canyonwalker: wiseguy (Default)
Panama Travelog #Whatever
Everywhere we went - The whole damn week.

Our trip to Panama in late December, which we returned from a week ago, was an exercise in joy and frustration. Exercise is an unfortunately apropos term as it often took effort to find the joy and hold onto any sense of it amidst all the setbacks.

What went wrong? Lots of things big and small. I'll group it into categories as Five Things:


Okay, so that's six things when I promised 5. Even when I group the problems by category there are still too many.

"Okay, so it wasn't perfect," you might respond. "Whenever is a trip perfect?" And haven't I congratulated myself before on planning flexibly so I can call an audible when plans need to change?

Sure, I know things don't go perfectly. That's what I plan to be ready to call an audible when necessary. But understand that calling an audible means crossing things off the list and skipping them. It's fine to do that a small number of times. After a certain number of times it's just frustrating.

What's the frustration, BTW? Aren't there other things I can do? The frustration is about money and opportunity.

Money: We spent several thousand dollars on this trip. It's a real pisser when things we aim to do are suddenly not available. Sure, there are other things to do, but when I get down to having to choose between fourth and fifth choice, is it still worth the thousands of dollars to be here? If I'd known in advance I may have chosen not to go there. ...And gone elsewhere instead. Which leads to the second issue....

Opportunity: Possibly more so than wasting money it's wasted time. I have finite opportunities for international trips like this. Recently it's been 1-2 a year. I do not have an infinite number of years of life. Fewer, even, of active, globe-trotting, get-outdoors-and-do-stuff life. This trip means using up a ticket from a very limited number of tickets in my proverbial ticket book. It infuriates me to see that I've burned one of those tickets on a trip that hits failures left, right, and center.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
On our last full day in New Zealand was a busy one as we drove out west and north Auckland to hike some waterfalls and visit some beaches. It was one of those days where we didn't get to do everything we wanted to do. But it was also one where we enjoyed some things we hadn't planned. That's why I've remarked so many times in my travel blogs about "calling an audible": maintaining enough flexibility to shift plans in real time when something's not working as planned.

We did that a few days earlier at Tongariru National Park when we bailed out of hiking Waitonga Falls due to rain. The value in being good at the flexibility around calling an audible is that we made what might have been a negative experience of "Oh, we missed doing this hike because of rain" into a positive experience of having more time to enjoy other planned hikes like Taranaki Falls plus adding some unplanned sightseeing with those summit views and surprise waterfalls at Turoa and Whakapapa.

On our day outside of Auckland it wasn't weather that forced us to call an audible. The weather wasn't great, though ultimately it's not what stopped us. It was closures. One of our planned hikes that day was Kitekite Falls, and it turned out the road to it was closed because of construction. So what did we do? Two things. First, we spent that time trekking the black sands of Piha Beach. Second, we allowed ourselves more time to spend at our final planned stop of the day, Omeru and Waitangi Falls. And it's good we did because there were more waterfalls there than we expected!

Unnamed Falls in Omeru Scenic Reserve (Apr 2024)

The trail at Omeru Scenic Preserve drops down a steep hill from the parking area then crosses a bridge to a split in the track. To the left, it loops around to Waitangi Falls. To the right, it leads a short distance to a small picnic area overlooking this falls. One might think this is Omeru Falls, the namesake of the park, especially as a nicely graded track leads right to it. But it's not. Omeru Falls is actually not on any trail. It's off to the side, through the woods.

Unnamed Falls in Omeru Scenic Reserve (Apr 2024)

Names? We don't need no steenkin' names! We enjoyed spending time at Not-Omeru Falls, whatever its real name is.

And you know how I said Omeru Falls is off to the side, though the woods? Do you know how I know that? Uh-huh. Because we went there, because we're not afraid of a little bushwhacking. Pics of the hidden, real Omeru Falls plus Waitangi Falls coming next in this series....

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
It's time to get back to Tongariro National Park. ...No, not literally. It's 7,000+ miles away, and we already enjoyed a packed day-trip to Tongariro National Park on our trip to New Zealand last month. It's time to get back to writing about that trip!

One thing I find memorable about that day is that we called an audible around 10:30am. I've written before about calling an audible when traveling and how it's important in travel. This one's also memorable because it recalls for me a few lines from the chorus the 1972 Elton John song, Honky Cat:

🎵 It's like trying to find gold in a silver mine
It's like trying to drink whiskey, oh, from a bottle of wine 🎵

I know, "Hiking in New Zealand" and "Elton John songs from 1972" seem to have little to do with one another. So let me explain.


What does an Elton John song from 1972
have to do with hiking in the mountains of New Zealand?
I'd been really wanting to hike Waitonga Falls. Of the 4 hikes we scoped out in the park, it was the one I wanted to do most. But the weather had been crummy since early morning and wasn't getting any better after temporizing for an hour or two with a short hike to Mangawhero Falls and a scenic drive. In fact it started raining harder. And the heavy clouds stretched on for tens of miles (we could see them from above when we were on the flank of the summit at Turoa) so it wasn't likely to get much better for hours, if ever that day.

Hiking Waitonga Falls— and not just merely hiking it, but hiking it in weather that didn't suck— was the gold I wanted to find, the whiskey I wanted to drink. Unfortunately bad weather meant neither was available.

