canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Ohio Waterfalls Travelog #18
Rockbridge, OH · Sun, 19 Apr 2026. 3pm

After hiking Ash Cave this morning— for the second time in two days!— we drove north through Hocking Hills State Park to Rock Bridge State Natural Preserve. But first, we stopped for lunch in West Logan for lunch. Yes, we drove right past the pencil sharpener museum along SR 664. We even stopped next to it to grab a fresh map from the visitors center.

I lingered over lunch. What do I want to do today? I fretted. Which was really, what do I have energy for today. I was feeling out of sorts, partly because of medication, but partly also because of lack of motivation today. Though the latter may be driven by the former. 🤷‍♂️ Soon enough I decided, "Fuck it, I'm going hiking," and we drove to Rock Bridge.

Rock Bridge State Natural Preserve, Ohio (Apr 2026)

The main point of interest on this hike is, well, the thing the park is named for, a natural rock bridge. It's about 10' wide and 60' long.

Geologically, this rock is the familiar Black Hand Sandstone that forms the bedrock layer all around this region. This bridge started out as a cave, similar to Ash Cave or Whispering Cave. A lower sub-layer of the sandstone eroded away faster than the sturdier layer above it, creating an alcove. Eventually this cave got fairly deep... and then fissures in the upper layer caused part of the "roof" to crumble and fall down. The part that didn't crumble is now the bridge.

Rock Bridge State Natural Preserve, Ohio (Apr 2026)

The trail leads around underneath the near side of the bridge. It's nice in here, being down in this grotto. Though the combination of the dripping water coming over the lip of the cave, plus the now overcast sky above, gives everything a dour mood.

We stayed here for a while, enjoying the fact that we had the place to ourselves. That's a little surprising since it's still a weekend, though I figure what's happening is this little park is waaay less popular with visitors than the well known Hocking Hills nearby. We saw maybe 8 people in 2-3 small groups on the way in and maybe 5 more people on the way out.

As we've walked back to the car now we've decided to call it a day already. We'll blame it on the weather. The sunny sky we enjoyed this morning has turned overcast. And a strong breeze has picked up. Plus, it's chilly today compared to the beautiful weather two days ago. There were points on this hike where I worried the three light layers I'd worn wouldn't be enough. Tomorrow's going to be even colder... but at least it'll be sunny.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Ohio Waterfalls Travelog #6
Hocking Hills State Park · Fri, 17 Apr 2026. 12:15pm

After five blogs so far about this trip you might be wondering, "You said this was all about waterfalls. When are you actually going to get to one?" Well, it's been five blogs getting to this point because, as I often point out about traveling, getting there is half the trip. And now that we're here, five blogs later, so are the waterfalls. Start with this one:

Upper Falls in the gorge at Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio (Apr 2026)

This is Upper Falls at Hocking Hills State Park. It's in a gorge that is not well named on maps so I'm just going to call it Old Man's Gorge because all the signs talk about Old Man's Cave. Legends have it that an old man used to live in this area (actually there are two groups of legends, which describe two different old men but wind up converging on details post mortem) and buried treasure in a cave in this gorge. Hence Old Man's Cave. And thus Old Man's Gorge. IDK.

The gorge is pretty easy to get down into. I mean, it's a state park. There's a trail. 🤣 The bridge you see above the falls crosses over the creek near the rim of the gorge. Stairs of stone and wood lead down to the creek level. From here a trail runs a few miles through the gorge.

Walking the gorge at Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio (Apr 2026)

It's a pleasant walk along the trail at the bottom of the creek. This is one of the few pictures I got without anybody standing in front of me. While the park isn't crowded today it's also not empty. I'm glad we're here on a weekday. Tomorrow (Saturday) it will probably be thronged. Yay, retirement!

The walls of the gorge are sandstone. This particular layer is called Black Hand sandstone, named for a native people who lived here. The force of the water in the creek carved down vertically through the soft stone. The ridges and scallops you see in the stone are places where thin veins of harder minerals resisted the erosive action of water.

BTW, while this picture makes the gorge look like it's only 30' deep, it's actually more than twice that. The gorge walls here are stepped. There's at least one more riser of walls above them.

Unnamed falls in the gorge at Hocking Hills State Park, Ohio (Apr 2026)

Further on down the gorge we noticed this small falls cascading down the walls along the route of a side creek. I've double checked the maps and can't find a name for it. Thus I'm going to go with Unnamed Falls.

The bridge you can see above the falls is a shortcut down from the visitors center. Apparently it's a shortcut for people who don't want to see Upper Falls (the first photo, above) which IMHO is the best part of this hike so far. Though it's premature of me to say that because there's still more to come.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
North Coast Roadtrip travelog #4
Sue-meg State Park · Sat, 26 Jul 2025, 12:30pm

Saturday morning we drove from Garberville up past Eureka and Arcata on the north coast to Agate Beach. Agate Beach is a perennial favorite of Hawk's because it's a great place to troll for rocks, particularly agates. Visiting this beach to go rock-hounding is one of the centerpieces of this weekend trip. And it's a thing we've been meaning to do for... over a year now. It took us this long to get around to it. (We finally made concrete plans when I threw a fit earlier in the week about too many weekends lolling around at home.)

