get a sense of what Black Canyon of the Gunnison is about. It is a narrow, deep gorge; the steepest, deepest, narrowest gorge in North America. It's up to 2,250' (685 m) deep and, at some points, only tens of meters wide. The Grand Canyon is deeper, more than twice as deep at points, but it's also thousands of meters wide.

Gunnison Point at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (Jul 2022)

One thing you see in the above picture, BTW, is that the left (north) side of the canyon is much steeper than the right (south). This is a consequence of being in the northern hemisphere. In the winter, when the area receives most of its precipitation, the southern rim (facing north) is shaded by the low angle of the sun, while the northern rim (facing south) is exposed. The southern rim thus experiences a lot more ice formation, and the ice thawing and re-freezing breaks up the rocks. The sunnier, exposed northern rim gets very little ice thus much less erosion.

Our method this morning at the park has been mostly car touring. There are numerous short trails atop the cliffs. Every half mile or so there's another small pull-out on the side of the road with a trail of a few hundred meters. The only hiking alternative to skirting the top of the cliffs is to venture down into the gorge.... There are several marked trails for that, but they are incredibly steep and strenuous, entailing a near-vertical descent of 2,000' elevation and then a return of the same. That's way more than we're in shape for, so we're hopping out for multiple cliff-top trails.

Painted Wall at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (Jul 2022)

I'm not sharing pictures of all the places we hopped out for short hikes. There are too many of them, and the pictures start to blur together after a while. I chose the second picture above because it's unique. This is Painted Wall. This is the deepest part of the canyon; that one rock face, with the light striations on it, is 2,250' tall. The main part of the wall is gneiss, a metamorphic rock formed upwards of 2 billion years ago. The striations are a much younger volcanic intrusion. They are mostly quartz (the 2nd most common mineral in the earth's crust) with some feldspar (the most common mineral in the earth's crust) and mica.

Again, in this picture you can see the steepness of the canyon. The scale may be hard to tell... that greenery that looks like bushes are full grown trees. In person standing atop cliffs like this and looking down is dizzying. The mind struggles to comprehend the sheer scale of what's below the feet.

Tomichi Point at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (Jul 2022)

The third and final picture I'm sharing here is Tomichi Point. Here again you can see the depth and steepness of the canyon, but also the presence of some of the side canyons. This is the most popular spot for descending to the river at the bottom of the canyon. By going down the side canyon it's only a 60° slope!
canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Colorado Travelog #27
Montrose, CO - Thursday, 7 Jul 2022, 7:30am

I forgot to mention in my post last night about relaxing in Montrose, CO that we're enjoying a suite here at the Holiday Inn Express. It's a complimentary upgrade I got as a Platinum elite in IHG's frequent guest program.

People often wonder what kinds of perks global traveler elites enjoy. Here's a perfect example of the kinds of upgrade we score, occasionally.



Note a massive upgrade like this is not common. This is the biggest upgrade I've gotten at IHG in about 8 years!

We really enjoyed the extra space to stretch out and get our work done.

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