After several moments of fretting I accepted that I wasn't going to get what I wanted. Moreover, I accepted that when I can't get my first choice of hiking in beautiful weather, "Hike anyway but in shitty weather" is not necessarily the second choice! I decided that somewhere else the weather was probably better. In fact that view from above at Turoa made it look like the other side of the mountain wasn't so cloudy. So I decided to bail out on hiking Waitonga and drive on to the next place on our itinerary. Maybe I'd find the proverbial gold mine there.


canyonwalker: My old '98 M3 convertible (road trip!)
New Zealand Travelog #10
Papatowai, NZ - Wed, 10 Apr 2024, 2:30pm

This morning we called an audible on our plans. The weather was looking to be crummy again for the whole day, clouds all day and rain starting soon, so it wasn't a great day for hiking in the mountains around Queenstown. Yeah, we made the best of it yesterday, but we weren't up for a second day of it. And today we didn't even get to start off with a beautiful sunrise over Lake Wakatipu. At dawn today the sky basically just transitioned from dark gray to medium gray. Instead of fighting it out to see if we could even see the mountains through the clouds we decided to pull the plug on Queenstown and do a roadtrip visiting waterfalls in The Catlins.

Re-planning the day's activity wasn't too hard. Hawk had already built a list of waterfalls we might like to see in the Catlins, the coastal mountains on the southeastern corner of New Zealand's South Island. When we were planning the trip we thought we might spend a day or so out in this region, but then we scrapped it because we were crunched for time with so many other worthy things we wanted to see and do. Well, when one of those worthier things (mountains around Queenstown) turns less worthy (due to rain), something else (the Catlins) moves up the list.

I'm jotting down these thoughts right now as we're halfway through our trip. We're in the small town of Papatowai eating lunch. It's a very small town. There's, like, one gas station here, and it's also a restaurant and general store.

So far it's been a good day. We've visited a few waterfalls already. The weather's not great; it's still cloudy and raining lightly. But while that's crummy weather for seeing mountains it's actually halfway decent weather for seeing waterfalls. We'll visit a few more after lunch and then complete our drive on to Te'Anau, where we're staying for the next two days.

Update: Here are journal entries I posted later with photos and details of the 4 waterfall hikes:
canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Australia Travelog #37
Leura, NSW - Sat, 30 Dec 2023, 10:45am

This morning we bounced early from our hike at Katoomba Falls. We visited a few sites near the rim then decided to come back and do the falls itself later in the day, when the sunlight is more favorable for taking pictures. What else to do, then? Oh, there's plenty! While hiking Katoomba Falls has been one of my top priorities the past few days, hiking Bridal Veil Falls in Leura Canyon has been one of Hawk's. So we went to Bridal Veil falls next. The trailhead was only a mile or two away.

As likely a trailhead as any in Leura, NSW (Dec 2023)

I mentioned before that one of the cool things about there being towns right up against the edge of this park and the canyons where all the waterfalls are is that there are so many ways in. Here I looked at a map of town and basically picked a spot where there was a road nearby a bunch of trails. It didn't matter that the road was closed (see above); in fact that was a good thing because it meant that there'd be a dead end that likely had on-street parking.

Indeed there was parking, and it was less than half full when we arrived still relatively early in the morning at 10am. I've noticed that stuff really only gets busy around here at noon. In the US at a marquee national park like this, on a Saturday in the summer, you'd want to get here by 7am for any hope of grabbing the last parking space.

Taking a look from Bridal Veil Lookout, Leura NSW (Dec 2023)

The gated off street, Cliff Drive, is itself a safe route to walk, though it's not particularly scenic. Fortunately there's a trail just beyond it that edges around the rim of the canyon. The rim trail also has spurs off to several overlook points in this area— another part of why I picked this spot to start. In the photo above Hawk is looking out over the canyon from Bridal Veil Lookout.

Bridal Veil Falls, Leura NSW (Dec 2023)

Of course, Bridal Veil Lookout gets its name from its view of Bridal Veil Falls down in the canyon. The photo above shows the view of the falls from up here near the canyon rim.

There's a trail that goes to the bottom of Bridal Veil Falls. There's also a trail that goes to the bottom of Leura Falls even further down the canyon. The tree canopy is too thick to see Leura Falls from up here. But even hiking to the bottom of Bridal Veil Falls is a descent of a few hundred feet— and hence a climb of a few hundred feet on the return.

My ankle is still sprained at this point. Hawk gives me a silent look that doesn't need words. I know what the question is. And by now you should know what the answer is. Square your jaw and say it with me. There is no back, only forward.

On the trail to Bridal Veil Falls, Leura, NSW (Dec 2023)

The way down the canyon is at least beautiful itself.

But soon enough the beneath-the-rim rainforest gives way to stairs.

Stairs on the trail to Bridal Veil Falls, Leura, NSW (Dec 2023)

Stairs, stairs, stairs. The set above is just one of several. But the beauty of the falls seems worth the pain of the trip. In beauty I walk, and There is no back only forward.

Update: amazing views from the foot of Bridal Veil Falls in part 2!


canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Oregon 2023 Travelog #8
Back home. Tue, 4 Jul 2023, 3:45pm

We're home now from our holiday weekend trip to Oregon. Although we bailed out early today we still managed to see and do so much the past 3 days. Here are a few thoughts:

Always have a Plan B (and C, and D)

Bailing out of hiking today was a hard choice but the right one. We then switched to a Plan B, which fell through, as did Plan C. We quickly figured out a Plan D of going home early and having a cook-out dinner with friends. As far as fourth choices go, I"m looking forward to it!

Oh, and we had more time than expected to unpack from this flight and get ready to have friends over for dinner... because our Southwest flight actually arrived early. Imagine that!