Agate Beach at Sue-meg State Park (Jul 2025)

A visit to Agate Beach starts with a walk down from the cliffs. Fortunately there's a good trail here, with switchbacks at the top and stairs at the bottom. This is part of a state park, the recently renamed Sue-meg State Park. It was called Patrick's Point when we visited here a few times in the past. California State Parks renamed it in 2021 to the traditional name used by the Hurok people.

Agate Beach at Sue-meg State Park (Jul 2025)

Agate Beach has always seemed like a quiet, remote area. Not so much today, though. Today the day-use parking lot was nearly full, and not just with people who came to visit the beach in general but people who came specifically for rock-hounding.

Agate Beach at Sue-meg State Park (Jul 2025)

It was obvious most people were here for rock-hounding because they were all carrying specially designed shovels for picking rocks on the beach. It's like someone posted on Facebook, "OMG rockhounding at agate beach is the bestest thing EVAR!" and helpfully included a link to their shovel-selling page on Etsy. Because everyone, like dozens of people, had basically the same shovel. 🤣

Well, Hawk was doing it old-school, picking rocks by hand. We started near the bottom of the trail, where we'd always found so many things on past visits, but gradually migrated further out on the beach as the center area was getting pretty well picked-over by all the other rock-hounds.

Agate Beach at Sue-meg State Park (Jul 2025)

On previous trips Hawk came home with quite a haul from Agate Beach. Today she was more selective a took only a handful of rocks. Partly that's because she's become more knowledgeable of the kind of rocks on the beach. Most of the stones here are basalt. Most of the white ones, which people commonly mistake for agate, are quartz. In fact many people proudly showed Hawk zip-lock bags full of stones they'd picked up with their shovels— oddly, identically sized zip-lock bags they picked up with their identically designed shovels— only for Hawk to tell them that all but 1 or 2 of the pieces in their bags were quartz.

I found a lot of pretty stones in olive green and orange-red colors, many with banded shades. Hawk identified these as jasper. She already has a lot of jasper, so we left those stones for others to find.

On previous trips I found a lot of sand dollars out here. There were none today. I don't know if that's a seasonality thing or if they had already been scooped up by all the other beachcombers.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #14
Christmas Valley, OR - Thu, 3 Jul 2025, 4pm

This afternoon we're hiking the Crack in the Ground in the dry, volcanic bluffs of eastern Oregon. This hike has been a long time coming... and I say that not just because it's taken me over two weeks to move this blog from my backlog but also because this is a hike that landed on my hiking backlog a few years ago.

"Check out this amazing volcanic crack in the ground!" and Oregonian friend texted us a few years ago.

"Looks awesome, are you planning a trip?" we asked.

And from there the conversation fizzled out. 🙁 But while our friend may have forgotten about this fascinating geologic feature, I did not. So when we planned this July 4th week trip to Oregon this hike was on my short list of things I wanted to do.



On this hike I recorded both photos and video. As I prepared this blog I thought about which to include— or both. Ultimately I decided in favor of video as it's way better at conveying the immersive experience of walking through this narrow canyon.

In beauty I walk.

And this is only part 1 of, like, four, so stay tuned for more!


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Oregon Cascades Travelog #15
Bend, OR - Thu, 3 Jul 2025, 8:30pm

We're back from another fun day of vacation in the Oregon Cascades. Though today we weren't really in the Oregon Cascades.... Instead we headed east from Bend into the high desert volcanic scrub land. Along the way we explored mountains of glass, hiked a volcanic fissure in the ground... oh, and saw about 100 hawks.


 
We saw the first few dozen hawks as we were driving east on US 20 out of Bend toward Glass Butte. The hawks were perched on power line poles along the side of the highway. At first we didn't see any raptors. Then we saw one or two. "Huh, I'm surprised there's food out here for them," I thought to myself. The we started seeing them every half mile. There must be plenty of food for them! I've only seen this density of birds of prey in the wild twice before.

We arrived in the area of the Glass Buttes and turned off the highway. From there we'd see only dirt and gravel roads for the next few hours. Yay, choosing to drive our own car (4x4 SUV) instead of flying and renting a car! We drove around to sites specifically where Hawk could rock-hound for different varieties of obsidian. She filled a canvas tote bag.

After rock-hounding and eating a trail lunch in the car we drove back out to the highway and backtracked a bit to the west before leaving the highway again to traverse gravel and dirt roads for most of the next 50 miles to get to Crack-in-the-Ground, an interesting volcanic fissure. From there we parked the car at the trail head, strapped on our packs, and hiked over 2 miles, much of it in narrow a chasm up to 70 feet deep. As with yesterday's summary I'm skipping over sharing photos (and video!) for now to keep from falling too far behind in writing about this trip.

Oh, and we at least a dozen more hawks on the drive to Crack-in-the-Ground. Plus another dozen more as we drove to the remote little town of Christmas Valley afterwards for a light dinner. Yes, it was already after 6pm! Then there were lots more hawks as we drove west toward Fort Rock and Hole in the Ground.

Yes, there's a Hole in the Ground in addition to Crack-in-the-Ground. We didn't get to see the hole, though, because it was raining by the time we got there. It was raining— pouring, really, with occasional lightning in the sky— as we passed by Fort Rock, as well. These both would've been fun to see. Alas, maybe on a return trip to Bend a few years from now!