What I forgot this trip

I've joked many times before that every trip I forget one thing. The one thing I forgot this time was a doozy... almost. I forgot the charger for my computer! The moment I realized the mistake I started thinking about how to ration my computer's battery charge for 4 days. Then I remembered that my MacBook Air can charge via MagSafe adapter or USB-C. Hawk had a USB-C power brick, so I was good borrowing hers twice. Not that I really had a lot of time to use my computer on this trip; we were too busy hiking, driving, and doing other fun stuff.

Blogging backlog

As usual with these trips I'm behind on blogging. I did manage to keep the pace with our epic, 8-waterfall hike on Saturday by combining short video clips I made at seven of the falls into a nice video montage. Posting just one video from so many amazing sights seems anticlimactic, though. And anyway I didn't record as much video at the 7 or 8 waterfalls we hiked Monday, nor the three we hiked Saturday. Oh, and then there's the raptor center we also visited on Saturday. I'll be posting photos from those great trips for... oh, about the next week, I figure.

canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Oregon 2023 Travelog #7
PDX Airport. Tue, 4 Jul 2023, 11am

We're cutting short our holiday weekend trip to the Pacific Northwest. Not by a lot; we're just going home 4 hours early. But we did throw in the towel on further adventuring today.

It started with not wanting to get up today at the crack of dawn. Dawn's crack is, like, 5:30am anyway. I slept in 'til almost 7, then puttered around while Hawk slept in a bit later. Our plan had been to get up extra early to get in a hike before it gets too hot today. Yes, hot, in Portland. The forecast high is 97°! Yes, that's Fahrenheit, not Kelvin.

Ultimately it wasn't time or temperature that did us in. It was aches and pains. Hawk's back has been touch-and-go since a surprise torn muscle two weeks ago, and both of us pushed it pretty hard the past few days. We hiked 8 waterfalls on Saturday, 3 more on Sunday, and 7 more yesterday. I have a sore on one of my feet now, so I'm hobbling.

Even so I still considered hiking Beacon Rock this morning, a short hike (about 1.5 miles round trip) but steep, with almost 600' elevation gain. I figured I'd hobble and take it slow. But then I decided discretion was the better part of valor. I'm glad for that now as, at the airport, I'm hobbling badly.

Alas we didn't just go from 60 to zero on our plans for today. There were frustrating half steps on the way down to zero. First we figured we'd do a bunch of drive-to or short-hike waterfalls along the Columbia Gorge. There are lots of falls here. But the biggest one, Multnomah Falls, is now on a permit system. Permits were sold out until late this afternoon. Then we figured we'd go for just a scenic drive, but the road was closed. Then we decided, "Fuck it, let's just go home early."

Fortunately "let's just go home" doesn't mean the enjoyment of the weekend is over. We'll get back to the house around 3, which is plenty of time to get unpacked, relax, enjoy dinner, and do other stuff. We've invited a few friends to join us. The plan now is to grill burgers, drink some beer, and play boardgames.

canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
San Antonio Travelog #7
Back home - Mon, 28 May 2023, 8pm

Sunday night we called an audible on our trip to San Antonio. We decided to leave earlier today, rebooking to a flight departing at 12:10pm instead of our originally planned 7:10pm. That meant no more sightseeing today... but that was okay with us because we'd really maximized our time Saturday and Sunday. Basically we already saw & did almost everything we wanted to see & do in San Antonio. Leaving early would cost us little in terms of opportunity while making it a lot easier to transition to the work-week.

The extra time at home on Sunday really made a difference. The new flights got us home 7.5 hours earlier. We got home in the middle of the afternoon, unpacked our bags, had a mid-afternoon snack (lunch had been early because of the 2 hour timezone change), then sat down to watch a movie together. After that we made a small dinner at home and took it easy for the rest of the evening. Update: I even got to bed early so that I began the work-week on Tuesday (short week because of Memorial Day) with a full night's sleep— instead of starting the week feeling run ragged after getting home from yet-another trip at almost midnight.

canyonwalker: Uh-oh, physics (Wile E. Coyote)
Earlier today I wrote about canceling one beach trip in favor of another. It seems an easy call, right? Two trips now on the books, they seem redundant, so let's keep the better one and take back the time and money from the other. Unfortunately it's not as simple as that.

The difficulty is that I'm struggling to justify the whole rest of the trip beginning Friday now that Florida has been canceled. New Orleans, Mississippi, and Florida were like three legs of a tripod. Take one away, and the others don't stand well.

What do I care about in New Orleans? I'm not sure anymore. Carousing on Bourbon Street was amazing when I was in my 20s. Now, it's like, why do I need to pay exorbitant prices to drink overly sugared cheap booze on the street while party-goers throwing up in the gutters? I've got far better booze at home, far cheaper, and the only person I have to worry about throwing up on my own shoes is me. 🤣

What do I care about Mississippi? On an absolute scale, not much. It's a culturally backwards, politically authoritarian shit-hole. But it's also on my bucket list to visit all the states in the US. Mississippi is one of the last two.

We seriously considered pulling the plug on the whole trip. N.O. I wouldn't miss. Mississippi I'd be miffed about missing because of the bucket list thing. And frankly I'd be miffed about not traveling because then I wouldn't be taking time off. Remember, I'm on an "unlimited" time off policy at work now. There's no saving vacation days for later. They're effectively use-it-or-lose-it every few months.

We've considered going somewhere else instead on this trip. It's a great idea, but the problem is it's hard to book at reasonable prices only a week out. We explored a few ideas last night and decided it's not worth it. We've got one more idea we'll look at today. But most likely we'll just do 60% of our trip starting next week and I'll feel frustrated about the parts that are broken.