Update, 11pm: the rain and lightning hit us in Bend later in the evening, spoiling yet another part of our plans for the day. Having gotten back to our hotel around 8:30pm we looked forward to soaking in the hot tub before it closes at 10. Well, at 9:15 or so when we were ready to go, WHOOSH! rain started to fall. We thought maybe we'd wait it out but then CRACK! lightning. And the rain lasted for 2 hours. It's a bummer we didn't get to use the hot tub. My sore muscles would've appreciated it.

canyonwalker: The colosseum in Rome, Italy (italy)
Italy Travelog #19
Santadi, Sardinia - Wednesday, 28 May 2025, 1pm

Our organized activity at Club today was a cave tour at the Is Zuddas Grotto in Sardinia. We could have opted for ruins and wine touring, mountain biking, or horseback riding instead but chose this because it was the most up our alley. As a serendipity we learned a lot about Sardinian history from our tour guide on the van ride over here, even though at the cave she handed us over to a cave specialist.

Entering the Is Zuddas cave in Sardinia (May 2025)

As we started into the cave I wondered if I'd chosen the wrong activity. I mean, limestone caves are basically all the same. And we've seen a lot of them. Maybe we should have done the ruins and wine tasting tour instead... though Hawk doesn't/can't drink, so that's why.

Medusa formation in the Is Zuddas cave in Sardinia (May 2025)

One interesting formation we saw is "Medusa". ...Okay, maybe that's more interesting linguistically than geologically because "medusa" is the name in Romance languages for jellyfish. It's like only we stupid anglophones have a different name for jellyfish that doesn't evoke the Greek myth of Medusa. And this formation does look more like a jellyfish than a demonic woman with snakes on her head.

This block of stalactites fell in the Is Zuddas cave in Sardinia (May 2025)

Anyone who's visited a bunch of limestone caverns probably looks at the photo above and puzzles for a moment, "Wait, what's going on here?" That's because stalactites and stalagmites are virtually always oriented vertically, their shapes driven by gravity. Well, what happened here is that a block of stalactites fell from the ceiling. They're at an angle because that's how the block landed when it fell to the floor of the cave. And note it fell, like, millions of years ago, because of the size of stalagmites growing atop it.

Helictites are eccentric stalactites - Is Zuddas cave in Sardinia (May 2025)

Above I noted that stalactites and stalagmites virtually always form vertically. There's a category of stalactites that don't. They're called helictites, and they can grow in crazy shapes, thin tendrils extending sideways, curving around, forming curls and "S" bends, and even forking.

"What does Science know about why helictites form in such eccentric shapes?" I politely asked the guide, who'd been getting a bit frustrated about the parallel lesson in limestone formations I'd been whispering to a colleague who'd never been in a cave before.

Strangely I'd never though to ask this before. I mean, other cave guides have pointed out helictites, so I've known what they are, by definition, but not the science behind them. To his great credit, this guide had an education answer.

First, there are multiple theories, the guide explained. That's classic science right there. Science includes uncertainty, and true scientists acknowledge when/where it exists— an unfortunate fact that is frequently exploited by demagogues nowadays to dismiss science as wild theories that are merely personal opinion, all equally valid.

The leading theory, which our guide holds, is that helictites develop in eccentric formations because their rate of water flow is so slow that water evaporates quickly. Remember, all these cave formations are driven by the action of water responding to gravity. Rain water seeping through small cracks in the rocks above dissolves limestone. It flows downward along existing formations and forms droplets at the bottom. Rock re-crystalizes from these droplets. But with helictites it's thought that the water flow is so minimal that the water doesn't even form a droplet; it evaporates before it gets to that stage. Thus limestone deposits may form on the side of an existing limestone structure, or— via capillary action— at its upper tip.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Non-Vegas Vegas Weekend Travelog #3
Lake Mead National Recreation Area - Sat, 15 Feb 2025, 12:15pm

What's there to do in Las Vegas if you don't like gambling, shows, or fancy restaurants? There's hiking! And while it's not in Las Vegas it's also not far out of it.

Saturday morning we drove out to the Lake Mead National Recreation Area to the trailhead for Owl Canyon. Although we got a later start on the day than I wanted to I knew there was plenty of time left in the day— especially if this hike was all we wanted to do. And even at the trailhead I could tell we were in for an enjoyable time.

Oh, I'm so scared! Owl Canyon Trail, Lake Mead National Recreation Area (Feb 2025)

I mean, anytime a sign warns the trail is tough... that's generally code for, "Really fun for even moderately experienced hkers." It's scare-words for "Weak-sauce city folk STAY OUT." 🤣

The Owl Canyon trail starts by descending from a high bluff (Feb 2025)

The trail starts with a steep descent down from the the top of the bluff where the parking area and some picnic tables are. Ugh, that's going to be not-fun as the last part of the trail when we're coming back tired. At least it's not a huge climb out. I don't think it's more than about 100' ascent back up.

Bluff above Las Vegas arm of Lake Mead NRA (Feb 2025)

Across the wash at the bottom of the canyon the trail climbs over another bluff. This one's not so vertical as the one the trail starts from. It's prettier, though, with orange-red rocks and views across to the Las Vegas Wash.

Hawk and I took a detour to explore the top of the bluff instead of following the trail that quickly descended from a saddle point. Curiously there are lots of seashells up here.

How did all the shells get here? Our first thought was that birds dropped them after fishing the waters of the lake. But quickly we saw that there are thousands of shells up here. That's too many for birds dropping them after eating. This spot must've been underwater at some point in the past. ...But the water level in Lake Mead, which you can see in the pic above, looks to be at least 100' below us. How long ago would it have been high enough to cover this ground? It can't have been too many years ago as otherwise there wouldn't be so many shells in such good condition due to weathering. Also, the Hoover Dam that created Lake Mead only finished construction in 1935.

Walking a bluff at Lake Mead NRA (Feb 2025)

We walked along the bluff top, exploring the views from different angles. The views up here were just so beautiful we kept going instead of doubling back, hoping there might be an exit down the far side. Plus, it was special being up here because while we saw occasional small groups of hikers on the trail below, nobody else thought to explore up here atop this butte. Hooray, solitude!

Update: I learned in visiting the Hoover Dam the following day that the last time the lake level rose to a high of 1,225' elevation above sea level in 1983. The bluff we were standing on was at about 1,200' elevation. So possibly the seashells we were seeing atop this bluff have sat there undisturbed for 40 years. Now that is some solitude!

On a bluff near the mouth of Owl Canyon, Lake Mead NRA (Feb 2025)

In this panoramic photo (above) you can see the trail winding around beneath the bluffs. In the distance is the actual Owl Canyon. We'll hike a loop that has us going up another canyon and then coming down Owl Canyon, exiting it in this area. Then we'll hike over the saddle point halfway up this bluff and climb the first bluff back up to the trailhead. But that could be hours from now, and now is now....

Gypsum rocks, Lake Mead NRA (Feb 2025)

On the far side of the bluff we found this odd mineral deposit. It looks like snow! It's actually gypsum. We scrambled over a bunch of large gypsum boulders to climb down the bluff. We had to be careful on them as gypsum is a soft mineral. If we stepped on a thin deposit, it could crumble under our feet and send us tumbling.

We got down the rough backside of the bluff okay. Then we bushwhacked through a bunch of dead bushes in the wash where the lake level had been higher recently, and climbed back up the slope on the far side to rejoin the trail.

To be continued!

Update: There's a lot more ahead! Continue for now with part 2.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Panama Travelog #21
El Valle, Panama - Thu, 26 Dec 2024. 1pm.

The day after Christmas in Valle de Antón, Panama was shaping up to be a good day. My legs were still achy from the hike to the top of La Dormida and back two days earlier, but I was starting to push them. This hike at Las Mozas stream canyon was about the right amount of pushing. Billed as a nature trail it was a bit harder than I expected. In the US the designation "nature trail" almost always means it's fairly level and well graded, suitable for people who don't walk very well. Here in Panama nature trail means literally what it says: a trail that's in nature. And what counts as a "trail" is, apparently debatable.

Las Mozas stream canyon, Valle de Antn, Panama (Dec 2024)

The trail starts off paved the first 20 meters or so from the parking lot, crossing a foot bridge over small side stream. But then the trail becomes just a route over the natural rock on the side of the stream. The rock here is volcanic, so that means it's very uneven. And it's wet. Normally I'm a strong hiker and this wouldn't bother me but today, with my wobbly ankles, I've had to step carefully.

Las Mozas stream canyon, Valle de Antn, Panama (Dec 2024)

There was even a spot where I decided not to go further. The rock ledge in front of me was narrow and tilted sharply to the side. Add in the wetness, and I saw myself likely taking a spill. Hawk went ahead and got past the obstacles with no problems, though she moved slowly through some of the dodgy areas. I made the photo above with a telephoto lens, so she's already past the worst part and is on what was maybe the third-worst part. 😅

After Hawk disappeared around the bend a small family came up out of the canyon. They were moving very gingerly, too, over the uneven and slippery rocks. They were native English speakers so I asked them, "Does the route get worse than this ahead?" "No, though it also doesn't get much better," they answered. "But your wife says you should go anyway." 😂

I secured my camera bag over my shoulder (didn't want it swinging around), checked my hiking pole, and steeled myself to do it.

Waterfalls in Las Mozas, Valle de Antn, Panama (Dec 2024)

I'm glad I joined Hawk and the falls; they were worth hiking through the pain.

BTW, an interest part of the nature of this nature trail is that this stream canyon is a volcanic fissure. It's a fault that opened up in the mountains surrounding the Antón Valley. Recall the whole valley is actually a caldera, a bowl. Most volcanic calderas don't have natural drainage. Instead water pool into a lake, like at Crater Lake in Oregon, US. But here the water that flows down into the valley from various streams flow out through this canyon.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Panama Travelog #25
La Chorrera, Panama - Fri, 27 Dec 2024. 12pm.

Here's another blog from my Panama trip that I pushed the side so that my blogging wouldn't get too badly backlogged. Well, once I pushed it to the side it, along with several others, got stuck there for a few weeks. I'm going to try unwinding at least a few of them now.