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Remember how we seriously considered canceling our Phoenix trip less than a week before going? Well, we're at it again. 😣 This time it's our 10-day trip to New Orleans and Pensacola Beach on Florida's Gulf Coast, with a little bit of Mississippi thrown in the the middle. The trip starts Friday— maybe. 😰

This is a trip we've been planning since December so making changes now, even feeling like we have to consider making changes now, hurts. OTOH, calling an audible when conditions change is important to how I enjoy travel.

As with considering whether to cancel Phoenix, weather is a concern here. The forecast for late next week when we'd be at the beach in Florida shows high temperatures in the low 70s (around 22° C). That just doesn't seem warm enough for enjoying time on the beach. We looked at weather averages months ago and expected it to be 10 degrees warmer there in late April.

Weather's not the only concern here. There's also President's Club. It's the free trip I won as a form of employee recognition for outstanding performance. I won the award in February. It was only this week that the company finalized the destination: Grand Cayman in May. It'll be several days on the beach on a tropical island. With that on the books, Pensacola seemed like a pale cousin. It's less luxe and the weather's off. And even if it were comparable, two trips of lazing at a beach hotel, a few weeks apart, is repetitive.

Hawk and I discussed it yesterday and agreed to cancel the Pensacola part of next week's trip. The next challenge is, does the rest of the trip hold together? 😰 More to come.

Keep reading: Whole Vacation Now in Question!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
5 Days in the Desert travelog #7
Mojave Preserve, CA - Sat, 24 Dec 2022, 4:15pm

This afternoon we hiked the Rings Trail at Banshee Canyon in Mojave National Preserve. We did it as a two-fer after hiking at Amboy Crater earlier in the day.

As metal as this hike's name sounds (Banshee Canyon? Sign me up!) it was actually our second choice for an afternoon hike. First choice was a cave tour at Mitchell Caverns in Providence Mountains State Park. We weren't able to get a reservation in advance (they only take phone reservations one day per week) so we tried our luck just showing up on Christmas Eve. No luck; the tour was already full. But the ranger there suggested we visit Hole-in-Wall at Mojave National Preserve nearby.

The Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center at Mojave Preserve (Dec 2022)

The visitor center at Hole-in-the-Wall has an interesting Old West motif. Being nestled at the base of a colorful set of buttes really helps. The rangers there were fairly helpful and recommended the Rings Loop as a short-ish hike we could do the same afternoon. The trail departed from the far side of the parking lot and looped around those buttes... and up through a slot canyon between two of them.

Who let the cows out? Moo, moo, moo, moo-moo! (Dec 2022)

Compared to all those promises about buttes and slot canyons the trail started off mildly. We followed a sandy wash to an old cattle fence. I'm not sure if there used to be a gate of some kind here (see picture above) but it's been torn open. I'm like, 🎵 Who let the cows out/Who, who, who, moo-moo? 🎵

On the Hole-in-the-Wall loop at Mojave Preserve (Dec 2022)

Sure enough as we rounded the bend, sunlit views of the buttes overhead came into view. On some of these lichen-splashed rocks near the base there are Native rock carvings.

On the Hole-in-the-Wall loop at Mojave Preserve (Dec 2022)

While there are views up the cliffs on one side of the trail there are far-off views across the desert scrub on the other. As we got toward the eponymous Hole in the Wall we passed a small herd of horses grazing on wild grass. Beneath another butte, of course, because high desert terrain.

The actual Hole-in-the-Wall to Banshee Canyon! Mojave Preserve (Dec 2022)

Just past the horses we caught our first glimpse of the Hole in the Wall. BTW, lots of places in the American West are named "Hole in the Wall". I can think of three places right off the top of my head I've hiked with that name, and I'm sure there are dozens more. Basically anyplace there's, well... a hole in a wall... it's a good bet some 19th century settler was like, "OMG, Hole in the Wall!! Best name EVER!!!"

But this one has a second and third name to live up to. It's Banshee Canyon. That sounds like something worth screaming about, right? And it's the Rings Hike... as in, the trail is so steep there in places there are rings anchored into the rock to help you climb up.

To be continued....

Keep readingInto Banshee Canyons & Up the Rings!

canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
I checked out of my hotel in Orlando, Florida late this morning, getting out ahead of Hurricane Ian after my company canceled our big annual conference this week. As I described previously, I was unable to find a reasonably priced flight out of Orlando until Wednesday but I was able to find a good one out of Jacksonville Tuesday morning. So... after taking a Lyft to MCO airport I rented a car and drove to JAX airport.

As drives go it was a fairly easy one. 170 miles, pretty much all highway. The driving time was about 2:40. I added a lunch stop making it about 3:30 door-to-door.

Some of my colleagues who heard about the planes-trains-and-automobiles thing I was doing expressed sympathy for the craziness I had to endure. Enh. I know for some people such a drive is not easy, though for me it's close to trivial. And the planning and re-planning with reservations is kind of "All in a day's work". I've been a road warrior for a lot of years. This isn't my first rodeo. (How's that for mixed metaphor?)

Well, the hotel I'm at this evening is nowhere near as nice as the one I left. I'm at the airport Doubletree. It's pretty meh. Instead of a balcony overlooking a massive pool deck I have a small window— that doesn't open— overlooking a dull pool. The resort in Orlando was unusual for a business trip. This is par for the course.

Tomorrow morning my flight out of JAX leaves at 8:36am. If it's on time. I was watching local news over dinner downstairs in the hotel restaurant. Hurricane Ian is strengthening in the Gulf of Mexico. I'm definitely glad I'm further north now. Still, even if the center is a few hundred miles away tomorrow morning, the hurricane could produce enough winds and rains that flights are delayed or canceled.