After spending 4 days in El Valle de Antón we're driving back to Panama City. We'll spend 3 days there before flying home. The drive to Panama City would be about 130km if we were driving the shortest route, but we're taking slight side trips to visit two waterfalls along the way. The first of these is in La Chorrera... which is Spanish for The Waterfall. ...And that's the name of the town, BTW. The waterfall itself is named El Chorro, which is Spanish for The Stream. 🤷

El Chorro de la Chorrera, Panama (Dec 2024)

Getting to the falls was quite the little adventure. And by "adventure" I mean it really tried my patience. ...No, it wasn't a tough hike. The view from the edge of the falls above was a stroll of 25 meters from where we parked the car. It was getting through La Chorrera that was crazy-making. Driving highways in Panama is relatively easy— aside from the poor signage for turns/exits— but driving in city-center traffic is like something out of a Mad Max movie. Anyway, I've written about that elsehwere, so I'll get back to the waterfalls here.

El Chorro de la Chorrera, Panama (Dec 2024)

From the top of the falls we found an overgrown path leading down to the bottom. We picked our way over the slippery rocks near the falls for a better view.

You can see the interesting hexagonal pattern in the rocks we're standing on/next to at the near left. It's columnar basalt. Here's a wider angle that shows more of the rocks:

El Chorro de la Chorrera, Panama (Dec 2024)

There were a few other cars of people at the top of the trail as we visited. Curiously nobody else came down to the bottom of the falls like we did, so we had the place to ourselves for the 15 minutes we spent down here.

canyonwalker: wiseguy (Default)
New Zealand Travelog #33
Waiotapu, NZ - Thu, 18 Apr 2024, 11am

This week we're traveling on the North Island of New Zealand. The framework of this leg of the trip is flying into Wellington in the south (we did that this past Monday), driving up to Auckland in the north, and depart for home from Auckland this coming Monday. We filled in plans for activities throughout the week by looking at things to do along the way from one city to the other.

One of the types of things that jumped out at us was geothermal spots,. There are a bunch of them in the region around Rotorua. We visited Te Puia near Rotorua yesterday (detailed blog still pending). Today we've backtracked a bit to the south to see Waiotapu.


Link: watch video on YouTube

One of the standout sights to see in Waiotapu, indeed one of the reasons we picked it, is the daily eruption of Lady Knox Geyser. The video above shows the daily show.

As you might gather from the commentary in the crawler I added, we were not that impressed. Yes, it's a geyser. But the eruption is a put-on show. It's tourist-trappy. And we're kind of allergic to tourist traps. ...Actually, allergic isn't so much the right description as "sneeringly disdainful". You can tell that from the crawler commentary, too. 🤣

Fortunately the rest of Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland is a legit tourist attraction and not a tourist trap. I'll share more video later.


canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
West Virginia Travelog #3
New River Gorge National Park - Sat, 16 Sep 2023. 3:30pm

Well, we did it. We got to the the US's newest national park only... *checks watch*... 33 months after it was designated. One of our bucket lists is to visit every one of the (now) 63 national parks. As of today at New River Gorge National Park in West Virginia we are at 51 [loud tock sound] 52.

We didn't come here just to tick the box (or tock the clock), of course. We came here to enjoy doing the things we enjoy doing at parks. In beauty we walk!

Sandstone Falls, New River Gorge National Park (Sep 2023)

Our first visit in the park this afternoon was to Sandstone Falls. It's at the south end of the sprawling park, near the surprisingly well kept little town of Hinton. This area is up-river from the rest of the park. Here the New River hasn't carved as deep a gorge through the Allegheny Mountains. "New River" is a horrible misnomer, BTW. This river is literally older than the mountains around it... and these mountains are old!

Sandstone Falls, New River Gorge National Park (Sep 2023)

The trail here is easy; there's a boardwalk guiding visitors out partway across the river. But, as is often the case, we found the best views by stepping off the boardwalk and picking our way across the rocks.

In beauty we walk.

UPDATEMore ahead in part 2!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Whew, it's now over a week since our epic hiking day on Monday, July 3. We ultimately visited 7 different waterfalls along the North Umpqua River watershed. My plan had been for 8— well, my plan had been for 6, then we added two easy ones mid-afternoon knowing that either or both of the last two longer ones might fall off the plan as we get near the end of our energy (and time, too).

Hike number 6 was Clearwater Falls. Along with Whitehorse Falls it's one of the short ones we added late in the day. From the quiet parking lot it was a level walk of less than 100 meters to a wooden viewing platform with benches.

Clearwater Falls, Umpqua National Forest (Jul 2023)

The Clearwater River gets its name from the exceptional clarity of its water. It bubbles up from springs about a mile upstream from this falls. The water in those springs flows through multiple layers of dried lava (laid down like layers on a layer cake by successive eruptions further up the mountain) that filter it out quiet well. They also keep it at a consistent flow across the year despite the otherwise heavy spring melt cycle followed by summer and fall drought.

Maybe it's the gentle, consistent flow of the water, but this area is popular with mosquitos. They hadn't been a factor on other trails today, but here I was slapping them two and even three at a time. Maybe it's the elevation over 4,000' where they've just hatched for the summer. At least these young'uns are easy to swat. They're like, "Hey, mom, look, I can fly! Buzz, buzz!" Then *splat* with my hand.

Clearwater Falls, Umpqua National Forest (Jul 2023)

While Hawk waited down at the viewing platform, not able to walk further than that (she was still recovering from a muscle tear 2 weeks earlier), I scrambled up a short but steep path along the side of the falls, swatting mosquitoes the whole time. There were nice views from right next to the falls, shown above. I also picked my way out atop the falls and got Hawk's attention to take a picture. I'll have to get a copy of that one from her.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Our waterfalls-hiking agenda on Monday in the Oregon Cascades was a bit of a jumble. I had several browser tables open on my computer to various falls I wanted to hike, and a few sections bookmarked the old-fashioned way (i.e., with a scrap of paper) in Smedley's waterfall book. As we went through the day, having hiked 3 trails already, we were discussing tradeoffs on which ones to add to the list or skip.

"Watson Falls, hmm, I don't know," I said. Then I checked the notes. "272 feet tall, third highest falls in Oregon." Fuck no, we're not skipping that!

The trek to the base of Watson Falls is short but steep. Short, as in less than half a mile. Steep, as in it rises 300 feet in that short distance. But then views like this open up...

Watson Falls, Oregon (Jul 2023)

...and you forget about your aching legs and just focus on finding stable footing while not taking your eyes off the falls.

The trail proper turns away just behind where I'm standing. Yes, everyone in the frame, including yours truly taking the picture, is off trail. But how could we not?

Watson Falls, Oregon (Jul 2023)

A little ways up the social trail is a flat-ish rock to sit on. We sat down for a bit and enjoyed the lush undergrowth and gentle cascade in the foreground with the horsetail of Watson Falls swishing in the background. ...Yes, it really was swishing. Breeze in the canyon blew the water back and forth, left and right.

Watson Falls, Oregon (Jul 2023)

After a bit we picked our way back to the official trail. I mentioned it bent away at that point.... It climbs higher through a pair of switchbacks to a vantage point that's about one-third up the height of the falls. Oddly this vista was very uncrowded compared to the bottom of the falls. It's like everybody had energy to climb the slippery rocks at the bottom and make yoga poses for their Instagram accounts, but nobody had energy or was curious where the rest of the trail went.

BTW, the rock on the cliff here is also basalt, similar to the rock face at Toketee Falls. Here the columnar structure isn't so pronounced. A kiosk at the trailhead explains that this volcanic basalt filled the canyon sometime between 25,000 - 100,000 years ago when a volcano near the top of the pass erupted.

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Grand Cayman Travelog #23
Barefoot Beach - Fri, 19 May 2023, 1pm

As one of the stops on our driving tour around Grand Cayman's remote East End we stopped near Barefoot Beach to see a spot marked as thermal vents. Ultimately we didn't find the thermal vents— they're offshore in the water and are more of a thing for divers or maybe snorkelers— but we did enjoy our exploration near the inaptly named Barefoot Beach.

Why is the name inapt? Well, here's one of the trails to get to it:

Beach access is often dicey on Grand Cayman's rustic East End (May 2023)

Beach access via narrow trail is common on Grand Cayman. The laws are that beaches have to be public, and land owners often provide only the minimum of accessibility through their property. This trail is tougher than most as it's very rocky. The trail passes over very sharp eroded limestone (similar to Hell). In addition there is smashed glass from people leaving trash. This is definitely not a trail you want to walk barefoot!

"Brain" coral found on Grand Cayman's East End (May 2023)

Embedded in the eroded limestone are corals. There are also loose corals washed up on the dune at the edge of the beach. We found several "brain" corals like the one in the photo above.

Conch shell found on Grand Cayman's East End (May 2023)

We also found a few conch shells. At any beach I've been to before a shell like the one in the photo above would've been an amazing find. Here it's kind of "meh"... because while it's a shell in overall good condition, there's not a living conch still inside it.

Sharp rocks above soft sand on Grand Cayman's East End (May 2023)

Ultimately we made it down to the beach. Beneath one final layer of sharp rocks is soft, soft sand. Perhaps this is what they meant by barefoot beach. It's pleasant out here... though you absolutely have to put good shoes back on to leave!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Grand Cayman Travelog #16
Hell - Thu, 18 May 2023, 12:30pm

This morning we picked up a rental car so we could do some self-guided touring today and tomorrow. But where would we go? One of the tour coordinators we'd chatted amiably with the past few days, who was still at the hotel because now he's working with another company that's running a president's club (there are signs), offered a suggestion when he saw us walking through the lobby to our car.

"Make sure you go to Hell," he suggested.

"Yeah, that's our plan," I answered. "We're going to Hell now. Then we're going to lunch."

Hell, Cayman Islands is an official place complete with a Hell post office (May 2023)

Hell is a spot a few miles north of our hotel, on the northwest end of the island. It's an officially named place in the Cayman Islands. How official? There a Hell, CI post office here.

But what draws people here isn't just the post office, with its ability to send postcards officially date-stamped "HELL". That is only part of the allure. 😅 It's the jagged rocks in this area that gave it name that people come to see. Thus we pulled our car into the small parking lot aside a few families and minibuses to see it ourselves.