Keep readingJacksonville was far enough north that I got out safely Tuesday morning.


canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Florida Trip Travelog #15
About to leave Orlando - Mon, 26 Sep 2022, 11am

It's ironic that I decided not to check my work email or messages until after breakfast this morning. It's ironic, because if I had I probably wouldn't have enjoyed such a delicious and leisurely repast. Instead I only saw the updates when I got back to my room around 8:15am and settled down to work for the day.

*sound of record scratch* 

CANCELED. EVERYTHING IS CANCELED.

That's basically it in 4 words.

The conference organizers at my company made the decision late last night to cancel the conference. We employees were directed to either cancel our trips if we hadn't left yet, or rebook to return home ASAP.

And to think I was enjoying the view out my balcony just moments earlier....

DANGER: HURRICANE!!1! (Sep 2022)

I checked with my airline right away. The earliest they could accommodate me was Wednesday. I changed my flight from Friday to Wednesday morning and hoped that would be soon enough. While the hurricane won't make landfall until Thursday, winds and rain in the area could be severe enough by then that flights will be canceled.

My department VP reached out to me on Slack and asked if I needed help. "Just rebooked to Wednesday," I told him. Long story short: "Get out sooner if you can," he responded. "Do whatever it takes."

"Do whatever it takes" is a risky phrase. I'm very resourceful about travel. I can find things that are fast... and also expensive. Flights from Orlando to San Francisco were nearly sold out today and tomorrow. I could have left in 3 hours on a first class ticket for $1500. That didn't seem like the right use of company money, though. It's not in my nature to spend like that when more reasonable alternatives exist.

The reasonable-r alternative in this case was to fly home Tuesday from another airport a few hours away. I found a flight out of Jacksonville for the same money I already paid. Yes, I'd have to pay to rent a car one-way, refuel it, and stay in a hotel overnight, but those added costs were still several hundred less than the premium for a flying out of Orlando.

After getting busy with various travel engines I have now changed all my travel plans. I have a flight out of JAX on a different airline, tomorrow. I've canceled my Wednesday flight out of MCO (that was already changed from Friday). I've rented a car to drive from MCO to JAX. I have a hotel next to JAX tonight. And my bags are packed and I'm about to go downstairs to check out of this hotel 4 days early.

Keep reading
170 Miles to Jacksonville.

Update: Some of my European colleagues chose to stay at the hotel and ride out the storm. I understand their thinking; it's a long trip for them both ways. Many of them weren't planning to leave until Saturday or Sunday anyway. Plus, those water slides look like so much fun. 😅 Orlando being 85 miles from the Gulf Coast it's not going to see storm surges... though it might experience localized flooding due to heavy rains and power outages due to power lines downed by trees blown over in the wind. I advised them of this and suggested they make sure they have stashes of food and bottled water in their rooms just in case.

canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Florida Trip Travelog #3
MDW Airport - Wed, 21 Sep 2022, 1am

Well, our trip to Florida to relax at the beach for 5 days is off to a disastrous start. We were supposed to connect in Chicago en route to Ft. Meyers, but a weather diversion sent us to Indianapolis instead of Chicago. Long story short— and I'm leaving out a lot of trial and tribulation here, longer version below— we got to Chicago 4 hours later than scheduled. We missed our connection. We're rebooked on a 7:50 departure to Tampa in the morning. We're staying overnight at the airport tonight because it's not worth going to a hotel.

Longer version, gory details:

1) Timeout! We had to disembark from the aircraft at IND because the captain and first officer "timed out". They'd been working longer than the FAA safety time limit and were not permitted to commence another takeoff. We exited the plane to wait in the terminal for another flight crew to be shifted over to our aircraft to fly us to Chicago. This wait added hours to our delay.

2) Rebooking, re-rebooking, all a mess. In the terminal at IND I got busy rebooking things— though ultimately the plans turned to shit anyway. First we rebooked to a two-hop flight on Wednesday that would get us in to Ft. Myers after 4pm. "Is there a nonstop flight to a nearby airport? I asked. We had to book a new rental car, anyway, and I was happy to drive 90 minutes to save 4 hours of connection. Next an agent booked me on a nonstop to Tampa... but in the time it took her to move my booking, someone else took the last seat, so there was no seat available for Hawk. The agent struggled with trying to get Hawk a spot for seriously at least 45 minutes, calling multiple supervisors to help. The flight reboarded while she was on hold with Chicago. She told me to board the plane and she'd keep waiting on hold for me. "How will I know if you're successful?" I asked. "Check your reservation when you land," she said. I was the last person through the door into the aircraft.

3) A second chance? It was just after 10pm as we approached MDW for landing. I still had a status screen open in one of my apps for our original connecting flight. It was delayed until 10:42. And it was departing from the gate right next to the one we'd land at. Maybe, just maaaybe, we could get back on that flight!! Of course, we'd need an agent to help undo the broken changes we'd made in Indy. I started kicking myself for all the scraping and clawing to rebook earlier. If I'd just waited maybe we would have been fine! Maybe.