You may escape Hell, but not with a Hell rock! (May 2023)

Don't remove Hell rocks! ...What are they going to do, though? Send you to hell? You're already there. 😂

The limestone rocks of Hell, Cayman Islands (May 2023)

So, what is Hell? Hell in the Cayman Islands is a small field of very jagged rocks. They look a bit like volcanic rock, which is one explanation for how the place got its name. A British official visiting the island long ago is said to have exclaimed, "My God, this is what Hell must look like!"

Actually the rock is limestone and dolomite. It was eroded into these jagged shapes not by wind or rain but by being eaten away by algae. The algae dissolves the calcium in limestone (limestone is calcium carbonated, CaCO3) leaving mostly dolomite. Scientifically this process is called phyto-karstification.

After touring the relatively small field of rocks we walked back out to the gift shops and post office. We bought a few postcards with pictures of Hell and mailed them to religious relatives so they'd be date-canceled as officially from Hell. 🔥😈🤣

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Our trek to Carson Falls near Mt. Tam last Sunday was the second of three great hikes we did in one day. Our choice to stay at a hotel somewhat nearby in Mill Valley the night before really paid off.

Carson Falls is one of the celebrated "Three Cs" in the Mt. Tamalpais watershed. There's Cataract Falls, which we hiked in the morning; Carson Falls; and Cascade Falls. We've been to each of them at least twice before.

I don't know that we've been to Carson Falls on a day like today, though. Compared to the wet, lush, rain forest ambience of hiking Cataract Falls this morning— which is absolutely the best way to enjoy it— our hike to Carson has a completely different vibe. The patchy morning clouds burned off as we drove back a few miles to the trailhead, revealing everything for miles beneath a clear, blue sky. And where the Carson Falls trail climbs straight into a narrow, wet canyon, the trail to Carson Falls begins with a long, gradual ascent over Pine Mountain.

Across Pine Mountain toward Carson Falls (Apr 2023)

Once we passed the fake taco truck at the trailhead we crested a small rise and could see the rest of Pine Mountain ahead of us. I don't know that we've been here on such a clear day before. Usually it's been overcast, even a bit rainy. The last time we were here it sleeted on us!

Gloomy weather shortens your perspective. You can't see that far off, so you focus on what's around you. Today felt totally different because we could see so much around us and so far ahead. Like that hilltop a mile away in the picture... surely we weren't going to have to hike all the way up that, right? It never felt like we hiked so far before. Alas, yes, that's where we'd have to go. At least it's beautiful and not sleeting today.

Great Views atop Pine Mountain en route to Carson Falls (Apr 2023)

The distance views atop Pine Ridge were unexpected and amazing. At first we could only see Pine ahead of us and Tam behind us. As we slowly climbed to the top the views got better and better. Tam remained in the picture (the flattened triangular peak a bit in from the right) and soon we could see the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge crossing the north bay, the towers of downtown Oakland almost 30 miles away, and even the double peak of Mt. Diablo ( bit in from the left) in the hazy distance 50 miles away.

The trail narrows to descend to Carson Falls (Apr 2023)

We know the way to Carson Falls. We've stood at unmarked crossroads in the drizzling rain enough in the past to have committed it to memory. It continued to amuse me, though, that while I remembered all the turns I forgot how far the climb up Pine Ridge was. Soon enough, though, it was time to start heading down the other side. We turned from Pine Ridge Road (a blocked-off fire road) to Oatley Ridge Road then met the narrow foot trail down into the canyon for Carson Falls.

This is a steep section leading down to the falls. It was coming up this steep part years ago that it sleeted on us. Ahh, fond memories!

Wildflowers near Carson Falls (Apr 2023)

Another thing I don't particular recall from hiking in crummy weather in the past is wildflowers on the trail. There weren't exactly a ton of them out here Sunday, but there were some. Deep in the shade we saw a few of these. They're... purple flowers. I suck at identifying flowers. And I'd look it up, but Google sucks at identifying flowers, too.

Update: I remembered the reason things don't grow well along most of Pine Ridge is the serpentine. There's a lot of serpentine rock in this ridge. It's poisonous to most growing things, so the plants that thrive here are only the hardiest varieties and even they don't grow big.

Update 2: This flower is an iris. I figured that out not by searching on characteristics like "purple flower with 3 and 6 petals" (which I tried, unsuccessfully) but by trying a few guesses of flower names and finding pictures that match. Several small patches of wildflowers grow on a hillside where there's little exposed serpentine (see note above).

Stay tuned, we're almost to the falls!

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Saturday morning we got up early to visit Sierra Vista Open Space in the mountains east of San Jose. Good news: We had a great hike overlooking the city. Bad news: It was kind of short. We were back at the car by 9:15. What to do? How about a two-fer! We refilled our water bottles at the car and went hiking on a trail on the other side of the road.

Sierra Vista Open Space in San Jose (Mar 2023)

This is the Aquila Trail. At times in the past we've hiked it it's been a riot of a wildflowers. Today, not so much. In fact pretty much not at all. Wildflowers bloom when there's good rain followed by a few weeks of warm weather. This season we've had tons of rain— so the first key ingredient is there— but not yet the warm weather. Maybe in another few weeks these hillsides will look totally different.