4) So close and yet so far. On the ground at Indy we had an agonizing wait to disembark. First we had to wait for a tow the last 30' to the gate, then we had to wait for a jet bridge driver to connect us. Together these took 20 minutes. We'd already traveled 2,000 miles from home, and the last 30' took 20 minutes. I dashed off the aircraft as quickly as I could, made a beeline for the customer service desk— and my heart sank when I saw a line 20 people deep. The flight I wanted was parked right outside! I asked the gate agent, who wasn't busy, "Is there any way we could get on that aircraft?" Alas there wasn't. The cabin door had already been sealed, the flight manifests finalized. I joined the 20 person deep line— now more like 23 people deep— and waited to talk to an agent. I also called Southwest while waiting, since sometimes the phone agents can fix problems faster than the onsite agents. Especially when there's a long line.

5) Overnighting at the airport. The phone agent was able to get us fixed up for tomorrow. Hawk and I are both on the same flight now. It only took, like, 20 more minutes. We finished just as I was, like, #2 in line. We'll be going to Tampa, a 60-90 minute drive from Fort Meyers, as the only flight available to the latter arrives 4 hours later. For tonight we're just going to sleep at the airport. It's not worth getting a hotel because a) we'll have to pay last-minute rates, b) we'll only have time for maybe 4 hours of sleep if we're lucky, and c) we'll have to spend an hour or more getting back to the hotel and clearing security tomorrow. It's just not worth it. Of course, I might feel differently after a night of getting virtually no sleep sitting in an uncomfortable airport chair.

Update: BONUS suckage: Bag likely MIA. Yes, there's a bonus suck in addition to everything else that sucks. The bag we checked is likely to go to... well, nobody knows for sure. An agent cautioned that its routing has been deleted from the system. It's tagged with a physical tag that says RSW (Ft. Myers, Florida), though, so when someone deep in the bowels of the airport sees it tomorrow morning they're likely— in theory— to create a new system entry and route it to Ft. Myers. Or maybe it just sits there in a "Not My Problem" penalty box for 5 days. 🤷‍♂️ The agent suggested we call Ft. Myers when we land at Tampa.

Update 2: BONUS suck #2: Oh, I forgot to mention that we are paying for the privilege of sleeping on hard chairs in the airport tonight. We're paying for a hotel room in Ft. Myers that we can't get to. It was too late to cancel it. (Cancel window closed 48 hours ahead.)
canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Pacific Northwest September Travelog #7
Trout Lake, WA - Sat, 3 Sep 2022, 7pm

It took some doing, but we've now visited 5 waterfalls today. That's awesome because, well, first, visiting 5 waterfalls in any day is awesome; and second, our plan this morning was to visit 5 waterfalls, and now we've done that. Of course, the plan got changed several times between then and now. We've only visited two of the original 5 we planned. 😅

Waterfall #5 today is Langfield Falls, just off a quiet forest road somewhere near Mt. Adams.

Langfield Falls, Gifford Pinchot National Forest (Sep 2022)

The falls is named for a forest service superintendent decades ago who recognized that hiking trails and peaceful natural areas are critical for public appreciation of our public lands. Thus, there's a nice little trail from the road that leads about 1/4 mile downhill to the bottom of this gorge. And to keep it peaceful... well, they hid it in the middle of nowhere, and put up a sign that's really hard to see so most people miss it. We drove straight past it the first time. 🤣

Langfield Falls was #4 on our plan this morning. It slipped to #5 after we called multiple audibles this afternoon, including the unexpectedly nice falls on Lewis River.

The former #5 that fell off the bottom of our list today is Panther Falls. We know where to find it, we're just not going to get there in time. It's already 7pm and dusk is falling. It'll be almost full dark by the time we reach it. So... it goes back on the list for another day!

In beauty I walk. As long as there is light by which to see.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Pacific Northwest September Travelog #6
Cougar, WA - Sat, 3 Sep 2022, 5:30pm

I lamented in my previous blog that our epic waterfall day in Washington that got off to a strong start had started to fizzle, with waterfalls hard to find or dried up for the season. "Waterfall Lost & Found" I dubbed it, as we extemporized with new plans when one fell through.

The need to adjust on the fly continued into the next leg of our trip, when we couldn't find the trailhead for Big Creek Falls. It was probably in a construction zone we passed, behind some "Area Closed" signs. Update: It definitely was in that area, as some online hiking guides reflect that it's been left in a state of growing disrepair for several years.

But, like I said, we extemporized. We're good at finding a Plan B when Plan A doesn't work right. In this case Plan B was the better-than-expected Lower Falls on the Lewis River.

Lower Falls on the Lewis River, Gifford Pinchot NF (Sep 2022)

A short trail leads from the parking area down to viewing areas on the edge of a cliff. The Lewis River pours left, right, and center over a ledge in the riverbed. There are so many waterfalls here it's almost hard to count.

Lower Falls on the Lewis River, Gifford Pinchot NF (Sep 2022)

The trail along the cliff provides view from a number of different angles. To one side, the trail goes upstream, where there are several more falls in this area. They're not breathtaking like this one, though. To the other side, the trail goes downstream and provides access to the water level... sorta.

I say sorta because the paths down to the water are all treacherous. I used one that had a knotted rope anchored around a tree to help with a near-vertical descent (and later, climb) the bottom 5 meters. I was glad I had my hiking boots and climbing gloves for that. Other hikers looked at what I did and turned around. I think that was wise.

While the climb down to the river (and back up) was an adventure it wasn't a great photographic spot. Maybe if I'd waded upstream closer to the falls there would've been great photos... but while I had climbing gloves in my pack I did not bring wading gear on this trek.

Lower Falls on the Lewis River, Gifford Pinchot NF (Sep 2022)

I met back up with Hawk at the first viewpoint. She had gone exploring upstream while I tried the challenge of getting down to the water and back. Ultimately the best views were at the viewpoint, so I made more photos (like the one above) there.