Sierra Vista Open Space in San Jose (Mar 2023)

The Aquila Trail is a short loop, about 1.2 miles around. Together with our hiking on the Kestrel Trail earlier we're hiking maybe 3 miles total. On the one hand that's not much. On the other hand it's pretty good for getting a hike in before errands and lunch.

Sierra Vista Open Space in San Jose (Mar 2023)

Though there aren't wildflowers out today we enjoy the Aquila Trail for its remote feel. With vistas like this we can imagine we're well into the wilderness... even thought Silicon Valley with its millions of people is just over our shoulder.

Fossils in Sierra Vista Open Space, San Jose (Mar 2023)

On today's trek we noticed something we've overlooked before: fossils! Some of the rocks up here bear the imprint of what looks like organisms from an ancient sea floor.

Like I said, the hikes were both short. We were back at the car by 10am. The parking lot was already full, and rangers were aggressively turning people away. I'm glad we arrived at 8:15. We'll have to come early again when we return for wildflower season!



canyonwalker: Walking through the desert together (2010) (through the desert)
North Las Vegas Travelog #6
Valley of Fire State Park - Sun, 19 Feb 2023, 9:30am

Today was another day of getting up early. I'd say Ugh to getting up at 6:45am twice in a row on the weekend— tomorrow it'll be three in a row when we do the same on the holiday Monday— but it's for a good cause. We're enjoying the great outdoors on our trip to Las Vegas. Especially now, in February, when temperatures in the desert are moderate. Highs are forecast around 63-65° F (17-18° C).

Our trip today is out to Nevada's Valley of Fire State Park. It's about an hour north of Las Vegas. A small, brown sign next to one of the exits on I-15 is all that tells travelers zooming past at 80mph that there's something here. I remember the first time zooming past that sign 20+ years ago, thinking, "Looks like nothing's here." And I was right.... Nothing is there, along the highway. But nestled in a valley 10 miles east is something amazing.

Roadside scenery at Valley of Fire, Nevada (Feb 2023)

The brightly colored sandstone of Valley of Fire is an ancient seabed. 200 million years ago this desert was an inland ocean. 50 millions years ocean floor rose, the water disappeared, and the sandstone began to be carved away by wind and rain.

These sheer cliffs and spires that put the red rocks on beautiful display are the result of geologic faults. Forces from deep within the earth caused the rock on one side of the fault line to rise and the other side to fall. The erosive forces of wind and rain have continued to carve away at the soft rock.

Roadside scenery at Valley of Fire, Nevada (Feb 2023)

It's a good thing digital film is cheap because I've shot more than a roll worth before even getting to our first hiking trail today.

Roadside scenery at Valley of Fire, Nevada (Feb 2023)

And most of that roll+ worth of digital film I've shot through the car's windshield or by holding my hand out the window while driving. It's so beautiful here it's just not possible to stop for everything!
canyonwalker: Driving on the beach at Oceano Dunes (4x4)
5 Days in the Desert travelog #20
Yermo, CA - Mon, 26 Dec 2022, 2pm

Today is shaping up to be as much about the driving as the hiking. But that's okay because the driving is purposefully scenic. The old Native American prayer, In Beauty I Walk, doesn't mean literally walking. It means journeying, as in the journey through life. Sometimes that journey is behind the wheel.

We finished up driving the Mojave Road through Afton Canyon by exiting at Basin Road, about 8 miles east of where we entered. The canyon, with its steep, colorful walls, had petered out by that point anyway. There were no more amazing side canyons like Spooky Canyon or the way nicer unnamed canyon. But it's still interesting to drive through a river. Here's a quick video:


Once back on dry, paved land we headed back toward Barstow, not to call it a day yet but merely to get lunch closer to town before heading back out across the desert. We ate at EddieWorld in Yermo. Yes, it's a bit tourist-trappy, but their food's pretty good and they have the biggest selection of stuffed animals I've ever seen under one roof. We bought a pizza, a chicken fingers basket, a couple of drinks, and a couple of sheep.

Up next: we'll head out east again to drive/hike at Pisgah Crater.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
5 Days in the Desert travelog #18
Afton Canyon, CA - Mon, 26 Dec 2022, 12:30pm

We set out today for a combination of wheeling and hiking in Afton Canyon. My goals upon planning this adventure were threefold:

  1. Cross the Mojave River— kind of to prove to myself I could (DONE)
  2. Explore the beauty of Afton Canyon in general (IN PROGRESS)
  3. Find & explore Spooky Canyon (TO DO)

An important aspect of adventure, perhaps the defining thing about adventure, is the unknown. It's the discovery of something you couldn't plan that turns out to be really enjoyable. In yesterday's hike at Kelso Dunes it was hiking along the dune ridges— and narrating travel videos— on my way down. Today it's been finding & exploring an unnamed side canyon.

An unnamed side canyon off Afton Canyon (Dec 2022)

We haven't made it to Spooky Canyon yet but we just found & explored this unnamed side canyon. We were able to navigate it (on foot!) a lot farther up than we expected. What a beautiful serendipity.

I had so much fun making those little videos at Kelso Dunes yesterday I did it again with this canyon. This time, though, I stitched all the shorts together into a single, longer video.


Join me in a walk back down from the top of the narrows!


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