We still had 2 more waterfalls left on our original itinerary. Lower Falls on the Lewis River was so unexpectedly nice, though, that we decided to visit at least one other falls in the area— knowing that it would jeopardize us being able to see the final falls on our list before dusk. Thumbing through one of our printed guides (our smartphone apps had all long since gone into "I know nothing, no-thing!" mode) we decided Upper Falls would be the next best falls and drove a few miles to the trailhead.

Taitnapum Falls on the Lewis River, Gifford Pinchot NF (Sep 2022)

When I mentioned used a printed guide I meant... yes, Dr. Smedley Q. Boredom's Very Dull Book of Waterfalls, aka That Dratted Book. 😨 Smedley once again gave us a bum steer with bad directions to Upper Falls. Instead his instructions took us to Taitnapum Falls, pictured in the photo above. Which... hey, Taitnapum Falls is pretty nice. I don't regret being led astray there. But given that he also provides directions— different directions— to Taitnapum Falls, I wonder where we would've gone if we'd followed those!

In beauty I walk... even if it's not where I planned to walk. That's the idea.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Pacific Northwest September Travelog #5
Northwoods, WA - Sat, 3 Sep 2022, 3:30pm

Our plan to visit 5 waterfalls today on a big driving loop around the Gifford Pinchot National Forest in Washington got off to a strong start with the stunning (if clumsily named) Falls Creek Trail Falls. Right after that, though, the plan started to unravel. After Falls Creek, and well outside of cell signal range, all of our apps decided, "What is this 'caching' you speak of? We will clear our screens now and reload from the web!" Finding our next destination, McClellan Falls, became difficult. And it wasn't listed in either or our printed guides.

Through use of crummy map kiosks posted at out-of-season snowmobile stops, and some dead reckoning, we did at least find McClellan Viewpoint.

Mount St. Helens seen from McClellan Viewpoint (Sep 2022)

McClellan Viewpoint offered a nice vista of Mount St. Helens in the distance. Cloud cover obscured much of it, though. I saw cloudiness in the weather forecast this morning, which is why I decided to do the waterfall loop today and save Mount St. Helens for tomorrow. Mountains are hard to appreciate without clear skies, while waterfalls often look amazing under gray skies.

So, the trail to McClellan Falls was supposed to start near this viewpoint. And for all I know, it does. But we couldn't find it. The online guide did warn that it's "hard" to find. I'd edit that to note that two experienced hikers couldn't find it and gave up.

We drove on from McClellan Viewpoint toward our next hike, Big Creek Falls, about 8 miles away. Halfway there, though, we saw a small sign indicating a turnoff for Curly Creek Falls. "Why's that not on our list?" we both asked. We decided since McClellan Falls was a no-show we had time to add Curly Creek into our itinerary, an impromptu swap.

We parked and found trail notes for Curly Creek in one of our guidebooks. The trail would actually be a two-fer: Curly Creek Falls and Miller Falls. We could see both with a hike of less than 1 mile round-trip.

Well, Curly Creek Falls was another a no-show. Except unlike McClellan Falls we found where it was supposed to be; it just wasn't there. It's dried up for the season.

We continued on toward Miller Falls. It's almost dried up for the season....

Miller Falls in Gifford Pinchot is only a trickle this time of year (Sep 2022)

This photo shows Miller Falls hanging on by a thread. Earlier in the season it's probably quite a sight, with a drop of 80' or so.

...Actually I don't have to say it's probably quite a sight. It's definitely a sight. We have pictures! Pictures from 5 years ago, that is.

While we hiked this trail Hawk and I debated whether we'd been here before. She said yes, as it looked familiar; I said no, as I didn't quite recognize it. She dug through the photos on her phone, searched by location (we had a wisp of cell signal here to support geolocation), and found photos she'd taken of both these falls 5 years ago. Photos taken in April that year, when the rivers were flush with spring snowmelt.

So, today's trip is a mix of hits and misses so far. I'm looking forward to the next falls on our list, Big Creek Falls. It should be flowing well even at this time of year. Stay tuned for more!


canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Colorado Travelog #23
Ridgway, CO - Tuesday, 5 Jul 2022, 11pm

So. Earlier today I told Hawk about my bucket list item from 30+ years ago to visit Maroon Lake in Colorado, suggesting we plan another trip like this one to see it... and she said, basically, "Why not now?" Since that moment we've been reworking our plans for this trip to get there.

I started changing hotel reservations plans from my mobile phone while parked on the side of a street. I made more reservations and changes from my computer at a restaurant. And I've spend another few hours online after getting back to our vacation condo this evening completing the plans. Here's how we'll spend the rest of the week:

  • Tomorrow (Wednesday) we'll hike in Telluride then drive north to Montrose to stay for the night. This is more-or-less our original plan for tomorrow, though while things were up in the air I canceled our hotel stay for tomorrow night and later rebooked it. It's a points stay, and the price went up from 23k points to 24k.

  • Thursday we'll visit Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. That's also within the parameters of our original plan (we allowed some flexibility on whether to hike there or Great Sand Dunes) though instead of driving to Alamosa, near Great Sand Dunes, we'll drive back to Glenwood Springs for the night.

  • Friday we'll hike Hanging Lake in Glenwood Canyon. Yes, I got a hiking reservation for it! Friday night we'll stay through in Glenwood Springs. Hawk got us 2 nights at the Marriott Residence Inn with a cert and points.

  • Saturday we'll visit Maroon Lake above the ski resort town of Aspen. Maroon Lake also has a permit-based system, and Saturday morning is what I could get a slot for. It's about an hour drive from Glenwood Springs to Aspen. We're not staying in Aspen because hotels are, like, $500/night on up there.

  • We'll do more than just visit Maroon Lake; we'll hike from Maroon Lake up to Crater Lake, a round trip of about 4 miles at high elevation. Saturday evening we'll drive back to Denver and crash at a hotel near the airport. Hawk booked that on points, too.

  • We'll fly home Sunday morning. That's different from our previous plan of flying home Saturday evening. Yay, no change fees. But boo, paying higher prices for last-minute fares. It cost about $180 more to book Sunday at the last moment, but it's worth it to make this all possible.


Also a tradeoff is that we will not visit Great Sand Dunes National Park or Garden of the Gods on this trip. But since we've visited both before— and have been to GotG, like, three times— that's okay. Swapping in a trip to Maroon Lake is worth it.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #21
Ouray, CO - Tuesday, 5 Jul 2022, 5:50pm

As we wrapped up our hike at Box Canyon Falls a few minutes ago I asked Hawk to remind me how we planned this trip. "A few years ago we were looking up waterfall hikes in Colorado, saw a cluster of them in Telluride, and decided to go," she said. Indeed, we built a trip around the kernel of spending a few days in Telluride. But visiting Telluride isn't the only thing in Colorado that's been on our list. There's a place that's been on my list for more than 30 years. 😨

I got on the Internet for the first time in 1990. Yeah, I know, a long time ago! One of the fun things to do back then was scour public ftp sites for cool digital pictures to display. There was no Google back then; Google wasn't founded until 1998. Even Yahoo didn't start until 1994. Early internauts exchanged lists of site addresses in text mediums like Usenet News groups and then visited them one-by-one, browsing through their file subdirectories, to see what they had.

This is where a lot of wise-asses would say, "I bet it was porn!" And they would be wrong. Porn online wasn't a big thing back then. (Why? Frankly, because it was several years before a scalable e-commerce mechanism was constructed to profit from it.)

Here was one of the first pictures I downloaded online in 1990:

lkmarron.gif, an image I first downloaded in 1990! (Jul 2022)

I was entranced by the beautiful mountain scenery. I made it my desktop background image for a while. At the time I'd only ever been on the east coast of the US (and an evening in Canada) so I'd never seen a sight like that in person. I knew I wanted to visit such places some day. But where was it?

The photo was identifiable only by its filename, lkmarron.gif. "Lake Marron", I thought. I searched various times over the years for Lake Marron but could never find it.

It turns out the file was misnamed. The scene pictured in it is Maroon Lake. Its name in 8.3 format should've been maroonlk.gif or lkmaroon.gif, not lkmarron.gif. That could've saved me years of wondering. But eventually search engines got good enough to show near matches, and I found the place I was looking for. Then I forgot about it.

I forgot about it until today, that is. And that's why I prompted Hawk to recall how we planned this trip. "Lake Maroon, which I've wanted to see for more than 30 years, is near Aspen," I explained. "What do you think about planning a trip to Aspen next year, or maybe later this year."

"Why don't we see if we can go this week?" Hawk responded.

[sound of needle scratch]

As I was literally driving on a city street at that moment I pulled over to a parking space, dug my computer out of a bag in the back seat (I'm glad I brought it with me today!), and started checking if we can still change our plans. We can!

Get ready, we're about to call a massive audible.

Update: It took a few hours of wrangling to line up all the reservations, but we did it. We're now rebooked to visit Maroon Lake on Saturday!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Colorado Travelog #10
Colorado National Monument, CO - Sunday, 3 Jul 2022, 3:30pm

We're visiting Colorado National Monument this afternoon. It's a relatively compact park, and it's possible to see most of the highlights from the main road that runs about 25 miles through the park. We're not ones to simply car-tour a park, though. We've hopped out to hike several times!

Even the road is beautiful at Colorado National Monument (Jul 2022)

That said, just car touring is nice... because even the road is amazing. The photo above shows a bird's eye view of the road climbing up through a canyon at the north entrance. And this was our fourth hop-out stop to walk a bit and take pictures.

Next we stopped at the Visitors Center. Even though we'd chosen and mapped out a few easy-to-moderate trails to hike (two or three at 1/2 mile to 1 mile each, and one at about 2 miles) in advance we always like stopping by the Visitors Center to check conditions, grab a printed map and any printed trail descriptions they have, and... shop. We call it "liberating birds". If they have any hawk toys we don't already own a copy of (or have already chosen not to buy) we buy one. This time, as is usually the case, there were no compelling stuffed hawks we don't already own. But there was a sheep. A bighorn ram. And not a stuffed sheep— actually, there were a bunch of stuffed sheep, but of two models we already own examples of— but a Lego sheep.

We decided, "Enh, we don't need a Lego bighorn ram."

I think we're going to regret that when we never see it again.

Update: We did regret it, starting only a few hours later. 😞

Update 2: But we got a second chance 4 days later when we saw the ram at another park— and a hawk, too! 😄🐏🦅

Anyway, back to hiking....

View from Book Cliff at Colorado National Monument (Jul 2022)

There's plenty for low-effort tourists to see here. But with even a little effort put into hiking there's so much more.

Monument Valley at Colorado National Monument (Jul 2022)

There were so many fun places to hop out and hike a short distance to see amazing views. We ended up going off our original plan with more stops and more hikes than anticipated. But hey, no problem; we can call an audible on this one easily. We'll put off the longer, moderately strenuous hike until tomorrow morning. We planned a bit of flexibility in our schedule exactly for situations such as this.

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